Henrikki Matilainen

Or Madonna Flash. Have visions of climbing something here. But no logbook to support this.

Or Madonna Flash. Have visions of climbing something here. But no logbook to support this.

Or Madonna Flash. Have visions of climbing something here. But no logbook to support this.

At least I think it’s a flash, as I don’t have a any memory of even trying this.

Generally I’m a fan of low traverses. But this one was two low. Two separate cruxes, but good rests or easier climbing before, between, and after.

Sharp, as in spikey. Nice moves though.

Could be even easier, as there are a few nice holds lurking under the lichen.

A few goes to sort out the start beta.

Assis from Linnunpesä, but Dropped off from a tad higher than a stand-start of Koppinouse. Which happened to resemble a waterfall.

Climbs better than expected.

This climbed really nicely… so nicely infact that I had to re-climb this. And the heel hook was money.

Nice start and middle part, top in the other hand was less so.

Quite nice with my more direct beta. Required both strength and precision. Start with left, fiddle feet on reach for the slot/pinch with right. Then cruise the top.

Climbed something here, pretty much where the line is drawn and eliminated the lovely left areta. What a weather we had today… crisp conditions, blitz of snow and even some sun.

Started without the pedelstal which made perfect sense. Nice techie power problem.

Felt hard ’cause it was sustained for a pebblehugger. Nearly died from fatique like five times.

A few goes and completely different beta than Jykä and I’d wager most of other ascents… in fact I omitted the obvious mini-fridge hold completely. #sessioseiskat

Somewhat off-balance and tricky start. But quite nice when all the positions were figured out.

Jamtastic and nice slopers.

D’oh, as name implies as downclimb.

I liked this a lot.

Nice intro/warmup for this pebble. Topout would have been spicy had I not noticed the ticked crimp.

Really nice. Started on the right with a crammed heelhook, but no reachy moves.

Old starting hold full of yellow paint and slick as hell. Starting from the areta with right actually makes the start feel harder or more powerful. Also rather reachy. For a short arse and ”new” startinghold plus sequence it feels harder.

Felt almost harder than Kaspin… and I’m good on tiny crimps… maybe it was the weather.

A few goes to sort out the start and How to an approach this. #sessioseiskat

Assis

First recorded ascent, might have climbed this eons ago... or not. Semi-clean now, after I scrubbed the top groove clean.

A stiff and tall one. Luckily the crux for me is low down, but the upper slap is a tad heady. Lovely, tricky moves sadly on somewhat gritty rock, hence not a *** problem. Super clean now, Anabasis, Allegro and Korkkiruuvi also cleaned to some extent. Go get it.

Olipahan taistelu näillä klähmä-keleillä.

FA. Climbed quite a few versions of this, but the easiest version uses the diagonal ramp, and is the most natural line. Originally eliminated the ramp, and that version is a tad harder… but eliminates are stupid so people are free to Climb it and Note it in their comments… but lets keep things natural and only list lines, that ain’t idiotic ehoboostin’ eliminates.

FA, took a bit of cleaning… about 80kg worth I guess. Has a few really nices moves and holds, plus they should also stay on the wall. Start proved harder than initially though.

First go, but shares the end with a route that I climbed some minutes earlier.

A few goes.

First go, but have climbed a lot of routes here.

First go, but have climbed other routes here.

A few goes. #sessioseiskat

Half a dozen tries. #sessioseiskat

A few tries, but might have fiddled with this a long time ago. Since I really did not even remember had I tried this or not, I’m counting it as #sessioseiskat. Upper beta directly to pinch with left hand.

Shares the topout that I had already climbed.

Really nice climb, but finding the holds was a tad hard… everything was coated in chalk. Might be soft or not, I can see taller climbers having an advantage on this (’cept for the topout). About a dozen tries. #sessioseiskat

Took a few goes to sort out a good beta for the assis. Then it was a casual cruise to the top. Nice start for the outdoor season with a casual #sessioseiskat send.

First go, but shares holds with Valiant. And also whilst cleaning the top holds on a rope, tried a few body positions.

Season starter. Took a few goes to sort out the body positions and which holds to use.

Harjailin joskus kesällä yön about puhtaaksi (no ne otteet mitä näin). Myöhemmin hiffasin, et lienee se Nugentin mainitsema linja. Helteellä ja ilman nahkoja tuntui mahottamalta. Nyt meni melko kivuttomasti. Hieno linja. Assis on ahdas tai eliminaatti, kun järkevin linja menis ylös isoa halkeamaa ja lienee merkittävästi helpompi. Ständi samasta säälittävästä vasurin kahden sormen jalkaotteesta ja oikee hienosta slotti-saidarista. Siten hiukan vasemmalle hienoon slouppi-pokettiin ja siitä sitten ihan hienoilla pienillä otteilla.

Hieno, mutta todellakin morpho. Hiukankin vähemmän vartta ja saa kurkotella jostain muualta kuin startti hyllyltä/halkeamalta. Tosin kyllä ne moovit mahollisuuta lyhkäsemmillekin näyttää, vaan vaikeampia.

Really nice moves to get established on the ledge. Many ways to skin the cat, to do the start.

Taitaa olla inan morpho linja. Assis ei oo lyhkäselle paha, mutta ylhäällä onkin sitten ikävämpää. Tais olla #sessioseiska

Olipahan taas taistelu, hyvä muistutus miksi vihaan työstämistä. Vaatii kaks sessiota ku ei nahat riittäneet ekalla kertaa. Sendi-sessiossa pitikin sitten valmiiksi suunniteltu beetta toiminutkaan jostain syystä pari viikkoa myöhemmin.

The most obvious line here. Why on earth it was not climbed, instead some forced and contrived lines can be found on either side? FA?

Not for my hips… and some crappy holds on it (plus the classic sh!tstart). But this one also had some nice moves… quite bipolar.

First go, but as the top is shared with the more obvious crack line, rp it is.

Not a great line, but has a few nice moves. Cleaned on TR and tried the holds and positions. First go from the ground.

First go, but not a flash as I cleaned it on a tr going up. FA I think.

Quite a Tough one, especially since part of the holds were hiding under a thick blanket of moss… mostly clean now though, go get it…

Started left on low foot block/crimp and right on the middle undercling/pinch. Still a tad hard due to the downhill slope.

Actually pretty cool moves at the start, to a nice line. Not as shitty as the name implies.

Nicer than the dogleg original. Same grade.

Käytännössä #sessioseiska, hiplasin vähän otteita josku aikanaan ja tuomitsin liian raastavaksi. Nyt sitten meni ihmeen kivuttomasti.

Took quite a few tries to sort out a usable beta, as pretty much every hold was soaking wet and took effort to make ’em dry enough to climb.

Took a few more tries After the stand to sort out the wet starting beta.

Started from the left sidepull, but right on the areta at the same height from compression (where the second move of the assis goes).

Liedown starts are the best.

Difficult to know where the line goes and What is eliminated. Started right on tiny crimp snd left on slouper. Went up without using the good areta or the ledge on the left.

2nd ho I think. Nice line.

Tough start to easier, but rattly vuxenklätring.

Really nice line, despite the lack of height. Loved the kneebar.

I guess you could call it a flash, but since I climbed the top some years ago, first-go and redpoint it shall be.

Crammed assis from a sidepull below the lip and sloper on the lip. Felt like a tussle. The higher you start the easier it gets.

Pretty size dependent start. Might be actually easier since just before this trip I managed to squash my right middlefinger between a log and a stone… and yesterday took a tumble on a rocky beach and properly hurt the muscles on my right forearm. But I’ll take the grade and #sessioseiskat anyway as the grades do feel consistant here (If Sometimes soft).

A few goes, started from a crimp (the one of Kanel) and low sidepull crimp (for the right). Also climbed up more to the left. That felt like ~6C. Climbing more on the right will make it a lot easier by the looks of it. Like 3 or 4 goes.

Somewhat tricky start, albeit I tried a harder lower start first.

Finally. Have tried this on a few different session. First it felt impossible (bad connies and skin), then nearly got it but rain ended that sesh… then felt impossible again. Now connies were good, skin less so but fougth my way up it… topped perhaps a tad too far tight though.