Jonas Broo

The original start is super dirty so took the start of the Hans Dülfer route

Very Kustavi-like. Hard work!

You definitely need to eliminate something to make this 6B

A but stupid eliminate

Really nice, strange that nobody had climbed this before.

Did it as a sit start and topout from right edge

Pitkät pystyy klippaamaan ankkurin suoraan hyllystä mutta pitää kyllä kiivetä loppuun asti

Nice and well protected

Really nice!

Easy start, bit tricky top

Led to set up top rope for the kids.

Led to set up top rope for the kids.

Vaikka oli video meni muutama yrkkä ennen kuin löysi itselle oikeat käsien asennot

Olis mennyt nopeammin mutta luotin jonkun muun tekemään jalkatikkimerkkiin. Vähän eri betalla meni sitten ekalla.

Tää reitti vaatisi hiukan harjausta. Lipesin ekalla toppisammaleelta.

Käyttäen vasemmalla feissillä olevaa kahvaa

A 60 meter rope is not enough to reach the ground but the downclimb is easy. Just make sure to have a knot at the end of the rope.

Best easy route of the crag. Be sure to extend the first draw with a long sling to reduce drag.

Trusting that flimsy ladder is the crux of the route

Really had to dial the beta to be able to do this one

Anchor can be reached directly or by making a loop to the right using the big undercling flake.

Nice powerful moves.

Beta piti olla just eikä melkein

Käyttämällä saideri vasemmalle kädelle ekan otteen jälkeen

1st go. Following the wave with my hands.

Sit start. Probably harder if you’re under 165 cm or so.

With the jug for the left hand (just out of reach for shorter people)

Broke off a nubbin on the first go

Real mental battle for me. I guess that’s what you get for climbing alone with only one pad.

Kicked off a loose hold at the top but this only revealed another loose hold

Did use a good hold on the left wall, but for it to be 6B both walls need to be eliminated.

Didn’t feel harder than kommunisti

I think combining these into one “low start” route would be better, the sit is quite awkward as you’re sitting down slope.

Using face holds only, not even edge of arete

Sit start felt quite unnecessary

2nd go

At the limit of my crimp strength,so 6C could be around right

Hard to read, but even when I knew the moves it felt well worthy of an upgrade to 6B

Dabbed on the pad on the first go

2nd try

Tried to make it too hard for myself

Sit doesn’t add anything

Sit doesn’t add anything

Kiipesin kruxin viistosti oikealle (ilman oikeaa kräkkiä) mutta niin että nousin kräkin viereiselle hyllylle sitten huilaamaan. Lisäksi pistin slingillä yhden lisäjatkon ankkurin alle.

Really good for the grade

The obvious direct version remains a open project

Not a very good route as you need to keep doing unintuitive moves to keep you away from the inviting crack.

Boulder alulla

Oikein mainio

I clipped the piton. Did not fall on it.

1st go

Put an extended draw on the second to last bolt to avoid rope drag

FA

Quite dab prone route

1st go

I’ve climbef this before but forgot to tick

For tall people this is not much of a route but if you’re below 175 cm or so it has a few decent moves.

Nice!

Can’t recommend this. The key middle jug is coming off into someones face at any moment.

Menin betavideon betalla (ilman pikkukrimppiä ylempänä vasurille) vaikkakin tuo eka muuvi reittikuvauksen mukaan ehkä ei ole sallittu?

Had some length issues at the crux but eventually found a beta that worked for me.

Probably always wet

A crystal broke on the first try

Would benefit from more traffic

1st go

Reachy for a 173 cm guy

1st go but shares so much with other routes

Mustaksi sprayattu sider parin metrin korkeudella lähtöotteena

Good laybacking

1st go but had climbed the other variation earlier

Some loose flakes on the route so watch out

doesn't really add anything compared to lakunaru

Kustavi Derby 2022, seconded it.

Kustavi Derby 2022

Kustavi Derby 2022

Kustavi Derby 2022

Kustavi Derby 2022

Kustavi Derby 2022

Kustavi Derby 2022

Kustavi Derby 2022

Kustavi Derby 2022

Kustavi Derby 2022

Kustavi Derby 2022

Kustavi Derby 2022

Kustavi Derby 2022

Kustavi Derby 2022

Kustavi Derby 2022

Kustavi Derby 2022

Kustavi Derby 2022

Had seconded it during the previous Kustavi Derby in 2019, this time I led it.

Kustavi Derby 2022

done as boulder

Not so hard but the topout is a bit spicy without a spotter

Leading this would be scary shit

Had to abort when I took my skwamas and feet started hurting too much. Did it then with my Miuras.

My trad stamina is not what it used to be

Superb

Not a chimney

Definitely not harder than the similar Extended Penis Extension in Koivusaari

Likainen

The sitstart feels quite unnecessary

Beware, top hold is loose

Perfect hand crack

Nice!

Yess, completed the whole orange circuit, 37/37 routes, and a few extras.