Gandalf, 5
A Lofoten classic up the highest part of the cliff with three good pitches - interesting, varied and well protected. Start up the left-facing groove behind a tree and a large boulder at the right side of the face. FA. Arild Meyer, Kjell Ove Storvik, Brynjar Tollefsen 5.1978. Not by today's standard route. They climbed left around the pitch 2 overhang, then aid climbed straight through the crack above the Eagle's Nest ledge. Later parties added the now traditional second and third pitches and free climbed the Eagle's Nest finish.
Added by
Antti Turunen
Grade opinions
Ascents from public tick lists
Per Karlsson
1995-08-03
On-sight
4+
Jussi Salojärvi
2001-07-01
On-sight
4+
Toni Rasse Ruokonen
2003-08-20
On-sight
4+
Juha Mustonen
2004-07-22
Top rope
Johan Gille
2007-07-17
On-sight
Public to-do list entries
Kakkostelin reitin yliksessä kipeän polven kanssa. Ekalla pätkällä jouduin vetämään camusta, kun polvi ei kestänyt jammivääntöä. Seuraavalla kerralla puhtaasti ja liidaten.
