Jonas Broo

Mainio!

Koitin tätä aikaisemmin kun oli märkää ja likainen. Nyt oli ihan eri meininki!

Kuivaa ja täydellinen kitka

In the scorching sun

Not sure why there are two bolts beside each other half way up

En tiedä mitä tässä oli timanttista ;) sateen jälkeen oli limainen.

Soft. Good for the grade!

Soft. Good for the grade!

Pitkät pystyy klippaamaan ankkurin suoraan hyllystä mutta pitää kyllä kiivetä loppuun asti

Really nice!

Easy start, bit tricky top

Led to set up top rope for the kids.

Led to set up top rope for the kids.

Best easy route of the crag. Be sure to extend the first draw with a long sling to reduce drag.

Anchor can be reached directly or by making a loop to the right using the big undercling flake.

Kiipesin kruxin viistosti oikealle (ilman oikeaa kräkkiä) mutta niin että nousin kräkin viereiselle hyllylle sitten huilaamaan. Lisäksi pistin slingillä yhden lisäjatkon ankkurin alle.

Put an extended draw on the second to last bolt to avoid rope drag

Had some length issues at the crux but eventually found a beta that worked for me.

A crystal broke on the first try

1st go but had climbed the other variation earlier

Had to abort when I took my skwamas and feet started hurting too much. Did it then with my Miuras.

Date not exact, could be one or two weeks earlier also but I know I was at Falkberget this day ;)

Date not exact, could be one or two weeks earlier also but I know I was at Falkberget this day ;)

Not so long but very nice moves

Nice birthday present. Awesome route!

2nd go, slipped on first try

3rg go, slipped twice at the same spot...

Good kids route

Nice birthday present!

Nice mantels and high feet

Got shortroped on the os attempt

Finally!

Not any harder than mind your step, just dirtier.

1st go

Fantastic wolve’s head on route

2nd go

A bit loose, I knocked off a rock

Nice and technical.

2nd go

Crux is getting off the ground. Far too many good rests to be 7a.

A bit hard to read, but not that hard once you know the moves.

Bit of an eliminate, this route.

6a if staying strictly on the bolt line

What a gem of a route!

2nd go

Set the rope for the kids

Team os with Erik. 9 pitches, I led the even numbered ones. Total climbing time 2,5 hours, from base to base 5 hours.

2nd go

Nice, allows for lots of different beta.

did both variations, the right more direct one is slightly harder. Left variant is maybe 6a or 6a+.

Hold broke to the right. Did an easier variation with exit to the left, same end as Asteroidi.

too cold hands & feet to onsight

Nice and technical. Middle bolt hard to clip unless you preplace a long draw there.

One move wonder, it's a nice move for sure.

airy

bit polished

6b?

Finally! Now i never have to go to Rollarit again!

not many 6a:s this steep in Finland

Props to the FA for first-class cleaning

could be protected with gear as well

Shares most of the route with "Direct Hit", start is just a bit different and slightly harder

Actually quite nice

misread the sequence. With better beta on the 2nd go it was not that bad.

One hold near the first bolt will come off quite soon

Nice powerful moves

Crazy good friction

6c no way

Must be friggin hard to onsight

This took way too long for me. Shows that I suck on overhangs. Three sessions and five goes on lead.

solo

anchor placed quite high if you are short

a bit polished

very nice

bit sharp

first pitch felt hard. Not too inspiring a route. I led p 1 & 3.

as good as a 5c+ can get

bolts not confidence inspiring

in the scorching sun

one move wonder

Actually I think this could be hard and a scary lead for a small kid

Nice jughaul

Like gym climbing: great holds everywhere!

scorching hot on the upper section

stopped at Tuomiopäivän Sävärit's anchor

Would have got 1 or 2 stars, were it not for the bolts and the anchor halfway up the wall

Bolted crack. The line would also be more logical without the bolts

short guys like me need to do another move

10 pitches (~400 meters), led all except 3 & 5. Fantastic day out! 7 hours incl. lunch break on the ledge.

cruxy

super friction

5 pitches, linked & led 1-2 and 4-5

1st pitch only

1st pitch only

1st pitch only

2 pitches

2 pitches

hard to read

with pads

Team os: 3 pitches, I led p 1&3

Team os: 3 pitches, I led p 1&3

misleading name

one move wonder

quite a hard start

2nd ascent