Aarni Velhonoja

upean moniulotteinen

pintsistä heilautus hyllyyn?

kutsuva linja. poistuminen kiipeilyä hankalampaa

w/Joonas ja Akseli

lenkkareis

lenkkareis

Erityisen holistinen haasteellisuus, joka sopi mainiosti kaverin kanssa jaettavaksi. Kiitos edeltäjälle putsauksesta. Nyt on kesäkasvustot poistettu ja otteetkin lähmitty (sori), siitä vaan saittaamaan! Pro2/3.

kiva kun oikeesti hönkii kylmää kuumana päivänä.

Ensimmäinen lysti päättyi lynkkaukseen. Alku pistelee, loppu rahisee.

Kutsuva ja omaperäinen. Jatkuvuudesta lisätähti.

Lajissaan ihan kelpo pätkä. Bongattu kuivana sadekuuron jäljiltä.

variation onsight. definitely harder than the original.

Classic for a reason. 2nd go. Incredible how different the route feels after working out the sequences.

nice fingery style for the grade

Reitti tuntuu suosivan sopivasti halkeamamönkimistä jyrkimmässä kohdassaan. Omilla mittasuhteillani löytyi hyvä tyyli. Silti työläs.

oikein klassinen hyvänmielen 6b+

reading the comments kinda ruined my os lol. not a bad route, just f*in hard for the grade :D

An approximate line using the easiest holds. Standstart.

Start from sidepull crimps on both sides of the bulgy arete and climb straight up or slightly to the left.

Jugs and hand jams.

Diagonal slab line that starts from Big Red Machine and ends in Tobago Gays.

The burlier brother of Tobago Gays.

Obvious thin hands line on the rightmost side of the crack sector.

extra star for pure aesthetics

2nd go

2nd go

as sit start

Hyviä pikkupiissejä ja pari kivaa muuvia, mutta hyllyn jatkuva läsnäolo nostaa panoksia ja vie huomiota kiipeilyltä, siitä yksi tähti miinusta

tr 3 years ago. felt adventurous in a good way today!

2nd go. Funny moves, even funnier placements. Eliminated the face crack of Lepakkomies, that was probably the point. As a whole, maybe not quite as nice as Lepakkomies, but still worth two stars. A unique route. Kvarnby keeps on delivering.

Slight runout for the last horizontal break, but with the right gear below I think it's ok. Can't really recommend this though. Direct topout (apparently nicer). Got so much unsolicited beta I hesitate to call this OS.

Fun and varied. Four quick sessions on the way to and from Norway. Straight outta tent basically, no warm-up, and just before the rain. Kneebars are simply OP, I feel like I'm finally starting to understand them.

Awkward and strenuous. Meni tunteisiin :D

A year long distant obsession finally over. Turning all the fears of the unknown into knowledge with gradual exposure and patience. Climbed with the original(?) start, the thin crack next to Tapir. The variation to the left (by the rowan bush) that I've seen people use is slightly easier and shortens the line by a few meters.

Perfect crimpy layback moves. Top seeps a little after rain but crucial holds stay dry.

technical mantle moves on perfect friction, what's not to like!

First bolt preclipped since I had no gear with me. After second last clip went right for the crescent moon looking hold. Enjoyed this one a lot, the whole crag is really nice:)

looks short but feels plenty long :D

Led all. P1 is nice. P2 groove (exit) gives the grade. w/A

packs a punch! top seems to get partly wet in heavy rain/seepage but it's still totally climbable

two kneepads would've been extra nice to have for this, but even one helped a lot

Fun!

Intense! 🤌

Was pretty certain I'd os this, but then as I climbed the déjà-vu came. That's what you get for toproping!

hyvä hoitaa pois alta heti aamusta!

Aluks tokana, sitten liidi. Pari koloa putsasin laskeutuessa kiila-avaimella ja löytyipä samalla hyvät piissit koko pätkälle. Ei apuja ruotsalaisilta. Upea reitti, oikein tasaista menoa. Edit: tarkemman toposyynin jälkeen näyttäisi siltä, että lopetus menikin Jojona. Tuskin vaikuttaa greidiin...?

pehmeä miehuus

Ihan perhanan hieno reitti/trädielämys. Pitkän pohdinnan jälkeen uskalsin lähteä saittaamaan (MacLeodin etikalla eka piissi) ja tipuin aivan lopusta, kun jammi yllättäen korkkasi. Tokalla puhtaasti. Hyvä varmistettavuus mielestäni, joskin aika tiuhaan tuli kylvettyä kamaa vain omaksi iloksi. Jos tämä on 6c+, niin Lepakkomiehen frendi on 6c. Yläköysidowngreidit jättäisin omaan arvoonsa.

loose start (preclip could be nice), reachy but very fun top

Tätä tultiin Helsingistä asti ihailemaan! Hyvillä mielin sai kerrankin antaa saittiyrkän ja tuli pari kelpo pannuakin otettua samalla. Seuraavalla liidillä palaset loksahti riittävän hyvin paikalleen, eli ne kaikkein timanttisimmat betat jäi varmaan hieromatta esiin. Eka puhdas trädiseiska! Yeah so it's ok, 2nd go soft

lapsilukko alussa, mut pädi teki tästä kivan

One TR round to check the moves/protection. Offsets are nice to have for this, but not strictly necessary IMO. I ended up placing so many pros I almost messed up my lead attempt. The route goes in the sun at about 3pm.

os but have climbed pintahiki, nimetön and sista solstrålen before

in the end staying on the face between the shelf and the vertical crack of the 6a+ (the star is mostly for the handshake I got from J after flashing this)

What a meme of a route. Protected the start with a small pad.

luulin kiipeäväni Evää enkä lainkaan pitänyt greidiä softina

[ÄLÄ LUE JOS ET HALUA KAMABETAA] Hyvä aloitus trädikaudelle! Pädi alle ja sisään kolme piissiä, jotka pysty maasta käsin arvaamaan melko hyvin. Laskeutuessa tosin huomasin, että juuri ennen hyllyä oleva sormihalkeama, joka kutsuvasti imaisi viimeisen piissini, kumisikin rapaisen pahaenteisesti vasemmalta puoleltaan. Suosisin jatkossa siis toista paikkaa (en kuitenkaan pulttia) varmistukselle. Piissit järjestyksessä: #1 (ei välttämätön pädin kanssa), sin wallnut, pun alien (tämän voisi korvata varmaan esim kiilalla hyllyn reunaan)

hyvin se stemmas! vasen puoli reitistä kaipaisi teräsharjaa

Mental slab crux

Obvious crack line. A bit tricky at the top. A *decent route!

climbs well for the grade! liked this one a lot for some reason

a bit tricky, 2nd go

easier the more to the right you adjust your body position

With the two distinct cruxes, I think this definitely deserves 7a. For example Pyhimys went first go, but this needed two sessions. I do admit, however, that this route has always been in the sun when I tried it.

Very aesthetic and airy line! First time trying this four years ago had a complete meltdown. Then 1-2 years later went to clean it in the dark and retroflashed it, but sadly had three bolts preclipped. Now I can finally claim a clean ascent!

Delicate, but still easier than Stinger imo. I've wandered onto a part of this route some years ago while trying Vompatti - def can't take the OS, but I'll bargain for a flash 😄

nice name, ok route

There are probably hundreds of ways to do this... I used a sidepull to the left of the LH starting hold, making the move to the RH sloper feel much easier. This way there's no need for the really powerful heelhook on the RH starting hold. The OG big throw is probably at least 7A.

ss

not really easier than direct?

engaging all the way, especially with all the dusty moss at the top

Used the jug at the lip for the left hand, not sure if it's part of the line. Anyhow the top out is nice and technical, just gotta find the right foothold to use.

This line had been on my mind for a while now, happy I got to give it a good first go:) I found the holds to be way more secure than expected

Very delicate! Eliminated the big blob.

Awkward. Props to Jokinen for sending this in basically hiking boots.

aikas kipakka alku

easier than Savumuuri using the shittiest holds I could find

Topped out Homemuuri as written in the description and drawn in the topo. The grade holds well.

hard! or suboptimal beta. nicely shaped wall though

medium ball

slammed my left arm onto the annoyingly tall tree stump on my first try, can recommend padding it somehow

Double toehooks finally solved this long time project for me in one session. Ss with low right hand.

ihan vitun ahdasta nysväystä mielivaltaisilla eliminaateilla, ah koivusaari

A huge milestone for my fingers and my climbing in general. This line has been on my mind since the very first times I climbed outdoors.

Practically a winter ascent in early March. Great friction today, pieced this one together surprisingly quickly 🦋

What an amazing experience climbing this on the last day of the trip!! Had to pull every single trick I'd learned during my stay for the send. Pressure turned into gratitude:) grade opinion: delicious 😋

Awesome crux!!

Took a while to embrace the wandering nature of this deceptive but beautiful line. 3rd go.

My flash attempt for this was some of the smoothest and most confident climbing I've ever done, just made a silly mistake near the top after having passed both cruxes. Came back after a couple of weeks expecting a retro OS, but just got completely shut down. Had to go into full project mode, which felt frustrating. Still, I think this is one of the most beutiful 7b's I've climbed. Probably also a route that benefits greatly from both good skin and friction, which weren't quite there for my send.

felt tougher than the two 6c+ routes next to this

Great first burn, fell right before the anchor and couldn't repeat the moves afterwards, so found easier but kinda morpho beta for my 2nd go.

First 7b onsight! What an epic fight! 😀 Fun moves, good rests.

First 7b flash so must be soft of course. w/ Rikard

Med Rikards stilig live beta

Logging my ascent of El Chevo 7a here. Tough, slippery and crimpy crux at the bottom, felt just like home. Ending is fuuuun! 7a/+

Followed the bolt line too religiously and missed my os. 2nd go was cruising.

We were trying to warm-up on Magnetoresistencia but ended up here I think, because the topo doesn't show the lines share the same start. Still not sure what we climbed. w/Lewis

Got pretty close to sending this on my second go, but then ended up trying it for another two days before finally succeeding. A very mental route. If you're able to stay relaxed the whole way you will find yourself at the chains not even pumped. Such a great learning experience!

Täydellisellä betalla, Eliaksen sendisortseilla ja pituudella.

Stressful

Ok, that's enough stemming for one day. After a couple of bolts I just refused to fall. First of the grade :D

more intense than sendero, found amazing flow on this one!

Santa likes it wide! 🎅🏻

Callum's Christmas present for us was putting up the draws, what a gentleman.

Technical crux that is hard to read and a bit out of character with the rest of the line, but cool nonetheless. Difficult to grade. 2nd go.

would be 3 stars as a trad line

Hot, technical, polished

Tanskalaisten hiiviskelyn inspiroittamana – kutkuttavia asentoja!

Entertaining all the way! ~36 meters as os

Surely every 7a in Chorreras can't be this good.. Or can they? (os w/ draws on)

"hienoja kuplia" :D wat

Great positions and features. Just go for it!

Girthy!!

The short upper section is a technical and delicate dihedral - had an Elvis leg for the first time in a long time

18 bolts for 50m so a bit sparsely bolted. 1+2 is 6b

1+2

50m, crux is to leave the ledge

varied

soft if you can jam

lipesin topin jäisestä krimpistä ekalla yrkällä 😅

mielenkiintoista puuhaa ilman pädejä!

kenties kiven paras reitti

yllättävän hyvin kiipeää! pakkohan tälle on tähti antaa, kun lähimain ei juuri muuta löydy

kiva

Renessanssi taas märkänä, mutta kyllä nämäkin kruksit maistuvat. Pidennetyt jatkot ovat hyödyksi monessa kohdassa ja putsauksen voi tehdä talon tarjoamien sulkkareiden kautta. Toppaus suoraan lipan päälle.

2nd go. Starting both hands low on the arete, topping out via left side.

cool gaston! should have gone for the flash, sent first try from the bottom

starting right hand on the arete...?

awkward start and dirty top, otherwise ok

hyviä muuveja:) flässi oli tooodella lähellä!

Hyvin varmistettava mutta varmistaminen oli hankalaa :D

yläröity joskus, ihan ok reitti parin muuvin ajan

Jes! Eka 7b Suomessa ja kyllä sitä saikin hakea kolme sessiota ennen kuin pääsi kruksista läpi. Suora lopetus ja sitä ennen levon löytäminen nostaa ehdottomasti reitin laatua. Otsalamppukitkat <3

Ylistelty aiemmin. Cragsissa näkyvä Salamasta poikkeava lopetus ei mielestäni lisää laatua tai vaikeutta reittiin.

yläköysitelty aiemmin, soft?

yläköysitelty aiemmin

had climbed veripalvelu previously, so not the purest os feel. nicely sustained movement for such a short route. a good line.

Olipa hankala, taisin vähän aliarvioida reitin! Liukasta gabroa ja empivää kiipeilyä. Toppaus feissin puolelta.

climbed also the direct finger crack start, same difficulty but more technical

Sooo weird! Double mantle to foot bump finally made this doable, even soft

barefoot no pads :P

The direct topout is nice but makes the elimination even more convoluted than it already is and starts to flirt with the Crankfest '23 line. Nice moves tho.

climbed albarracin start first but I'm taking the flash goddamnit!

very nice mantle

so much fun! also did no hands version

Cryptic and technical, worth it if you have some skin to spare. Practice falls afterwards concluded that the bolting is fine, although harder catches might be a good idea in the beginning so you don't hit your (lighter) belayer. Also I would still pre-clip.

dynamic moves! 😀 ...to sharp holds 🙄 retroflash

märkä

valtavaa kidettä mutta kuitenkin limainen tuntuma, ei kenties ollut ihan kuiva

Tänään painettiin kovaa. Thorbjørn Enevoldkin antoi ohittaa. Reissun vika kiipeily w/J ja tyylillemme uskollisesti vedettiin käytännössä koko homma alppityylillä, väliankkureita hyödyntäen. Toinen puoliköysistä jäi tyhjänpantiksi reppuun, mutta räkin camuja sentään ulkoilutettiin ihan kokonaisvaltaisesti. Svartvatnetissa pulahtaminen kruunasi päivän. 4h kiipeilyä, 9h car2car.

Woah, the crux felt harder than Vårkåt's. Had to place protection higher than I'd like to due to deck being so near which likely affected the difficulty for me. Lead P2 and P3. Nice midnight send after Pan w/Joao.

P2 is climactic and just perfection, P3 is easier and quite uniquely technical

Good stuff! Lead p1 and p3. Awesome support from J, who had an epic battle on p2.

Couldn't see the right holds because I was so gripped, so went for the wrong sequence and missed my os. Only had 45min before Oppenheimer's premiere in Svolvær, so pressure was on for the next attempt, and it just barely proved to be successful. Great support from J and a Spanish couple.

Never took a fall, but redpoint feels more appropriate since I climbed around the crux of P6 the first time w/M. This time I went back w/J and lead all the 6+ pitches, with better protection and poise. (Pro: #6 for P2, #0,1 for P6 and micro-/peenuts for P6 and P7) The good climbing really only starts at P5 and ends after the first roof of P9, since rope drag/jamming is veeery hard to avoid. P1-4 (+ approach scramble) is not worth it, instead I'd recommend climbing Vestpillaren direct until the grassy ledge.

Fun times w/J. 8h car to car. [checked later: 2h appr., 45min break, 2,5h climbing, 45min break, 2h descent]

First go but climbed Tom Jones first, which helped. Climbs less like a pure finger crack than anticipated.

maybe the best line of the crag

lead 1+2 as link-up, 3rd pitch is the crux

Lead p1. The top half and exit of the groove was the crux for me. Grade felt more like 6+/7- for both p1 and p2 (the harder variation).

pure board climbing style with perfect landing, nice!

this took some figuring out

Climbs and protects disappointingly compared to how it looks. Tom Jones is waaaay better and not really more difficult.

Lofoottien Kantti. Excellent line. The airy bolting removed some of the enjoyment for me. Maybe next time I'll be more relaxed. Maybe not.

I was actually trying to climb this one, but still got lost :D

maneuvering all this with a backpack is the real crux, had to do some switching back and forth with how I carried it :D in hindsight I probably could have clipped it to my harness...

okay route, as long as you do the extension

Eggum anti-style. Cool overlapping slabs.

tää ois varmaan kiva ylärissä, liidi oli vähän turhan jäykkää menoa tänään

Tr flash but then only second rp try sent..🤔 Taking off the shirt was the key to this climb in the heat

tokalla

retroflash

Purest friction climbing I've done, nailing the beginning crux feels like magic everytime

paljon hankalampi kuin bensaa suonissa

Felt like a flash, but had climbed pieniä askelia first. Normally wouldn't be so anal about one shared bolt, but the beginning is kinda the crux.

Ei rahkeet riittäny saittiyrkkään, joten pari yläröintä alle ja sitten menoks. Lopulta osoittautui hyvin varmistettavaksi aivan alkua lukuunottamatta. Hienoa, teknistä kiipeilyä. PS the route stays dry in moderate rain

kauniisti katettuun pöytään

Olipa hieno reitti ja kesäilta. Pari tutkivaa yläriyrkkää ennen liidiä kun eka 6c trädi kyseessä. Vähän paremmalla itsekurilla piissien suhteen olisi voinut mennä ekalla rp yrkällä, mutta eipä haitannut lainkaan kiivetä uudestaan alusta loppuun.

Kiva linja, menisi varmaan myös trädinä jos alun varmistaisi patjalla 😄

1st go

2nd try felt much smoother

climbs better than it looks - my favorite from today

kävin hassaamassa saitin ylärissä. morpho/soft

viereinen tuntui kolmoselta, tämä ei. ellei sitten mene selkeästi vasemmalta.

Aika kiva. En kiivennyt parhaalla tyylillä, polvet hiukan kolisi. Ens kerralla sit pädin kanssa puhtaammin.

pretty sure I've climbed this before, clipping into bolts

more crimping than my finger was maybe ready for today, but happy to not slip on my way to the 3rd bolt

cool movement, well bolted

not beginner friendly until the first bolt

en tajunnut, että vasemmalla menee trädilinja, oli pultit niin lähellä halkeamaa. olisi ollut vähän väkinäistä yrittää pysyä vain feissillä.

tr warmup

tr warmup

what a ride

powerful tufarally

this rock is just...odd :D

varied and interesting for the grade

Confusing line to OS, bolts zigzagging for no apparent reason. Might like this more on a second go.