Vestpillaren Direct, 6b
(The West Pillar Direct) Although long called Vestpillaren this popular and brilliant climb only includes four pitches of the original line - but has become Lofoten's 'must-do' route, and it is worth the effort involved. The normal ascent time is 6 to 8 hours, although an efficient team can do it in less. Begin about 20m to the left of a steep water-washed gully filled with grass and some loose blocks, up the central one of three shallow corners. FA. Twelve days after doing the Westpillar Original, Arild returned with Finn Tore Bjørnstad and made the first ascent of the Normal avslutning (Normal Exit) 30.6.1978. The Slanting Corner pitch was first climbed by Helge Stokstad and Harald Henden in 1982. Arild and Finn Tore Bjørnstad did the Direct Start used here "sometime in the 1980s'.
Added by
Tony Hannukainen
Grade opinions
Ascents from public tick lists
Adam Kaijser
2000-06-10
On-sight
With Jakob Midander. Date correct within a month, I think.
From 22 years hindsight I remember it as the best mulitpitch I have ever done.
Don't remember witch pitches I led except the slanting corner, and know it was the 4 grade 6, the 6- and the last one; the only choss pitch, with 1 or 2 point of pro on the whole grass-gully-pitch, and belaying Jakob up just sitting down behind a rock.
Ville Strandman
2011-07-31
Red point
Rasmus Bølling
2014-08-17
On-sight
Public to-do list entries
Summer goal 2020?
