Aarni Velhonoja

upean moniulotteinen

Erityisen holistinen haasteellisuus, joka sopi mainiosti kaverin kanssa jaettavaksi. Kiitos edeltäjälle putsauksesta. Nyt on kesäkasvustot poistettu ja otteetkin lähmitty (sori), siitä vaan saittaamaan! Pro2/3.

kiva kun oikeesti hönkii kylmää kuumana päivänä.

Ensimmäinen lysti päättyi lynkkaukseen. Alku pistelee, loppu rahisee.

Kutsuva ja omaperäinen. Jatkuvuudesta lisätähti.

Lajissaan ihan kelpo pätkä. Bongattu kuivana sadekuuron jäljiltä.

variation onsight. definitely harder than the original.

Classic for a reason. 2nd go. Incredible how different the route feels after working out the sequences.

nice fingery style for the grade

Reitti tuntuu suosivan sopivasti halkeamamönkimistä jyrkimmässä kohdassaan. Omilla mittasuhteillani löytyi hyvä tyyli. Silti työläs.

oikein klassinen hyvänmielen 6b+

reading the comments kinda ruined my os lol. not a bad route, just f*in hard for the grade :D

Hyviä pikkupiissejä ja pari kivaa muuvia, mutta hyllyn jatkuva läsnäolo nostaa panoksia ja vie huomiota kiipeilyltä, siitä yksi tähti miinusta

tr 3 years ago. felt adventurous in a good way today!

2nd go. Funny moves, even funnier placements. Eliminated the face crack of Lepakkomies, that was probably the point. As a whole, maybe not quite as nice as Lepakkomies, but still worth two stars. A unique route. Kvarnby keeps on delivering.

Slight runout for the last horizontal break, but with the right gear below I think it's ok. Can't really recommend this though. Direct topout (apparently nicer). Got so much unsolicited beta I hesitate to call this OS.

Fun and varied. Four quick sessions on the way to and from Norway. Straight outta tent basically, no warm-up, and just before the rain. Kneebars are simply OP, I feel like I'm finally starting to understand them.

Awkward and strenuous. Meni tunteisiin :D

A year long distant obsession finally over. Turning all the fears of the unknown into knowledge with gradual exposure and patience. Climbed with the original(?) start, the thin crack next to Tapir. The variation to the left (by the rowan bush) that I've seen people use is slightly easier and shortens the line by a few meters.

Perfect crimpy layback moves. Top seeps a little after rain but crucial holds stay dry.

technical mantle moves on perfect friction, what's not to like!

First bolt preclipped since I had no gear with me. After second last clip went right for the crescent moon looking hold. Enjoyed this one a lot, the whole crag is really nice:)

looks short but feels plenty long :D

Led all. P1 is nice. P2 groove (exit) gives the grade. w/A

packs a punch! top seems to get partly wet in heavy rain/seepage but it's still totally climbable

two kneepads would've been extra nice to have for this, but even one helped a lot

Fun!

Intense! 🤌

Was pretty certain I'd os this, but then as I climbed the déjà-vu came. That's what you get for toproping!

hyvä hoitaa pois alta heti aamusta!

Aluks tokana, sitten liidi. Pari koloa putsasin laskeutuessa kiila-avaimella ja löytyipä samalla hyvät piissit koko pätkälle. Ei apuja ruotsalaisilta. Upea reitti, oikein tasaista menoa. Edit: tarkemman toposyynin jälkeen näyttäisi siltä, että lopetus menikin Jojona. Tuskin vaikuttaa greidiin...?

pehmeä miehuus

Ihan perhanan hieno reitti/trädielämys. Pitkän pohdinnan jälkeen uskalsin lähteä saittaamaan (MacLeodin etikalla eka piissi) ja tipuin aivan lopusta, kun jammi yllättäen korkkasi. Tokalla puhtaasti. Hyvä varmistettavuus mielestäni, joskin aika tiuhaan tuli kylvettyä kamaa vain omaksi iloksi. Jos tämä on 6c+, niin Lepakkomiehen frendi on 6c. Yläköysidowngreidit jättäisin omaan arvoonsa.

loose start (preclip could be nice), reachy but very fun top

Tätä tultiin Helsingistä asti ihailemaan! Hyvillä mielin sai kerrankin antaa saittiyrkän ja tuli pari kelpo pannuakin otettua samalla. Seuraavalla liidillä palaset loksahti riittävän hyvin paikalleen, eli ne kaikkein timanttisimmat betat jäi varmaan hieromatta esiin. Eka puhdas trädiseiska! Yeah so it's ok, 2nd go soft

lapsilukko alussa, mut pädi teki tästä kivan

One TR round to check the moves/protection. Offsets are nice to have for this, but not strictly necessary IMO. I ended up placing so many pros I almost messed up my lead attempt. The route goes in the sun at about 3pm.

os but have climbed pintahiki, nimetön and sista solstrålen before

in the end staying on the face between the shelf and the vertical crack of the 6a+ (the star is mostly for the handshake I got from J after flashing this)

What a meme of a route. Protected the start with a small pad.

luulin kiipeäväni Evää enkä lainkaan pitänyt greidiä softina

[ÄLÄ LUE JOS ET HALUA KAMABETAA] Hyvä aloitus trädikaudelle! Pädi alle ja sisään kolme piissiä, jotka pysty maasta käsin arvaamaan melko hyvin. Laskeutuessa tosin huomasin, että juuri ennen hyllyä oleva sormihalkeama, joka kutsuvasti imaisi viimeisen piissini, kumisikin rapaisen pahaenteisesti vasemmalta puoleltaan. Suosisin jatkossa siis toista paikkaa (en kuitenkaan pulttia) varmistukselle. Piissit järjestyksessä: #1 (ei välttämätön pädin kanssa), sin wallnut, pun alien (tämän voisi korvata varmaan esim kiilalla hyllyn reunaan)

hyvin se stemmas! vasen puoli reitistä kaipaisi teräsharjaa

With the two distinct cruxes, I think this definitely deserves 7a. For example Pyhimys went first go, but this needed two sessions. I do admit, however, that this route has always been in the sun when I tried it.

Very aesthetic and airy line! First time trying this four years ago had a complete meltdown. Then 1-2 years later went to clean it in the dark and retroflashed it, but sadly had three bolts preclipped. Now I can finally claim a clean ascent!

Delicate, but still easier than Stinger imo. I've wandered onto a part of this route some years ago while trying Vompatti - def can't take the OS, but I'll bargain for a flash 😄

nice name, ok route

Practically a winter ascent in early March. Great friction today, pieced this one together surprisingly quickly 🦋

What an amazing experience climbing this on the last day of the trip!! Had to pull every single trick I'd learned during my stay for the send. Pressure turned into gratitude:) grade opinion: delicious 😋

Awesome crux!!

Took a while to embrace the wandering nature of this deceptive but beautiful line. 3rd go.

My flash attempt for this was some of the smoothest and most confident climbing I've ever done, just made a silly mistake near the top after having passed both cruxes. Came back after a couple of weeks expecting a retro OS, but just got completely shut down. Had to go into full project mode, which felt frustrating. Still, I think this is one of the most beutiful 7b's I've climbed. Probably also a route that benefits greatly from both good skin and friction, which weren't quite there for my send.

felt tougher than the two 6c+ routes next to this

Great first burn, fell right before the anchor and couldn't repeat the moves afterwards, so found easier but kinda morpho beta for my 2nd go.

First 7b onsight! What an epic fight! 😀 Fun moves, good rests.

First 7b flash so must be soft of course. w/ Rikard

Med Rikards stilig live beta

Logging my ascent of El Chevo 7a here. Tough, slippery and crimpy crux at the bottom, felt just like home. Ending is fuuuun! 7a/+

Followed the bolt line too religiously and missed my os. 2nd go was cruising.

We were trying to warm-up on Magnetoresistencia but ended up here I think, because the topo doesn't show the lines share the same start. Still not sure what we climbed. w/Lewis

Got pretty close to sending this on my second go, but then ended up trying it for another two days before finally succeeding. A very mental route. If you're able to stay relaxed the whole way you will find yourself at the chains not even pumped. Such a great learning experience!

Täydellisellä betalla, Eliaksen sendisortseilla ja pituudella.

Stressful

Ok, that's enough stemming for one day. After a couple of bolts I just refused to fall. First of the grade :D

more intense than sendero, found amazing flow on this one!

Santa likes it wide! 🎅🏻

Callum's Christmas present for us was putting up the draws, what a gentleman.

Technical crux that is hard to read and a bit out of character with the rest of the line, but cool nonetheless. Difficult to grade. 2nd go.

would be 3 stars as a trad line

Hot, technical, polished

Tanskalaisten hiiviskelyn inspiroittamana – kutkuttavia asentoja!

Entertaining all the way! ~36 meters as os

Surely every 7a in Chorreras can't be this good.. Or can they? (os w/ draws on)

"hienoja kuplia" :D wat

Great positions and features. Just go for it!

Girthy!!

The short upper section is a technical and delicate dihedral - had an Elvis leg for the first time in a long time

18 bolts for 50m so a bit sparsely bolted. 1+2 is 6b

1+2

50m, crux is to leave the ledge

varied

soft if you can jam

Renessanssi taas märkänä, mutta kyllä nämäkin kruksit maistuvat. Pidennetyt jatkot ovat hyödyksi monessa kohdassa ja putsauksen voi tehdä talon tarjoamien sulkkareiden kautta. Toppaus suoraan lipan päälle.

awkward start and dirty top, otherwise ok

hyviä muuveja:) flässi oli tooodella lähellä!

Hyvin varmistettava mutta varmistaminen oli hankalaa :D

yläröity joskus, ihan ok reitti parin muuvin ajan

Jes! Eka 7b Suomessa ja kyllä sitä saikin hakea kolme sessiota ennen kuin pääsi kruksista läpi. Suora lopetus ja sitä ennen levon löytäminen nostaa ehdottomasti reitin laatua. Otsalamppukitkat <3

Ylistelty aiemmin. Cragsissa näkyvä Salamasta poikkeava lopetus ei mielestäni lisää laatua tai vaikeutta reittiin.

yläköysitelty aiemmin, soft?

yläköysitelty aiemmin

had climbed veripalvelu previously, so not the purest os feel. nicely sustained movement for such a short route. a good line.

Olipa hankala, taisin vähän aliarvioida reitin! Liukasta gabroa ja empivää kiipeilyä. Toppaus feissin puolelta.

Cryptic and technical, worth it if you have some skin to spare. Practice falls afterwards concluded that the bolting is fine, although harder catches might be a good idea in the beginning so you don't hit your (lighter) belayer. Also I would still pre-clip.

dynamic moves! 😀 ...to sharp holds 🙄 retroflash

märkä

valtavaa kidettä mutta kuitenkin limainen tuntuma, ei kenties ollut ihan kuiva

Tänään painettiin kovaa. Thorbjørn Enevoldkin antoi ohittaa. Reissun vika kiipeily w/J ja tyylillemme uskollisesti vedettiin käytännössä koko homma alppityylillä, väliankkureita hyödyntäen. Toinen puoliköysistä jäi tyhjänpantiksi reppuun, mutta räkin camuja sentään ulkoilutettiin ihan kokonaisvaltaisesti. Svartvatnetissa pulahtaminen kruunasi päivän. 4h kiipeilyä, 9h car2car.

Woah, the crux felt harder than Vårkåt's. Had to place protection higher than I'd like to due to deck being so near which likely affected the difficulty for me. Lead P2 and P3. Nice midnight send after Pan w/Joao.

P2 is climactic and just perfection, P3 is easier and quite uniquely technical

Good stuff! Lead p1 and p3. Awesome support from J, who had an epic battle on p2.

Couldn't see the right holds because I was so gripped, so went for the wrong sequence and missed my os. Only had 45min before Oppenheimer's premiere in Svolvær, so pressure was on for the next attempt, and it just barely proved to be successful. Great support from J and a Spanish couple.

Never took a fall, but redpoint feels more appropriate since I climbed around the crux of P6 the first time w/M. This time I went back w/J and lead all the 6+ pitches, with better protection and poise. (Pro: #6 for P2, #0,1 for P6 and micro-/peenuts for P6 and P7) The good climbing really only starts at P5 and ends after the first roof of P9, since rope drag/jamming is veeery hard to avoid. P1-4 (+ approach scramble) is not worth it, instead I'd recommend climbing Vestpillaren direct until the grassy ledge.

First go but climbed Tom Jones first, which helped. Climbs less like a pure finger crack than anticipated.

maybe the best line of the crag

lead 1+2 as link-up, 3rd pitch is the crux

Lead p1. The top half and exit of the groove was the crux for me. Grade felt more like 6+/7- for both p1 and p2 (the harder variation).

Climbs and protects disappointingly compared to how it looks. Tom Jones is waaaay better and not really more difficult.

Lofoottien Kantti. Excellent line. The airy bolting removed some of the enjoyment for me. Maybe next time I'll be more relaxed. Maybe not.

I was actually trying to climb this one, but still got lost :D

maneuvering all this with a backpack is the real crux, had to do some switching back and forth with how I carried it :D in hindsight I probably could have clipped it to my harness...

okay route, as long as you do the extension

Eggum anti-style. Cool overlapping slabs.

tää ois varmaan kiva ylärissä, liidi oli vähän turhan jäykkää menoa tänään

Tr flash but then only second rp try sent..🤔 Taking off the shirt was the key to this climb in the heat

tokalla

retroflash

Purest friction climbing I've done, nailing the beginning crux feels like magic everytime

paljon hankalampi kuin bensaa suonissa

Felt like a flash, but had climbed pieniä askelia first. Normally wouldn't be so anal about one shared bolt, but the beginning is kinda the crux.

Ei rahkeet riittäny saittiyrkkään, joten pari yläröintä alle ja sitten menoks. Lopulta osoittautui hyvin varmistettavaksi aivan alkua lukuunottamatta. Hienoa, teknistä kiipeilyä. PS the route stays dry in moderate rain

kauniisti katettuun pöytään

Olipa hieno reitti ja kesäilta. Pari tutkivaa yläriyrkkää ennen liidiä kun eka 6c trädi kyseessä. Vähän paremmalla itsekurilla piissien suhteen olisi voinut mennä ekalla rp yrkällä, mutta eipä haitannut lainkaan kiivetä uudestaan alusta loppuun.

Kiva linja, menisi varmaan myös trädinä jos alun varmistaisi patjalla 😄

1st go

2nd try felt much smoother

climbs better than it looks - my favorite from today

kävin hassaamassa saitin ylärissä. morpho/soft

pretty sure I've climbed this before, clipping into bolts

more crimping than my finger was maybe ready for today, but happy to not slip on my way to the 3rd bolt

cool movement, well bolted

not beginner friendly until the first bolt

en tajunnut, että vasemmalla menee trädilinja, oli pultit niin lähellä halkeamaa. olisi ollut vähän väkinäistä yrittää pysyä vain feissillä.

tr warmup

tr warmup

what a ride

powerful tufarally

this rock is just...odd :D

varied and interesting for the grade

Confusing line to OS, bolts zigzagging for no apparent reason. Might like this more on a second go.

Not sure if I'm discovering better 6a's or just beginning to enjoy them more. (intermediate steps made this one flow nicely)

1+2. Actually the third bolt line from the inside corner, the fourth one would be Colaboration ciudadana 7a+ ☝️

2nd go, following the bolt line directly over the bulge. Stiffer beginning as well as crux compared to Sara. Might be a 7a+, but the rests are very good on this one.

Tried this four years ago and couldn't even hang-dog my way to the chains. Now it went first try! Funny seeing comments from 15 years ago about this being polished. #tufarally

A nice day out w/ A. Quite scrambly, using just sneakers worked ok. Apparently some nearby 6b also has a golden first bolt, so beware.

Enjoyable trad like movement

not beginner friendly

So much fun. Easier than Redders for me.

fun and versatile, in hindsight a long draw(s) before the lip would've helped to reduce the massive ropedrag

weird bolting imo

pumpy

indeed tricky

reitti löytyy cragsista myös sektoriin liitettynä, tikataan nyt huvin vuoksi täältäkin

komea linja! ja luksusräkillä, ai että

kutsuvan näköinen ja monipuolinen

siis lol mikä sandbag. 2nd

Parhaita nelosia mitä tullut Suomessa kiivettyä. Alku vaati hieman kanttia, pädi varmasti helpottaisi.

joko hankala tai vääränlaiset kengät

kanansiipi ei oikein ottanut ilmaa alleen

10.06.21 pitää palata liidaamaan tää 11.06.22 useita liidipannuja kruksista, iho loppu, ens kerralla sit puhtaasti 13.08.22 olipa herkkä! taisi olla vaan omasta päästä kiinni tämä sendi, ylärissä meni niin paljon helpommin. kruksin alla oleva hylly kuumottaa, mutta eihän siihen osu.

soolo, w/J

soolo, w/J

looks more like trad than sport to me, but didn't bother to test my theory

Nice and varied. Linked 1+2 with 50m ropes and lead all. End of p2 felt harder than expected (awkward to protect), p3 was great and the rest was a bit scrambly but still enjoyable. Descent is fine once you find it but wouldn't recommend it if it's wet. w/ S

Sketchy from start to finish :D climbing wise nice cruxes, but the choss takes away from the overall quality sadly. Def felt tough for N6. Led p1 and the last half of p2. w/ M

Led p2. w/M & S

a fun cool down for the nerves after den siste viking...

Best trad I've done. Flowy leads. Slipped on the slanting corner while trying to place protection, sent next go (without untying). Second last pitch took a while to find the courage for. Led 1, 3, 6, 7, 9, 11. w/ V

horrible beta but still went down

Nerve racking protection wise, bailed on pitch 4 due to route finding difficulties (wet, grassy, bold, didn't seem like N4). Led 2 and part of 4. w/ T

My god, everything is so good here. Maybe the style also suits me perfectly, had never done a sport 7 in Finland but now this with second try...

where is this supposed to end exactly? did extension anyway, luckily

Two pitches possible with 50m ropes if you make the second anchor higher. Lead all.

lead p2 and p5. good, but disconnected climbing. felt ant line to be almost a little nicer.

the big flake flexes at lot when weighted, felt like it was gonna break any second. proceed with care I guess. the crack is otherwise nice.

10.7.22 lead p2 11.7.23 lead p1 and p3 (and took away one star lol)

w/ A, lead all. first pitch is wandering, sporty and not obvious to protect, second pitch is tough but well protected

strayed to one of eggulf's jugs after the crux so not the purest send, but I'll take it for now

really nice for the grade

Trio w/ A and M. Led 1st and upper ~2/3 of 2nd pitch.

Piti pakittaa kun en vaan millään saanut varmistettua reittiä - kaveri sitten näytti miten ne camut mälvätään maltillisesti ja oikeaoppisesti. Kiipeilyllisesti erittäin mukavaa kitkatassuttelua, täytyypä palata liidaamaan.

hyllyn jälkeen ei tehnyt mieli enää pudota

8.6.22 Alku oli aivan märkä, joten liidiyrkkä saa jäädä seuraavaan kertaan. Hyviä muuveja. 15.6.22 Nyt oli kuiva, alku meni paljon helpommin. Tuli hiottua ylärissä, joten ekalla liidiyrkällä kellistyi. Hieno reitti ja eka 6b trädi!

hyvä

Matias Myyrä ois osuvampi, sen verran multaa jäi varpaisiin. Avuksi piti hieman kahmaista viereisen halkeeman kanttiaa, ahaa, ahaa.

hyvä

hyvä

Once I found where the route actually goes the moves felt soft for the grade. Not much harder than Rev it up, although that might actually be a 5 then. Idk. First couple of moves were admittedly a little sketch but everything else seemed sufficiently protected after that.

7.6.20 Cool ending especially. Have to come back with gear. 13.6.22 Came back. The name of the route is so spot on. One more star.

erehdyin hieman linjasta ja menin jo ensimmäisestä poikkihalkeamasta oikealle. todnäk vain vaikeutin asioita.

Toisittelin tän tänään ja tajusin, etten todellakaan ollut kiivennyt tätä aiemmin, vaikka 27cragsin mukaan olin. Mennyt sekaisin Nimetön-reitin kanssa, joka huomattavasti helpompi.

good for the grade, easy to protect, just really short

why did this feel so desperate

mukavan mielenkiintoinen

Looked fun but climbed way burlier than I thought. Couldn't find smooth beta even afterwards on toprope. Weird rock friction. Maybe softer shoes would have helped? Still deserves a star though, first 6a+ trad for me.

2nd. Harmi et vähän sammaleinen, muuten aikas hyvä loppupäästä!

hemmetin hyvää alusta loppuun

hankalampi kuin miltä näyttää

2nd

"lämppä"nelosista kenties vähiten könyävä!

melkoinen. pitkähihattomuus ja räkin turha rehevyys jäivät kaduttamaan.

jotenkin vaivalloisen tuntuinen lämppäreitiksi, taisin suojata liikaa

kolmosteltu eka. ihan kiva, hankalammat kohdat helppo suojata rauhassa.

lenkkarisoolo

Likainen. Koitin putsata sitä mukaa kun kiipesin, mutta reitti kaipaisi järeämpiä välineitä jotta kiipeily olisi miellyttävää. Halkeama sinänsä ok.

kaipaa maisemointia, en suosittele

ei huono

luksuspulttaus

not sure I would trust a cam behind that flake.. good moves though

crux piece preplaced...what a fight

edit: downgrade after climbing the harder variation

three stars for the first five pitches. 9.9.2021 w/ J, leading every other pitch 26.6.2022 w/ A, leading every pitch, six total

three stars for the first five pitches. 9.9.2021 w/ J, leading every other pitch 26.6.2022 w/ A, leading every pitch, six total

Lead all pitches. Very satisfying. Topped out with headlamps.

Retrospectively can't remember what I lead, but was as fun as Gollum anyway. Without eagle's nest variation. Pretty surely OS.

A true adventure w/ Joao. Got drenched in rain and later in hail, also just fumbled about plenty in general. Bacalao tasted great after this one.

28.8.2021 Applecake variation for the first pitch. Lead P2. Felt tough. Splurged too many cams in the beginning, had to run it out a little at the top. 2.7.2022 Did first pitch as intended. Not much harder than second pitch (5+ and 4+ in topo), although could be quite reachy. Great route.

Pannut tulikin heti alkuun :D tehtiin neljässä pitsissä harjoittelun vuoksi

First multipitch lead. Came back two days later and switched leads, and now all pitches and both variations have been lead, I think.

Ei paskempi kuivana

toprope eka. vähä likanen kieltämättä mutta muuten hyvä. hankalin trädi tähän mennessä.

kiipesin kahdesti kun halusin harjoitella pelkkien kiilojen käyttöä myöhempi edit: alun boulderkränkkäys jäänyt huomioimatta greidissä, korjataan

Top roped first because of the stingy bolting. More scary than actually difficult, but might as well give this a 6a.

Well bolted. Felt a bit soft compared to the other routes on the sector.