Aarni Velhonoja

samperi kun oli saitti hilkulla, mutta tokalla sitten. mainio släbi, paljon kiivettävää!

Jes!! Pidin tästä alusta loppuun. Kaksi sessiota, joiden välissä kiipesin paljon boordia. Löytyi sieltä yksi sormi- ja polvijammikin. Kiitos kaikille, joilta sain matkan aikana vinkkejä ja inspiraatiota!

retroflässi

Bellissimo 🤌 Three stars reflect my overall experience of P2. FYI, I encountered a hard and dusty line between this and Staracka d. (7a+) that's not in the topo yet. w/M

mamma mia tutto dolore

This looked more inviting than Tika plus, glad I went for it! w/M

Shoutout to my belayer Marin, a Slovenian chap that had returned to Paklenica 40 years after his first visit. A calming presence that I warmly welcomed.

Shoutout to the friendly Serbian dad who held the rope for me

4th go, maybe the hardest 7a I've done. Or maybe I missed some crucial kneebar. The rain created a dense mist inside the cave, but this route stayed somewhat climbable with a headlamp and lowered expectations.

Really nice warmup for a wall that has 7's and 8's (and 9's) next to it. Sandbagged, as expected.

Send* with a huge asterisk. Basically got halfway up before K called it a day, but we were moving too slow anyway. Given that this was his first multipitch we were possibly just begging for an epic, but avoided one anyway, barely. P1 os, P2 tr, P3 2nd go (pump management), and the rest was a bit of a mess with route finding and running out of draws. Overbolted, probably. But beautiful setting and excellent climbing.

Pretty tough honestly, pump management required

The locals rated this and the dilly dally so I will too!

The joy of literally dropping your stuff next to an inviting looking warmup on your stroll through the park turns into a realisation that you're definitely not the first one to do so and you're now climbing ice without tools as the sun scorches your back. But you don't really mind it because you're now on holiday with your friend and things will get better.

tokal

mainion kryptinen. alun märkyys loi tasaisemman haastavuuden.

Trädääjää kutsuva linja! Otin kaikki halkeamasukellusvarusteet käyttöön, varmaan vähän softi sillä tyylillä ensinousuun verrattuna. Kolme sessaria.

Engaging vert style that climbs better than it looks. The strong wind gusts today added a nice feeling of exposure. Sandbaggyness might be placebo. Might. Thanks for the draws, Carles.

ytimekäs

nalkkilan läksyt oli tehtynä

hieno kruksi! tokal

huvittavan huono, ei silti jäänyt kaduttamaan

Valmiit jatkot, valmis beta – kahdessa sessarissa pakettiin hämmennyksen saattelemana. Nummitili avattu! Pauli ja Touko, te seuraavaks 😎

pitkään hillottu välähdys

Ai että, kyllä maistuu! Kiitos Iso-Rene tästä matkasta. Kenties kohtaamme vielä luomukiipeilyn merkeissä.

vähän epäselvä linja

Fun, entertaining, surprising. And in great company.

2nd go, but it wasn't pretty. Could just be hard or beta intensive. A great line nonetheless.

hupaisaa pokettia

luonnongraniittiin tottuneena ihan mielenkiintoista puuhaa etsiskellä otteita tällä krägillä

ihan hauska, myös lopetus

tukeuduin lantiooni, mutta ilmeisesti tämän pääsee helpomminkin (ts vähemmän tyylikkäästi) ylös

kunnon pähkinä

pretty good stem, no pulling needed

Nimensä mukaista hiippailua, viimeinen vika yrkkä ratkaisi! Omasta mielestäni vaikeampi kuin Ota mut.

Unrelenting from the bottom to the top. An excellent route that is popular for a reason.

Cool bouldery sequence that comes right after the anchor, so you don't even need to commit any draws to test it. Happy how quick this one came together even though it was the last day of the trip and the fatigue almost made me give up on it.

One star for Toni. Adventurous and stiff for the grade.

Aesthetic, exposed and demanding – El Kantti de Catalunya. Went a muerte on the os (straight after Jeketepeke like Nils) but just couldn't quite keep it together all the way, so flew off and got my leg caught behind the rope – barely even scraped the wall though. 2nd go went smoothly (from the middle anchor). Favorite route of the trip. Highly recommended for all you onsight maniacs.

on my way to MC to maximise the epicness

Racked all my draws for Trampolin and flailed up this thinking I was getting sandbagged again. The purest form of onsighting.

15 bolts

"warmup"

Falkberget on steroids. Never in my life been so close to flashing a route.

climbed this really slowly and it felt so good

Slightly annoyed to miss the os, but not enough to not give three stars. Gotta love a good crack dihedral, even if it's bolted.

beautiful!

7 bolts

5 bolts

Sustained, mental, rewarding. 3rd go but took plenty of refining. Bolting feels inconsistent but is actually pretty reasonable.

ok but quite sharp

airy layback 👌 the bolting definitely adds to the experience here

Excessive body tension and nervous glances at the previous bolt below in the distance – my Siurana account is now opened.

variation os

surprisingly amusing when none of the holds are what I'd expect

a warm welcome to the conglomerate paradise of Margalef

upean moniulotteinen

oikein klassinen hyvänmielen 6b+

reading the comments kinda ruined my os lol. not a bad route, just f*in hard for the grade :D

Fun and varied. Four quick sessions on the way to and from Norway. Straight outta tent basically, no warm-up, and just before the rain. Kneebars are simply OP, I feel like I'm finally starting to understand them.

Perfect crimpy layback moves. Top seeps a little after rain but crucial holds stay dry.

technical mantle moves on perfect friction, what's not to like!

First bolt preclipped since I had no gear with me. After second last clip went right for the crescent moon looking hold. Enjoyed this one a lot, the whole crag is really nice:)

packs a punch! top seems to get partly wet in heavy rain/seepage but it's still totally climbable

two kneepads would've been extra nice to have for this, but even one helped a lot

Fun!

loose start (preclip could be nice), reachy but very fun top

in the end staying on the face between the shelf and the vertical crack of the 6a+ (the star is mostly for the handshake I got from J after flashing this)

What a meme of a route. Protected the start with a small pad.

luulin kiipeäväni Evää enkä lainkaan pitänyt greidiä softina

hyvin se stemmas! vasen puoli reitistä kaipaisi teräsharjaa

With the two distinct cruxes, I think this definitely deserves 7a. For example Pyhimys went first go, but this needed two sessions. I do admit, however, that this route has always been in the sun when I tried it.

Very aesthetic and airy line! First time trying this four years ago had a complete meltdown. Then 1-2 years later went to clean it in the dark and retroflashed it, but sadly had three bolts preclipped. Now I can finally claim a clean ascent!

Delicate, but still easier than Stinger imo. I've wandered onto a part of this route some years ago while trying Vompatti - def can't take the OS, but I'll bargain for a flash 😄

nice name, ok route

Practically a winter ascent in early March. Great friction today, pieced this one together surprisingly quickly 🦋

What an amazing experience climbing this on the last day of the trip!! Had to pull every single trick I'd learned during my stay for the send. Pressure turned into gratitude:) grade opinion: delicious 😋

Awesome crux!!

Took a while to embrace the wandering nature of this deceptive but beautiful line. 3rd go.

My flash attempt for this was some of the smoothest and most confident climbing I've ever done, just made a silly mistake near the top after having passed both cruxes. Came back after a couple of weeks expecting a retro OS, but just got completely shut down. Had to go into full project mode, which felt frustrating. Still, I think this is one of the most beutiful 7b's I've climbed. Probably also a route that benefits greatly from both good skin and friction, which weren't quite there for my send.

felt tougher than the two 6c+ routes next to this

Great first burn, fell right before the anchor and couldn't repeat the moves afterwards, so found easier but kinda morpho beta for my 2nd go.

First 7b onsight! What an epic fight! 😀 Fun moves, good rests.

First 7b flash so must be soft of course. w/ Rikard

Med Rikards stilig live beta

Logging my ascent of El Chevo 7a here. Tough, slippery and crimpy crux at the bottom, felt just like home. Ending is fuuuun! 7a/+

Followed the bolt line too religiously and missed my os. 2nd go was cruising.

We were trying to warm-up on Magnetoresistencia but ended up here I think, because the topo doesn't show the lines share the same start. Still not sure what we climbed. w/Lewis

Got pretty close to sending this on my second go, but then ended up trying it for another two days before finally succeeding. A very mental route. If you're able to stay relaxed the whole way you will find yourself at the chains not even pumped. Such a great learning experience!

Täydellisellä betalla, Eliaksen sendisortseilla ja pituudella.

Stressful

Ok, that's enough stemming for one day. After a couple of bolts I just refused to fall. First of the grade :D

more intense than sendero, found amazing flow on this one!

Santa likes it wide! 🎅🏻

Callum's Christmas present for us was putting up the draws, what a gentleman.

Technical crux that is hard to read and a bit out of character with the rest of the line, but cool nonetheless. Difficult to grade. 2nd go.

would be 3 stars as a trad line

Hot, technical, polished

Tanskalaisten hiiviskelyn inspiroittamana – kutkuttavia asentoja!

Entertaining all the way! ~36 meters as os

Surely every 7a in Chorreras can't be this good.. Or can they? (os w/ draws on)

"hienoja kuplia" :D wat

Great positions and features. Just go for it!

Girthy!!

The short upper section is a technical and delicate dihedral - had an Elvis leg for the first time in a long time

18 bolts for 50m so a bit sparsely bolted. 1+2 is 6b

1+2

50m, crux is to leave the ledge

varied

soft if you can jam

Renessanssi taas märkänä, mutta kyllä nämäkin kruksit maistuvat. Pidennetyt jatkot ovat hyödyksi monessa kohdassa ja putsauksen voi tehdä talon tarjoamien sulkkareiden kautta. Toppaus suoraan lipan päälle.

awkward start and dirty top, otherwise ok

hyviä muuveja:) flässi oli tooodella lähellä!

Jes! Eka 7b Suomessa ja kyllä sitä saikin hakea kolme sessiota ennen kuin pääsi kruksista läpi. Suora lopetus ja sitä ennen levon löytäminen nostaa ehdottomasti reitin laatua. Otsalamppukitkat <3

had climbed veripalvelu previously, so not the purest os feel. nicely sustained movement for such a short route. a good line.

Olipa hankala, taisin vähän aliarvioida reitin! Liukasta gabroa ja empivää kiipeilyä. Toppaus feissin puolelta.

Cryptic and technical, worth it if you have some skin to spare. Practice falls afterwards concluded that the bolting is fine, although harder catches might be a good idea in the beginning so you don't hit your (lighter) belayer. Also I would still pre-clip.

dynamic moves! 😀 ...to sharp holds 🙄 retroflash

märkä

valtavaa kidettä mutta kuitenkin limainen tuntuma, ei kenties ollut ihan kuiva

Couldn't see the right holds because I was so gripped, so went for the wrong sequence and missed my os. Only had 45min before Oppenheimer's premiere in Svolvær, so pressure was on for the next attempt, and it just barely proved to be successful. Great support from J and a Spanish couple.

Lofoottien Kantti. Excellent line. The airy bolting removed some of the enjoyment for me. Maybe next time I'll be more relaxed. Maybe not.

okay route, as long as you do the extension

Eggum anti-style. Cool overlapping slabs.

tää ois varmaan kiva ylärissä, liidi oli vähän turhan jäykkää menoa tänään

Tr flash but then only second rp try sent..🤔 Taking off the shirt was the key to this climb in the heat

retroflash

Purest friction climbing I've done, nailing the beginning crux feels like magic everytime

paljon hankalampi kuin bensaa suonissa

Felt like a flash, but had climbed pieniä askelia first. Normally wouldn't be so anal about one shared bolt, but the beginning is kinda the crux.

kauniisti katettuun pöytään

Kiva linja, menisi varmaan myös trädinä jos alun varmistaisi patjalla 😄

2nd try felt much smoother

climbs better than it looks - my favorite from today

kävin hassaamassa saitin ylärissä. morpho/soft

more crimping than my finger was maybe ready for today, but happy to not slip on my way to the 3rd bolt

cool movement, well bolted

not beginner friendly until the first bolt

en tajunnut, että vasemmalla menee trädilinja, oli pultit niin lähellä halkeamaa. olisi ollut vähän väkinäistä yrittää pysyä vain feissillä.

tr warmup

tr warmup

what a ride

powerful tufarally

this rock is just...odd :D

varied and interesting for the grade

Confusing line to OS, bolts zigzagging for no apparent reason. Might like this more on a second go.

Not sure if I'm discovering better 6a's or just beginning to enjoy them more. (intermediate steps made this one flow nicely)

1+2. Actually the third bolt line from the inside corner, the fourth one would be Colaboration ciudadana 7a+ ☝️

2nd go, following the bolt line directly over the bulge. Stiffer beginning as well as crux compared to Sara. Might be a 7a+, but the rests are very good on this one.

Tried this four years ago and couldn't even hang-dog my way to the chains. Now it went first try! Funny seeing comments from 15 years ago about this being polished. #tufarally

A nice day out w/ A. Quite scrambly, using just sneakers worked ok. Apparently some nearby 6b also has a golden first bolt, so beware.

Enjoyable trad like movement

not beginner friendly

So much fun. Easier than Redders for me.

fun and versatile, in hindsight a long draw(s) before the lip would've helped to reduce the massive ropedrag

weird bolting imo

pumpy

indeed tricky

10.06.21 pitää palata liidaamaan tää 11.06.22 useita liidipannuja kruksista, iho loppu, ens kerralla sit puhtaasti 13.08.22 olipa herkkä! taisi olla vaan omasta päästä kiinni tämä sendi, ylärissä meni niin paljon helpommin. kruksin alla oleva hylly kuumottaa, mutta eihän siihen osu.

soolo, w/J

soolo, w/J

looks more like trad than sport to me, but didn't bother to test my theory

horrible beta but still went down

My god, everything is so good here. Maybe the style also suits me perfectly, had never done a sport 7 in Finland but now this with second try...

where is this supposed to end exactly? did extension anyway, luckily

strayed to one of eggulf's jugs after the crux so not the purest send, but I'll take it for now

really nice for the grade

hyllyn jälkeen ei tehnyt mieli enää pudota

why did this feel so desperate

lenkkarisoolo

kaipaa maisemointia, en suosittele

ei huono

luksuspulttaus

Top roped first because of the stingy bolting. More scary than actually difficult, but might as well give this a 6a.

Well bolted. Felt a bit soft compared to the other routes on the sector.

awesome crux

Swerved a little to the right somewhere along the line but I guess it still counts. Stemming through the crux might get a little narrow for a tall person, idk

top roped first

reachy

Worthwhile. Pulley can be borrowed for 5e from Finca.