Tommi Johansson

I surely did this before but didnt tick it :)

Not so hard. Quite short but nice.

Short but nice

Really good and not polished! Next time I’ll do the straight variation!

Hard?! Polished and tough crux, some long moves, but really cool nevertheless,

Polished, short and boulderymy total anti style 😅 but put up a good fight

Start is hard, easy to fall there. A bit polished even. The crack part is superb

Huh that was demanding technical climb

Demanding, long, power endurance climb. Cool as well! I broke one handhold when I went too much to right at one point (but didn’t fall), so wear a helmet!

Hard start, tiny feet!

Super cool. Fully focus all the way. Soft?

Interestingly different route, but not very continuous. I found a beginning and ending crux, what’s the ’middle’?

Really nice line with different beta options

Harder than the neighbour / more difficult to read, but equally good.

Beautiful Technical face climbing. Why is there an extension as well, I didn’t see any more bolts? But route was approx 25 m high?

What a route! Many different styles, cruxes are delicate. Perfect 2nd go.

Worked as a warm up due to the beginning 6b, but the crux was a bit desperate. Also soft?

Funny name. Enjoyable route! Soft maybe.

Good for being so short (it says 14m here but surely less). Soft.

Maybe the highlight of this sector! And maybe my hardest onsight! So coool 😎

Good. A bit tricky to read.

Good

Good stuff

Fun name, fun climb

7b/7b+. Grade should be updated here. Good and frequently climbed route, stiff!

Nice one! Worked as (hard) warm-up

Interesting line. Hard long move from pocket!

Hard! Slopers and proper crimps. Nice moves.

Really cool and not simple

Really nice! Some quite tricky crimps

Nice but short’ish. Clipping the anchor was tricky

Megaline! Starts easy and keeps getting harder. Lenght is wrong though, it’s more like 38 m.

Superb!

Really cool adventure!

Accidentally did this for warmup instead the line on the left, but was ok :)

Tough cracks!

Wow, how good!!! What a finding this crag! Overhang was not so hard, the vertical part was quite tricky.

I earlier thought this is too hard for 7a+, but with a clever beta it’s probably correct. Still pumpy, crimpy and with long moves. Cool!

Intense and cool! Probably soft? But you have to like crimps 😉 hard to onsight because putting up last draw is difficult.

Quite fun and partially overhanging :)

Cool moves! Thanks for bolting this

I really like this problem! Many nice moves for the grade

The climb is really nice until the last bolt! Then it’s very desperate moves on slopers/knobs to the anchor 😅 still worth much more traffic!

So happy of this send! Feels like I have margin for harder stuff. 3 stars even if one crimp is very sharp, so cool moves. Surprisingly safe despite only 4 bolts for 23 meters (and I put couple of cams in the beginning).

Cool problem, tack Simon!

Felt still hard and like wrestling, my anti style 😅 but it’s still sandbagged even if you can handjam well. Climbed in darkness with headlamp. Still barely enough reds and yellows.

Finally clean send from this one without any preplaced stuff (didn’t even grab the tree in the end!). Didn’t climb well but didn’t fall, that’s important, and got crazy pumped 🤣 what a route!!

Felt really hard and delicate in places 😅

The crux caused me some beta trouble, but it was also about commitment. Nice autumn evening with a headlamp. Too short!

Pari kovin vaikeeta muuvia

Good to see, that this amazing problem and old nemesis went down quite easy after a few years break from it. I have learned to heel-hook and use my body, it seems. Still it feels surely closer to 7a than 6c.

Huh, what a cool problem, definitely coming back for the sit-start version. I’m 177 cm and finally had the reach when I fixed the left foot the highest possible (good) place. Delicate topout! Climbed in the dark using flashlight and headlamp.

Very nice and adventurous climbing! Take a lot of slings (I didn’t!)

Ahh I almost sent this! Trad can be so freaking hard sometimes. Top rope was kind of easy. Start is difficult to protect in a good way (not the get gear where you want hands). Way harder than it looks, because eg. the feet are so bad. But really nice!

Felt hard, delicate top out. Good stuff!

Dayflash, I had tried it before. Very height dependent! I could do the crux moves but a shorter person (<170 cm) definitely couldn’t.

Really cool and unusual climb! Recommended despite a bit dirty start 👌

Woah what a climb and day. Technically session-send in great autumn conditions (I had tried it once long time ago but have no memory). The crux is distinct in my opinion and I’m still not quite sure how the fingers stayed in that hold. Without using the arete.

Quite hard start and then cruising and adventurous. For abseil the Enhörningens anchor is not very far.

Vaikea sanoa mitä tässä saa tai ei saa käyttää? Hieno seinä tämä kuitenkin.

Seinän paras reitti! Pituudesta on/olisi hyötyä tässä. Tänään oli märät jalkaotteet startissa mikä teki siitä vaikean. Kuitenkin liian iisi seiskaksi.

Tämä on aikas hyvä kuten nuo muutkin. Kesti hetken löytää beta. Hieman liian monta reittiä seinällä

Ihan kiva reitti vaikka pieniä ja teräviäkin otteita. Ensimmäiset muuvit 👌

Melkein kehtaisin tästä 6c:nkin antaa, olin tosi pumpissa. Paljon otteita toki! Tänne kalliolle päästävä uudestaan!

Nice crux move/moves. Still unsure of the optimal beta but I got really pumped today. 2nd go

Kohtuuvaikea mantteli / korkea jalan nosto

Kiipesin uudestaan ainakin kerran että oli varmasti suoraan ylös 😅 sitstart myös.

En dynoillyt

Sitstart toki mutta mistä otteista saa lähteä? Toiselle kädelle aika hyvä krimppi ylhäällä.

Terävää ja vaikeeta ja… no enpä tiiä mutta tykkäsin silti 😅 aika hänkin tuntuinen

This is a nice wall! I went straight up but did I do something wrong when it felt too easy for 7a?

Nice session with a clean toprope go. Next time trying to send lead. Feels hard for the grade. Update two weeks later: led the route well but fell on the last move to the jug… real nemesis to me 🤯 extended the third quickdraw.

Really cool and unusual moves despite a bit short route!! Hard to onsight.

Felt like a very hard 7a for me. But very cool. Desperate send on second go. At least one pretty hard move at a lower part going over the lip, or did I do it wrong?

Enjoyed this a lot. Send in the afternoon sun ☀️ The bottom crux caused me trouble, but figured out a funky, probably unusual beta :) The bottom part is a bit height dependent. First time doing a 7c in one session in Nordics! (Ok, even if it’s soft)

Straight up the bolted line. I wanted to climb the 7b but couldnt do the ending.

Nice! Bolted anchor at the end. Long, almost 30m.

Hard for grade but really nice :) crimps in the beginning (dont escape to the crag), easy in the middle, cool differerent ending.

Long and nice climb - but felt hard for the grade and rock quality is not perfect. Really hard start or I did something wrong.

Huh that was onsight-limit. Small crimps so nice :)

Really nice climbing :) gear is not fully necessary but it’s nice to have one cam to avoid runout in the end.

Wow! Bouldery start, then some long moves.

Huh I got so pumped - good name! Tricky putting up/clipping one bolt in the middle, bailed on that one on the OS and took couple of falls before committing.

Balancy and tricky. What a nice climb! Good warmup as it gets gradually harder.

Amazing line. Starts to be little polished. Crux with heelhook and a lower crimp, which felt surprisingly stable (though strenous) after little practise. This route was in my mind from the last trip to Stockholm, when I didn’t have a chance to properly try it.

Climbed it in full darkness with a headlamp. How cool :)

I have tried following the bolts strictly before and that felt very hard. But I agree with Johannes, that going up and slightly left and then right at the crux, as people seem to do it, feels easier than 7a+. Start is actually the hardest then.

Followed the bolts quite closely, felt like grade. Cool one and especially the end, actually!

There was a mouse living in the crack halfway :)

Nice balancy climbing with a bouldery start. A bit mental and cool view :) second, desperate go. Hard to grade

Feels pretty hard (by all standards). Probably would try to lead it next time. Crux at the top and might be a bit height dependent..

Great climbing and nice fingerjams

Best about this place is the place, but this route was quite fine

Very hard, If you go straight up, but worth it! I didn’t understand why to go to left in the end to the last bolt, because the straight version provides better climbing, even if it’s much harder. 7a/7+