Juho Knuuttila

Agree with Marjut. The other topo downgrades everything just to have diffirent grades. No matter if grades come sandbagged, still too high or something else. Just silly. Climbing was good though.

Not the most beautiful line but climbs well.

7b/+

2nd

Varied! King line of the crag.

2nd go. Don't know if I like this tufa game at all.

Warm-up

2nd

Polished and crowded.

Never ending 42m journey that keeps on giving. Really cool upper part and fight until the very last moves.

Steep wrestling. A bit wet, burly and very homogenous climbing.

Some really nice pitches. Crux pitch is best linked to a 6a+ below to avoid a hanging belay.

Full trad value!

Rope solo. Felt easier than 'Check it out'.

High and easy splitter. Not so common in Finland. Rope solo.

Finally some memorable stuff!

2nd go.

Mountaineering. 14,5h car to car with a chill pace. With Sara.

2nd. Rain and 100% humidity. But got some climbing done.

Sting in the tail!

Trickier to protect than it looks. Would use caution with a top out triangle block.

Mega wet upper part but jams held.

2nd go. Couldn't clip the bolt on the crux.

As a start for the crack.

Should have on-sighted. Used too long with a gear before horizontal.

While doing the full line.

Maybe the best hand crack of Kustavi.

One of the best routes at Hopia, no doubt!

Kunnon pyngerrys.

Kiitos itsepäisyys! Skin destroying heat and holds.

An experience. The steepest trad route I have done. Horizontal chimney in the roof is crazy! Impossible to grade.

First round felt hopeless. Sara figured out beta that worked and made me fighting for my life on the last jugs. Shaky chiken wing saved and brought victory.

Cool. Mielettömän viilee is harder.

Excellent route that requires finesse, power and mental strenght. Not dangerous with modern gear. If you know how to place well. Line continues straight up to a ledge where anchor of Kaari is.

Worth of climbing. Been top-rope soloing this few times before it became a route.

Fun lilttle route way above Sarajärvi. Cleaned and tried moves many years ago. Chance of getting full Haukkavuori experience on this one if climbed in a sunset. Thanks Jani!

Approach, crimpy traverse and overhanging crack (used a jam glove in a right hand) lead to a treat aka Haukkavuori slab. 2nd go.

Cool climbing on big holds. Perfect season starter! Maybe 7c to be in line with other Haukkavuori routes.

Routes here are definitely not as 'big' as in Ulassai but okey climbing still.

Last route in Ulassai this time. Spikey pockets...

Nice route but too many bolts as you need close to 20 quickdraws.

Sustained technical difficulties with Haukkavuori style boltting. 40m so 70m rope is too short.

Excellent. Powerfull start and exposed slab. Almost full 40m. 2nd go.

First few meters were nice but rest of the route was sharp, crumbly and not three stars.

Big holds, steep terrain, getting hammered by mistral. Hero climbing!

Overhanging razor edge in the end was for sure memorable! One star from climbing and one from the line.

First 7b os in the canyon. 😉 Sustained.

Climbs very well. Very technical and a bit powerful. Learned something new about the crux on every attempt.

2nd go. In need of a rest day! Thin and technical at the start.

Fun!! Took few tries to get through the upper crux.

Fell off from the first move few times. Rest of the route on-sight. So fun!!

Hard for the grade I would say. Third bolt (the only glue in) is loose so I would not climb this route before it's fixed.

Excellent!! A great battle in mistral winds. Splits in three sections with full rests in between.

Didn't like the start but rest of the line was super.

Planned warm up was taken so went straight to this. Continuous but big holds now and then.

2nd

2nd

2nd go.

Basically sport climbing with no hard moves. Pure enjoyment!

Only thing that was dry in the morning. Not too bad. Bouldery start.

Last guiding day in Lofoten for this summer.

On the first go the jug was wet. Cleaned wet moss away and climbed it.

Committing to climb above piles of human shit, without a pad.

Classic.

Not scary, or that bold. But soft. Some nice pitches but most of them are quite wondering. Such a nice day out with Lassi and Ori though.

Fell from the last jugs. Thought that I was on a 6c+ and got mad after falling. Got even more furious when I realised it was this route. 😅 2nd go.

Like 'Ny Tid' in Beachen. Fierce overhang with jugs. Long hero moves. 2nd go

Amazing lower part and end but I wish it wouldn't have a rest in the middle. Then it would be spectacular!

Did P3 and P4 like Jukka described. Seems the most logical way. Last two pitches looked mossy but climb well.

Long approach and even worse descent. Climbing is more adventurous than good. Offwidth pitch is actually the best.

Another good one! Bit more flakey at some parts than Minotauros. Also few more bold'ish face climbing sections.

On-sight for both, me and Sara. Entertaining climbing!

Blääh. Not worth of a hype

Magnificent journey!

Bounced my head against the wall with a wrong foot beta at the crux several times. Route went down as soon as I got it right. Well, what a fun line anyways.

Mega jug fest!

Chikenwings, jug traverse, lazer cut crack and a mantle. And ofc few knee bars included.

Brutal jamming through 30° wall. Thanks Samppa!

Excellent technical and a bit pumpy climbing.

Familiar shoulder move works always. Liked.

Sit start

2nd go. Wrongly drawn in the topo. Route goes all the way to the chains (high right) and extension goes left from that to the anchor of Gullpils.

Endurance is still there after winter!

The crux is to clip the 6th bolt. Good route but bolting sucks.

Continued up the L2 too.

Basicly it doesn't get any harder after the L1. Nice sustained climbing on good holds.

2nd

Not that nice

Warm up for Mari

Bad route

As hard as 7a+'s here

Long powerfull moves between pockets lead to a slab. Steeper climbing in the end too.

Beautiful! Messed my on-sight when I didn't notice a jug.

Power endurance crimp ladder. Perfect. First lead go after one tp round.

Crack climbing skills help. Possible heartbreaker top out.

2nd

2nd

Didn't know I had stamina to climb something like this. Good tufa action to a amazing headwall.

Tufa kneebar wrestling.

Climbing on glass

Like dry tooling. Mega jugs until you cant hold on anymore.

Warm up

Warm up. Too spaced bolting

Excellent! On a flash try fell off from the jugs at the top. 3rd go was the name of the game.

Morning hit before the rain. Like climbing in a jungle.

Like 6c

W. Sara.

W. Sara. Slab with a huge pocket jugs.

Famous traverse on P4 was actually quite nice.

Fun adventure w. Sara.

Sara's new beta made it possible for me. Very cool crux sequence above the gear. Falls are long but soft.

Superdiedret! Second lead go.

What a climb! Slippy and techy corners as a aperitif. Then a huge granite tufa and crimp extravaganza to the top.

Solo to get rope up

Team ascent with Sara.

Powering through after a finger injury and a seven week break from climbing.

All the way to the last bolt.

2nd go

Might often look a bit wet but still climbable. Good first half!

First route of the crag. Powerfull start and airy finish.

Varied line. Overhanging finger crack, juggy corner, exposed hand crack and memorable ending. Needed to fight hard to gain last two meters.