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Storpillaren, 6c
(The Great Pillar) A Lofoten classic - long and serious, though increasingly overshadowed by its neighbours. The route received its long ouverdue first free ascent in 2001, though it is still normally done with some aid (N6- A1) where needed. Start on the grassy shoulder under the right-hand side of the pillar at a conspicuous groove. The route is best done when completely dry, as the normal top section involves an unprotected slab which is near impossible when wet, though this can be avoided by some grunge climbing. Carry two set of cams and a full set of wires including micro wires. FA. Arild Meyer, Kjell Skog, Finn Tore Bjørnstad 7.1980. They took 26 hours. FFA. Odd-Roar Wiik, Robert Caspersen, Aril Meyer 2001. The young hotshots brought the grand master along because they needed someone to lead them up the last grotty pitches. In 2006 Jonas Dahlstrup and Erik Grunnesjö did it car-to-car in 12 hours - speedy! FFA. Oskar Alexandersson free climbed the original line on p4, 1.8.2013.
Added by
Stefan Lindström
Grade opinions
Ascents from public tick lists
Jussi Salojärvi
2012-07-10
Red point
6c+
We did this amazing and comprehensive package with Olli in 28 (2h+18h+8h) hours. I led pitches 1,3,5,7,9,11,12,13 and 15. I think it´s a little bit harder than The Codfather or Vårkåt, which should be the same grade.
Johan Hasslow
2013-08-10
On-sight
6c+
With Gustav Nilsson. All free apart from a whipper and some wire tugging on pitch 3. Climbing took 14 h but the round trip was 23,5 h due to the horrible walk along the coastline back to Kalle. One should probably go to Djupford instead.
Gustav Svenson
2013-08-13
Top rope
Klättrade med Johan Hasslow. Blev några drag i säkringar här och där. Riktigt roligt äventyr, totalt 23,5h bil till bil. Vägen tillbaka längs kusten till Kalle rekomenderas EJ, skulle gått via djupfjord istället.