Lauri Hilander

Kustavi 5+

TRS

Brutal

Retro Onsight after a onsight maybe 10 years ago

Team free with Nikke D. Beautifull but serious, sustained and hard outing. Seriously sandbagged bottom to top and at places poorly protected with significant fall potential and runouts. Treat all 4s as 5s, all 5s as 6-, second 6 as 6+. Bring 0.1, offset 0.1/0.2 and 0.2/0.3, triple 0.2-0.4 and standard doubles. Second hard pitch is propably one of the cooles slabs in norther Norway, climbing on dice size knobs of quartzite for 50 meters.

FA

Broke one of the potential start holds, same difficulty

Goood stuff

Some portions of the Pyllyvako were but dirty but thats how Pyllyvakos should be anyhows.

Top 5 routes at 5+ in Finland

Spaced bolts for a panther of the flat lands. Nice climbing.

Team with J.N. and N.D.

p1-3 very nice, p4-5 loose shiiiiiiiite

Bit runout here and there, some loose rock. Team with V.R.

Team effort with V.R. and S.P.

Soft-ish but good stuff!

Superb from bottom to top.

Quite a voyage, very nice.

Very nice, bit more height and this would be a classic imho.

Nice.

It looks like a hold has broken in the beginning and makes the first couple moves harder than 5, could be 5+/6a

Beginning has now bolts and is not an pleasant ride, recommended!

Superb climbing

Good climbing!

Excellent for the grade

Super nice hand crack, climbs and protects well all the way. Bit tight for big hands, thus felt quite stiff compared to thr grade. Doubles from 0.4 to 2, maybe triple 0.75.

Upper part is bit spaced but otherwise superb climbing.

Super nice! Significantly harder than the 6a+ around the corner. Superb rock, superb jams, pure awesomeness.

Part of Finnish climbing history. Team with H.P. and J.Y. The route for sure is steeper than it looks in the topo. single rack 0.3 to 1 enoug, bring pleanty of extendables to avoid rope drag on pitches 3 and 4. The rappel mentioned in the topo can be hard to find and the route can be abseiled if needed.

Apparentally according to ancient Rollo boulder-lore the first part pf the boulder, until to the crack, one shall not use the top edge but must wrestle with the list and venture around the corner via the lower holds.

Harder than Profylax imho, upper part is excellent. 2-star route otherwise but the middle part has lots of loose and dangerous shite, both should wear a helmet.

Retroflash, dont remeber the original date of ascent

Jammihanskat matkaan

2rls.

Beautiful.

I liked this one, not the most continuous route but rare in Finland in terms of style to lenght ratio when it comes to hand size cracks.

Pelkkää awesomia alusta loppuun.

The softest 7a I have tried.

Beautifull, just like its creator mr.Autio

Did the sitstart year ago, good warmup.

With N.D. and M.S., climbed this with some Korstoget pitches few years back (and pulled gear), so now full route. Stunning setting and good climbing.

Very nice

Good quality, for sure one of the best on Gandalf. Had bailed once earlier due wet conditions, hence redpoint. With N.D.

with J.N and N.D

As this thing is slightly behind an corner there is not much traffic, shame as the climbing is continuous and has very nice movement. Highly recommended! Beware two loose blocks at the left edge of the face, could come down with a big bang.

Harder than Jerry and Strengbäcken

Very nice, some loose rock at the anchor ledge.

Big features, big moves

Very nice, sadly there is a ledge half way up. one of the best in at Kaffeklippan 6b category.

Actually very very good!

Maybe worth more than one star in topo in comparison to other stuff in the book

with V.Marttila. Excellent route, p2 specially nice.

First pitch has an 10m strech of very nice climbing, second an 5m of nice climbing, rest is quite scrambly and nothing that special.

Lower part has significant amount of loose rock/holds that are ready to go. Local club has been informed, there is a left variation for the start that is bolted and avoids the crumble portion. Top is excellent climbing.

Simply excellent

Longer normal draw for 6th bolt, used an extended draw for 7th.

Apparentally there is an OG beta that avoids the big pocket jug and goes slightly more right than the drawn line does -> that felt more like 6b+/6c. But the name of the route is Game of Pocket = I use them all! With that maybe 6a+ish.

Sadly blew the flash with a ass dap. Depending on crack climbing skills and size of hands I guess the grade is between 5+ and 6c.

Might have done this some years ago. Excellent route.

Soft compared to Rankkari standards, maybe even 6B.

Bolted during RVK Kähäytys 21.

Slipped from the last hold in 2018 and took this long to go back to this short but oh so sweet piece of laplands sharp granite.

might have figured better beta

Excellent!

After Juho has cleaned and added some bolts to lower part this was an very nice climb!

Spectacular.

Tiukka. Hyvää kiikkua