Pauli M

The only only-moist but not soaking line here. Was well worth it!

Extra star for the ponies who tried to shit in my shoes!

Blew the first hard move, did nothing different and got to the top. Crazy route but protecting it safely takes time.

Slippery facey climbing not my personal preference

Mulle tiukka vaikka jonkinlaisena retrofläshinä menikin. Kipeä sekä varpaille että niille yksittäisille sormille jotka johonkin kiteeseen osuvat. Tän jälkeen meininki olikin sitten viedä hengen (Aalto).

Pilkkusukat kivien välissä ylös purjehtien

Potkin ja sätkin eilen pimeässä. Vuosia aiemmin potkin myös.

Tärkeintä märässä ja nihkeässä hiippailussa on ettei tule köyteen vaikka vetäisi väärästä kohtaa ja putoaisi.

Kakkosteltu viimeksi J:n perässä. Derby tälläkin kertaa.

derby

derby

derby

Derby

derby

derby

derby

derby

derby

derby

derby

derby

Derby

Derby

derby. Limaa. Liisteriä. Hyönteisiä.

derby

derby

derby

Hyvä eka puolisko. Jälkimmäinen oli terävä ja likainen ja sain sieltä vekin sekä melkein sturtsin kun jalka luiskahti. Ei kannata pelätä - Nu Moon on vaikeampi.

Ennen sateita

Pleasant

It was a proper climb after all! Great stuff!

Varied, not too tiring, not too cruxy. Much recommended!

Steep sewage. I spent circa 20 min trying to brush unending layers of filth/moss/dust before attempting to handstack myself out an unprotected offwidth exit before realizing the topo wants me to exit via a fingercrack that'd be protectable if I had any finger sized pro on a #2-4 sized roof crack. It was spicy enough for a Sv6 exit line. The final 2 meters are just rootsy.

Nice and jammy. The beginning is crumbly+damp and dangerous so please protect it.

Missed the other route

Exactly what you thought: no holds, minimal feet and two rattly flakes for protection before the crack disappears. And then it's just you and your hatred being stuck without a plan, shaking it off, haddocking away stationarily and finally committing to the stupidity before topping off. It's aesthetic but wrong.

3 yr later as a much better climber. Feelsgoodman!

nice

Much easier than the thin one on the left

A bit broken but the jamming's all nice. Wumba ruins the os potential.

Pääpeli/johdanto, muutama metri hyvää kiipeilyä, itsetuhoisen alpinistin jalanjälkiä toppiin.

Paha sanoa greidistä, kun aika vähällä vaivalla meni sitten eikä suoritus kestänyt kauaa. Lämmin suositus Pohjois-Ruotsin Cafe Brutalelle jos tätä haluaa 20 m enemmän.

Joskus varmistanut.

Kiivetty osa joskus, kakkosteltu, teknottu ymym. OK otekiipeilyä, mutta ei suoranaisesti makuuni.

Kynsinauhamonokulttuuri. Monta helpompaa 7-:aa löytyy Kustavista kuin tämä ohut, liukas ja karmeasti toppaava hirvitys. Vaikeampi kuin yksikään kiipeämäni 6, vaikein kiipeämäni 6- (sans poikkarit). En tiedä mitkä strategiset mitat antavat tässä reitissä helpotusta. Greidiä voi arvioida jo sillä että Mikko Lähteenmäki on ottanut tältä ainakin kertaalleen turpaan vaikka toistonousi Ozone 55:n (7+). Saisi luultavasti enemmän trafiikkia jos arvio olisi edustavampi. Tikki vainosi vielä tunteja suorituksen jälkeen, kun autoseurueemme joutui pysähtymään huolestuttavan takareisikrampin takia. Tästä oiva Annunen-tikki esim. J Muotkalle!

Hieno. Alkuboulderi jäältä ja sisiliskoilua kaikessa yksinäisyydessä. Häntä ei mennyt katki, mutta musta totemi meni.

Tätä 2 km vertikaalisesti kiitos

Jäätä alla, aurinko yllä ja t-paita vieressä.

Season flash reinsertion jälkeen. Kelit aivan huippua vrt viime kesän paahteeseen. Hienoa kiipeilyä ja jäähdyttelyä. Kiitos kiipeily hienoista hetkistä. Hyvää urheilua.

Ylimielinen käsijammi ilman jammia koitui kohtaloksi ensimmäisessä muuvissa.

Sporttikengillä ei kampustelua

Päivän paras

Mikon Nemesiksen kanssa hyviä lasihommia

Vitsikästä ja liukasta

Alkuboulderilla ja loppusläbillä oli erityinen maine. Olin tuijotellut Erik Massihin kuvaa. Hieno reitti joskin makuuni jännittävästi varmistuva. Kultainen viikonloppu.

6a sporttikengillä, 6c jäykillä. Nemesis ja BD:n kamujen integriteetin arkkivihollinen on vihdoin kukistunut, vaan ei ilman viimeistä uhria: Futuroiden tarrakiinnitystä.

Vihdoin! Juustoraastimen ja ruuvipenkin läpi laulettuja tuutulauluja.

Moist climbing. Is it really that late in the year?? I refuse to comply!

Fantastic! The only part in this not being a three star route is a protection problem (flakey-loose-sandy 5 m part before a bouldery part). But if you're fine with protecting on loose stones, this one's a must climb.

Sandy unsafe boulder to excellent jamming

If Jesus was here today proclaiming the end of the world, I'd still recommend checking this hand crack first.

6b/+. Nice Masken-like finger blasting albeit in a shorter format.

A moderate classic! Aesthetical face and crack climbing. The top edge is a bit crumbly and the final centimeters of the finishing crack is occupied by a birch.

Some loose rock near the top when the climbing's done. Gear tends to swim in after the roof if you're not rocking hexes.

The obvious king line here. Easy jamming and hard resting. Incredible 30+ deg overhanging splitter crack climbing and at times bouldering. One of the most satisfying climbs I've done. I recommend you top out via the right. That way the the route stays clear of the nearby 6+ and you get to do the fantastic finale instead of guiltily jumping to a nearby ledge. During my os attempt I had no idea or ideals on where to do the top moves. In the end the difference between os and rp being one move :-(. Fantastic nonetheless.

Trad 7 but most likely max 6+ (6b-6c). Topped out via left. Dunno about the grading to be honest...

Hyllyjä ja pieniä piissejä.

Lenkkipopoissa

Tuntui h. vaikealta. Pitkä poika sanoi et helpolta.

Kattopätkä on mahtava ja sallisin samanlaista vielä toiset ja kolmannetkin 7 m. Saitti, joten vaikea rehellisesti arvioida greidiä. Tuskailen monen 6c+...7a-pätkän kanssa niin voi olla pienikätiselle 6c+kin. Kuulemma moni lapa on käynyt koittaan.

Vaikeammat vältteli tikkejä tänään

Hyvä reitti! Olin joskus nähnyt kiipeilyä. Kävin vasemmallakin mutta toppi oli niin oksaisa että päätin olla mönkimättä. Topissa näin tarkemmin.

Ei ollu betaa mut tiesin lapsilukosta.

Hyvä ja monipuolinen läpsyttely

Pieni nahkauhri ja sitoutuminen toisen varalta

Luulin olevani paska, mut reitti olikin konstikas

Yhden muuvin ihme

Vaikea varmistaa niin että varmistuksista on hyötyä. Helpompia gorilloja on tullut kiivettyä. 6/6+?

Toppi voi olla irti. Mika Ahlbergin julkisen 27-profiilin haamu harjasi.

Hyvä reitti lenkkareissa. Kiipeilykenkien kans varmasti kamalaa. Tämän jälkeen taivas aukes ja kaikki oikeat reitit jäi ukkospilven alle.

Hieno reitti ja joka sentti kiipeilyntäyteistä greidiin sopivaa hömpsöttelyä

Nopein reitti toppiin?

Irtonainen blokki on irti ja vei varmistajan paidan mukanaan.

Belayed JM back when I had a toe injury. Now back with a vengeance after a much more serious injury and still managed to not poop or tilt during the moments of non-protection (ie. the route). Fun and not fun at all.

Med AJ. The usual. And fuck the jump! There was a course so the rappel setup took a while.

Med AJ. Managed not to lose a yellow totem via a rappell. Saw some greedy canadian eyeing it already, ffs. Climbed the first pitch via slab, then downclimbed and did the corner aswell.

Med AJ. The first pitch was nice and after the obvious harder than N5 move the climbing remained fun. Confusing as hell to look at the two routes next to each other and try to believe this one to be easier than the double hand size crack. Glad there was an error in the topo!

Med AJ. Did the Eagle's nest /direct finish. Felt at most like N6-, definitely not N6+.

Betaherkkä, raskas varmistaa, liukas, paikoin ohut ja kipeä. Vammasta huolimatta projektoin ja tuntui selvästi vaikeammalta kuin useampi Kustavi 6b+/6c. Varmaan yhtä vaikea tai jopa kestävyydeltä vaikeampi kuin viereinen. Reittikuvaus hämmentää.

Toukokuun 6 vko pop tikki. Karmeaa scheibaa, vaan ei kiipeily.

Hieno reitti. Alku ahdistava. Joskus aiemmin eka toppi.

Hyvähän tää oli

Aiemmin yrkkä. Nyt kostea fläsy.

Tuntui ainakin yhtä hankalalta kuin Gravitas, mutta vaikeammin napattavilla kruksipannuilla. Varmistin pelkillä pulteilla, kun alkukamat jää niin sivuun.

First go. Better than the original and closer to grade 6(-).

First third wet. Not prolly as tough as 6b? No idea.

TR 2016. Now with a #8.

ok

Nice but short. Appears wet but isn't.

A real featherbag if there ever was one. Well protected.

Someone's jammed hex blocks a hand jam.

Med J. P2 & P4. Lost the P3 lottery! Descent prolly possible via left hand side topping out Nubben. We did a gully down climb via the right (c. 100 m?). Probably not a good idea.

Jauhamista ja jyrskytystä, höyryn karkaamista saumakohdista. Sinne sovittamaton ihmiskappale tekeytyy erilaisiksi täyteaineiksi ja kiilakiviksi faasi faasilta sykli toisensa jälkeen. Hienointa ja pöyristyttävintä halkeamakiipeilyä pitkään aikaan. Pelkkä alkulipalle menon muisto aiheuttaa moottoroitua perhossiipien pyrinää vatsassani. Jyrkkää ja ylimielistä. Ulkonäöllisesti Revenne pienoiskoossa. Ankkuripulttien rei'ille (missä pultti?) saavuttuani vaihtoehtoina oli kiivetä sammal-havuinen otteeton - tai halutessasi jalaton - traverse viereiseen Hoikka poika ja isot vehkeet -reittiin tai ninjailla oikealle ja kömpiä ylös laelle kohti puita. Noudatin topolinjaa mukaillen jälkimmäistä. Hyvin hyvin kevyesti liidissä harjattu. Greidiarvioon voi hyvin vaikuttaa pienien kuumien hikisten kätösten valuminen, pöly, muutaman vuoden pelokas odottelu ja lika, mutta kyllä tämä toistaiseksi topakkaa oli 6c:ksi. Kiitos rakkaalle kaimalle ensinoususta!

Tää se varmaan oli. Kaksi säkkiä ja pilli. Tikkikorjaus 5/2021

Kuka on käyttänyt minun aurinkorasvaani? En minä, sanoi Säkkipilli. En minä, sanoi Trumpetti. Enkä minä, sanoi Sähköpaimen. Pitempi, paksumpi ja vähemmän poimuilevampi kuin Hopian veljensä. Rehellistä jammailua. Loppu jää käteen.

Pasuuna, armbars, cupping, fist jamming. A loose flake partially inside the crack at 2/3 height. Leap frogged my ass off. A little extra help from +31 C and direct sunlight. No beer at the top.

Upgrade in rock quality brings a downgrade in quality. Nice first half! More 6b+/6c?

OS after managing to get on the route. So a bitter -1 stars for having a roll-the-dice slippery sit start. Heard another guy take a whipper on it so thought it could be a sandbag - it's not. Fun climbing!

Not harder than Kirnu. On a very sunny day. The fat crack was clean, but the top dihedral was even more filthy than our two man tourist climbing team. I had to climb with a brush clenched between my teeth to clean and then down climb before in the end committing to mossy smears with a near one third of a route run-out over a shelf. Did some cleaning (without a wire brush) on rappel and now the top part is properly protectable and enjoyable again. Definitely worth the visit!

Deficiencys in basic techniques cost a go. Would be a grade classic even at Bohuslän!

Vain 1 tähti katkonaisuuden takia

Luistava reitti! Kusetusta, huukki, drop knee ja purevaa halkeamaa.

Näyttää julmalta, varmistuu erikoisesti, mutta onkin enempi tyylikästä kuin karkeaa itsensä vahingoittamista.

Med JR

The first Dum came loose on my lead go. So only Dah-Dum from today on. Rock quality still piss poor. Otherwise nice.

Insecure. Harder than Villi länsi?

Quality jamming

6 with cahones/6+ with small gear, pro3. Physically easier than most of the 6+'s I've come across. And there's in no way a full number grade difference between this and Mylläri.

Prolly hard 5+ if it saw more traffic. All in all excellent crack climbing!

40 min set of enjoying the domestic classic. The ground up struggle lasted c. 18 minutes. A Haukkari-like midway rehydration would have been much appreciated.

Pro3 for sure. Gear near lip, sparse and crumbly. Nice moves though.

Or 6-?

It untied my laces

I want to speak with the manager of Pärkänvuori

The best chimney so far

A fun little adventure

Technical, varied, continuous. Worth climbing for pretty much everybody. Today felt straightforward, satisfying.

Steep, thin jamming! Jätte bra.

Dunno how you can 5+ this up!

Soft but excellent slightly overhanging handcrack

Had 2nded

I can't just downgrade everything nice

Excellent splitter and creepy finale

Nobody knew cracks could be so cold

pro2 makes it much more strenuous than Arpi

Perfect outing, terrible route!

Thank you climate change, I guess.

Poor rock quality.

Tempting. What feels a bit too much like inverted top rope. Can't recommend the crumbly rapakivi. So closer to pro4.

Wet and crumbly

TR back in the day. Quality climbing!

Good climbing all the way

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I miss my C3

Dirty, dark, sometimes unprotected

Great climb. Dampness did lessen some of the climbing for me.

Luppio was a nice place. Easy access and plenty of climbing. Visual. Not too scary. Climbs well even though done under constant threat of rain.

As a (very small) part of Ersfjord traversen. Loose and monotone.

Med PJ. Led tutti! Climbing was easy (except the chimney with a back pack) and of high quality. Descent painful as ever. Saw a guy who'd done it 70+ times.

Kustavi derby

Kustavi derby. A precarious pro2.

Kustavi derby

Kustavi derby. Bad ideas have taken place on this route.

Kustavi derby

Kustavi derby. Feels like climbing.

Kustavi derby. Closer to pro3 than pro1.

Kustavi derby

Kustavi derby

Kustavi derby. Hard 6- or am I just spoiled?

Kustavi derby. Afterwards we had some mate.

Kustavi derby. Restricting movement brings out the fun in climbing.

Kustavi derby. A few jams.

Kustavi derby

Kustavi derby

Kustavi derby. Enjoyable!

Kustavi derby

Kustavi derby

Kustavi derby. The route where I found out the truth about Storpillaren.

Kustavi derby

Kustavi derby

Kustavi derby

Cooldown after warmup!

Perfect fit for my pelvis. Slime coated.

Terrifying

Considerably easier than Aurinkomyrsky. Nest was empty this time of year.

Climbable even in the first minutes of a shower. Beta from T & M.

Daunting profile, fun moves.

Tuomas led P1, I P2. Mystery guest followed both pitches. P1 was much more enjoyable.

2nd pitch a bit dirty, not very continuous, even a bit harder than P1!

2nd go with first failing due to fear and slippage. Not too exhausting or painful at all. Overlooked for sure. Much more enjoyable than first appears to be and definitely will recommend this one.

Had done the isolated cracks before.

Featherbag?

Alluringly visual. Somehow uncomfortable to protect. Nice climbing!

Hurt myself on this a couple of years ago.

Two year wait paid off!

Season flash! Couldn't figure out the feet in 2018.

Slippery, hard, bouldery, loose

Boulder problem not included in the grade in true Kustavi style?

Worth the walk!

When I finally got it on my n:th attempt I found myself using the very same beta as on my OS attempt. It was all a matter of hand size for me. The disappointment rubbed off some of its otherwise worthy star rating.

Maybe followed this earlier or smth?

A slip in the dark and a headlamp hit the ground.

Linked from Ungdoms Slövsinn. The too-Messnerian-for-me connecting slab traverse was the most interesting part.

Beautiful, varied, mentally taxing

P1

Som kallas Lapsilukko. If you like cutting feet and chimneys.

Was supposed to follow this one, but partner got the jitters, established an anchor stand and belayed from the dead tree up.

Expected it to be easier. Cruxing on my poorest piece of pro.

I like that big tree. Maybe one year it really is too dead for rappel.

Another one where the difference between OS and RP is pretty substantial

Fun and skinwise unfriendly

Nice jamming on painful texture

Lätt until it's painful

Varied and imaginative

Lovely crack climbing way higher than I'm used to

The first half is crazy good!

Exciting not knowing what's up there. Worth the wait and multiple recommendations.

My first 3+!

Looks daunting but is not

Nice moves

Humbling

Viimeisiltä jäiltä.

Local 6b-6b+. Our strong (by my standards) three-man-one-dog group spent a little time on this. Managed to weigh the rope on basically everything else on this trip.

Fun for all genders

Someone said this might be a 6-. The area was swarming with first ascenders. I didn't dare say "6-". Definitely most Kustavi 6-'s are harder. Even Hirven kallo might be harder.

Great slow climbing

Was a bit dirty. Sorry for not cleaning it up properly.

Danced a bit, was perplexed, and appropriately enough the solution freshly emerged was ridiculous and unlikely. Would not have wanted to fall on that rock quality though. Later I've learned there's another way to do the problem... but screw those guys!

Quite strenuous to OS. 2nd go was much much easier. Think I need a bit more time with mushrooms.

A little on the short side. The route that didn't test my placements today.

In the dark the huge chock stone/boulder seemed more detached than it is. Also a loose jug at the beginning. Dunno 'bout this one.

It's a big day out. Kind of told myself and my partner this is the biggest it can be allowed to get if we are to do this sort of thing (and be alive). Can't believe we idiots did it on 0,5 liters of water per person. At times though even that felt too much to drink. And perhaps it's not really an alpine route since we (only barely) didn't hallucinate on the descent. Anyway, the first pitch is rubbish as evident from all the bailing gear at the anchor area. After that it's super exposure in otherwordly surroundings, inventive well protected long pitches on excellent friction, solid rock (until the final easier pitches of Vestveggen) and to top it all you get to debate which is harder: to lead or to carry the backpack. On Vesteggen, instead of the hidden crack, we climbed the more photogenic helicopter variation naturally by accident and stubbornness. It's a N7 by topo, but I think in reality it's more N6+ or N7-. For the finish we couldn't find the exit hole, only an illusion of an exit hole. So we soon found ourselves quite seriously stemming in cramped positions face down on mud. After the whole episode and many hours of descending we took a swim and went to bed. It really was a beauty. Only the photos and shared opinions keep me from taking this all as a vision. Take the three stars only as rough guide.

Excellent thin climbing. Too bad someone peed on the ledge. Also what's with the "fixed anchor"! Trusted my #0 C3 more than that brother. Had also the opportunity to lead some Vestpillaren pitches at the end. So I truly was in for a treat.

The first pitch was probably the hardest.

Sometimes the rock is cruxy, sometimes boring, but always rotten in this one.

I don't know how sub 6 climbing can be this exciting.

The second pitch felt pretty hard for a N5+. Felt more like a Kustavi 5+. Climbing for hindsight drooling.

Thin hands great joy

Might be overlooked. Was the only route for the day as even I understood the skyfall made future climbing unreasonable.

Fun times especially in hindsight

Some excellent moves. After that it's barely spectacular.

med J

Joskus kauan sitten kiivetty joten pvm miten sattuu. En muista varmistinko eka.

If you're not on lead, you can go wild with the stemming!

Almost had a grounder with this one as two good X4's ripped. Lesson learned: will not place two cams where they can potentially tangle up with each other.

A special route for me. First time a solo camalot was tested by my falling body. So it goes.

Mind the shelf!

With the finish of Joukahainen perhaps a +?

A couple of loose blocks. Not worth it in my opinion.

Had a mid size cam walk a meter into the rock. Then a miracle happened on rappel.

Excellent!

A good warmup route

6a or a+.

2nd go. Somehow thought I could climb it. Still not sure.

Material for stories as usual: Slippery scramble, so attached to the rope only after my partner was on the wall with a solid piece between us. I linked two pitches poorly and ended up on a crux behind a corner with rope in my mouth and a 0.1 X4 as protection. In the end it started raining and we pulled in some slack since not long before us some party had spent 17 h on the wall for similar reasons. During descent partner took a swim in what turned out to be closer to mud than water... for general purification.

Lead only the first pitch. For me that was scary enough. My god the second was a fight. Don't want to go back there. A year later I still haven't experienced anything like it in terms of fatigue and loss of goodwill.

At times dangerous approach. At times dangerous descent. Cloudberries. Dry cool air. I liked the total sum.

Great introduction to offwidths. All technique.

Fell on starting holds... A great route none the less!

I love this

This one is brutal. BYOB.

Incredible value for the grade

Lots of loose pebble at the top. Bring a helmet for your partner.

Figured out the beta during futile ground-up, took a rest belaying a partner at Viimeinen tykkimies and then came success.

Excellent, slippery, painful. And the rest of the route is great as well.

Short but fun. OW always a delight.

If only there was a 300 meter version of it.

A good tr warmup route. It's a classic Halsvuori line but too simple climbingwise in my opinion.

If only the route was longer

This one gave me the heel-toe-cam and with it the ability to rest in cracks of such size. Much appreciated.

Pulled the final moves in the rain. I remember it being very intense for a 6-.

The route that made me want to climb trad.