Pauli M

"Yö ja päivä" - taivas ja vasara! Ilman tuplahalailukykyä.

Oikeastin hienoa släbikiipeilyä! Directissä revin jonku fleikin puolikkaan irti ja melkein dekkasin niin päätin sit liittyä edellisten herrojen jammaavaan seuraan.

Mikan sairauspaikkaustikki

Harder than Vanskapt: more insecure, more crimpy, more physical

Felt clean and easy after a quick hold check

Rainy day fun

Was too tired for the alpine goodness (KK & MJ). P1 before the rain.

After the boulder

Hieno ja herkkä hiippailu!

Rest day left crack eliminate. One foot move wonder.

Jalkapohjat tulessa ja vannoen ettei ikinä enää

Hieno pikku boulderi! Ekan kerran muistan hämärästi klipanneeni jatkon tähän 5+ v sit.

Läpsyttelysaittiyrkkä tuotti läpsäytyksen

Sisäkulmasta. Joskus 5 v sit edellinen yrkkä jolloin kukaan ei saanu hanuria ylös maasta. Ekat muuvit olkapäitä kuntouttavia, otteet pieniä ja irtoilevia, eka jatko kiipeilyasennon kannalta ahdistavassa paikassa.

Boulder. Kallion paras?

Ei verta, ei hikeä, ei kyyneliä. Olutta, järvivettä ja sylkeä. Hyvä pikku reitti, joka kyykytti minua ja sormieni ihoa.

Hieno ja katkeransuloinen rp

Slimepiece

After years of waiting and approving of the word play!

Ootte harhoissanne! Pölyistä epämääräistä liukastelua! Meinasin sanoa että muualla satoi, mutta niin satoi täälläkin. Oli ikävä Parasta linjaa.

Hyvä reitti ja vielä parempi yrkkä herra Kumilta. Vuosia sitten kokeiltu ja kasvanut korkoa hampaankolossa.

Mukavaa tasatahtista touhua, kuvitteellisesta merituulesta nautiskelua ja illan oluesta haaveilua.

Kitkerää kipeää kutkuttavaa kiipeilyä. Kiivetessä en tiennyt toistamattomuudesta!

Annoying indeed!

Hienompi mielestäni kuin ässä. Neitsytvalotus jossa muistin kruksibetan vasta nostettuani päätä kruksissa.

Kova reitti! Siirtymä reittien välillä heikentää kokonaisarvosanaa "vain" 2 tähteen. En muistellut loppua ja ylimielisyys oli kostautua kun väänsin kruksin ohi valeotteella.

Virka-ajan jälkeen kuolemanriskisi kasvaa. Kolmen pultin ja ankkurin kohdalla tonttipannumahkut. Kaveri toi mustan totemin että vasta uskalsin nousta ensimmäiselle pultille todella urheilulliseen klippausasentoon. Varmistaja on hyllyllä, tontti viettää ja pultti on korkealla. Jonkun pultin klippasin sokkona. Yksittäinen lukkomutteri, muutama kiipeilyn jäljiltä sormikireä mutteri ja pyörivä hangeri (muk. luk. ankkuri). Itse kiipeily olisi jossain toisaalla 6c...7a akselilla. Todella jatkuvan napakkaa, hienoja eksoottisia muuveja kantin ympärillä intuitiivisesti pyörien sekä nykyaikaisittain gym climber -sukupolvelle erittäin härskit pulttivälit.

Nice consolation prize!

The quick drive-by between showers

First rivet is a bit too high for a safe onsight. The practical weight limit on the holds eliminates the super tall beta!

More a route than its neighbor!

After too much rain

Could be a nice trad route if not for the rock quality. A misplaced bolt on top? Ankare looked suspicious.

Felt stiff with a hurt toe

Hard and thin. A lot of blind pulling on slopey crimps and dislocating some crystals near fingertip while trusting the lichen below the boot. Rest of the routes suffer more from vegetation at the top which unfortunately is at times overhung but climbs like a slab.

Crumbly rock and one bolt in a rock scar. Otherwise nice and pumpy.

Clipped the chains before a harmonica intermediate hold was atomized by Keijo Kumi. Easy to blow the os in a sea of bad edges.

Season flash in futile preparation for Thanatos. Prolly tried this in 2017-2019? No recollection. Atleast the second half was full madonna onsight.

Garbage route made by oily midgets. My pal took out a jug on his burn and if I hadn't belayed on the right, I'd be dead or blind.

...syntyy jos ote tai pultti irtoaa.

Kiipesin jostain aivan mudasta 6c+:aa

Ehkä softimpi ku 7b kun tokalla meni? Hieno släbi kuitenkin ja murensin osani jalkaotteista.

Napataatan muuveja ihastellessa

Nonii. Kaks kautta kusi sormivammaan ja lyhyeen valoisaan aikaan, aikaisiin sateisiin ja viime kausi covidiin ja nyt melkein taas vammaan. 3 kk pop tikki ja kepeää menoa kruksin ohi, jossa sain muistella otteita ja menneitä märkiä sekä pimeitä. PTSSÄÄÄÄH!

Hauska sporttinen pulttireitti

Eka yri. Olisin ollut jojon ydin pudotessani.

Viides misteri? 7a mutta spaidermäniin vrt 7a+...

Vaikea, liukas ja ahdistavasti pultattu. Selkeästi hankalampi ku esim. Magma. Loppu lienee mahdollinen direktinä mutta tuo lisää ahdistusta pöytään.

Loppu ihan jees, alku kans, hylly ei.

Marrastikki

2 stars for the route and the third (absolutely) for the climbing at the first 0-2 bolts.

Using the 6a beta

Hard warmup! Very nice climbing

Perus 6c

Paras reitti Kostean huohotuksen ja Helteen ekan välissä! --- And in English: eats your skin.

Tämän reitin tähtiarvio perustuu täysin Mika Ahlbergin julkiseen 27-profiiliin.

As one

A bolted hand sized crack system. Climbs nicely after the weetabix in the beginning.

Joskus 2020 kiivetty ja oli kuulemma vitonen.

Midsummer power beta

Knowing what to do softens this one up nicely

A short and simple crack. Enjoyable nonetheless. The crack itself is prolly 6a.

Harder than Pala palalta (6c). Excellent! Reminds me of Nu moon (Haukkakallio).

3 years a to-do. Finally back and route checked off... 'twas nice.

Personal nemesis from back when. I'm still unsure whether there's an easier beta for my reach. Struggled considerably more than at Laudatur.

Enticing bulges

TR back when...

Super nice looking line. Didn't understand where to place the #1 Camalot. No need IMO. Followed the chalk.

The best warmup in the area

Mossy/dirty shelves made this one a bit harder. Gave a scrub.

Bushy finish avoided by doing harder moves on the face

Hard to read, fingery

1st with a stick-clipstick

Absurd venue

It's up there

One of the best french 5'ers I've climbed

Excellent beta intensive juggy climbing. Wasn't my day. Spent the rest of it redpointing either recovering too little or forgetting the foot beta. Best attempt failed at twisted quickdraw at crux so I didn't understand to give up. Next time will work more!

Overall much easier than General Lee. I still think it might be 6b+/6c because of the factor mentioned in the route name...

Sustained all the way. Exciting though not terrible bolting. Felt very pretty much how I'd imagined intermediate sport climbing to be.

More 6b than most of the nearby 6b's. I was tired but still.

Scary bolting: a bit sparse and as an extra spice placed slightly to the left of the line. Otherwise great climbing.

Had some excellent beta for the first 2 bolts!

Had bailed on the beginning before. Now with a preplaced quickdraw.

Nice footwork if you don't have the strength

What a pleasant surprise!

The first 4 bolts made for nice climbing

Very nice textures and contours. The climbing was fun too although missing the anchor might lead to some rope burns.

Nice but a bit short

Misdrawn?

Not 5+ or 6b

Misdrawn?

Climbs a bit like an eliminate.

Varied, continuous, semi-obvious line. Prolly the best here!

Blåberget was wet so came here and warmed up on this. Reminds me a bit of Patamankallio, JKL.

Stereotypical sport climbing. Multiple years of dreaming. Fell on the final jug yesterday. Today felt strong, forgot the beta midway, tried again on dry holds, recalled the intermediate hold, no mosquitoes, light breeze, morning coffee, no arrogance, mild pump. A little toilet paper at the top left by the locals to redirect the seepage.

Onsighted after the first foot hold... Cleaned it (for proper 10 seconds) for everyone else to enjoy. First corner in adventure climbing condition. The climbing itself was excellent and much more sustained than Ylimarkku. As expected a hard 6c from Nytorp. Belayer beware of the spacing.

Fun to read. Damp conditions in the beginning and a slip would have been terrible.

Resty, crimpy, thin feet.

The middle part is the fun one and even that's over in a foot swap.

No stars since the climbing is over so soon. Hard to clip the anchors if you don't commit.

A fun little dance. Perhaps a 6a+ if you climb it sans hybris.

7a/+ Excellent, varied. A beautiful line. Once it gets going there's only clipping the anchors or falling.

Broke a nice gaston. Now there is no escape from the crimping.

Satisfying slab climbing with a semi crumbly wumba beginning. No big moves. "Top edge."

Misleading damp smears are laughing at your flappers.

A treatise on what it would be like to not know or see any holds further than one meter from you

No wonder I couldn't do it

Oisko turvallisempi vappuna? Most pleasing streched out positions!

Clipping the first bolt felt good

Crawling finale. It's as hard as +2C atleast with the 2019 holds. A bolt on top would seduce more climbers.

A lot of fun for the length. Without the arete.

Fell on this a year or so ago. Continuously calf intensive.

Couldn't commit on the OS

I hate these dual texture cruxes.

The line was not very obvious.

There was no dyno (or catches with the pinky.)

Chalk and snow mixed with water and rubber. Barely made any sense.

I always wanted to climb this one for the name alone. The experience was much more positive (than was implied).

I remembered it as a much steeper route.

Late in the season ("-2C").Of course it happened on the day I managed to fumble the moves #2 to #4 in successive order in warmup. Expectations were quite low. Don't know why I tried it on lead. Anyways, more and more climbers consider this a Tampere gem.

I enjoyed the Kynnenleikkaaja move more than a simple (spoiler alert) deadpoint.

I found it more painful and insecure compared to the recent 6c's I've been climbing. Failed the os as accidentally flagged on a bolt. Still had to work it a bit. After figuring out the secure-ish sequence I found myself at the sharp end still improvising a new sequence. Life is weird and climbing is fun.

Much easier and less continous than Vompatti. The actual fun part is quite short.

Solidi might be a hard 6b. This is way harder. Easier 6c's are to be found in Tampere. Though my opinion might be compounded by the limited availability of dry and moss free holds. But what great movement they forced!

Great route. Tried the beginning in 2016. What a pumpy adventure the climby part was!

The pine tree might say hello a couple of times at the last clip.

The first moves on the route are good but even better is on the way! Fell on the start like many others.

I love Sidney Lumet! (2nd go bragging rights)

Expected it to be more of a consolation, but it was quite alright!

A dynamic entry into a bunch of knobs.

Flashed the crux. Had done the boulder before. A fun little move.

Viitapohja at its best?

Used to feel impossible. Now was quite alright.

Can't really recommend. Ty for the bolts... I guess?!

A good one!

Referring to Juri Matinheikki's wise words. The route is a whole lot easier with pre placed 2nd quickdraw. Had to succumb.

Superb and varied route. Totally unexpected. Some loose rock. Atleast without any hidden holds it was closer to 6b+ than 6b.

After wetting ourselves on the flooding Solens sønner the day before

Fun moves. Not too hard. TR until I was sure not to weigh any of the rusty bolts.

Prolly the easiest route here.

2nd go. Magnificient climbing.

Klassikkoainesta!

An excellent 6c

Most of it is solid two star climbing. A bit of wumba before a bolt ruins the 2nd star for me. At the ballet I prefer not to be scarred.

It sometimes starts raining when I climb

As summarized by a friend: if this route exemplified climbing at any local crag, that crag would have a healthy supply of happy climbers. To this day (11/2018) I can only think of a single 5...5+ route that equals this in fun factor.

Nice location, nice line, climbs nice!

How come all these short routes end up seeming so vast when trying hard.

I think I'd used some of the holds before. A fun slab.

Failed the OS as I didn't register the hold before the hold. Somewhere between local 6b+ and 6c.

Probably Rämö's best route. Excellent friction. Reasonable bolting. Suits different styles. Best climbed during the afternoon.

The route I had my first vertical lead attempt on. In hindsight I can understand the grade 5+, but really, it's as hard as Umpipari and Yksiö, but more serious.

Many different styles - a beautiful line in terrific surroundings. What makes climbing fun special fun? Is it possible to extract the answer? 2nd go.

A couple of hard moves, dirty top and a rest too good. Basically a 6 meter multi pitch. Still a fun line!

Kekseliäs ja jatkuva

Date not exact. The name suits the route perfectly.

Good moves on nice rock interspersed by too much rest.