Anthony Gullsten

Absolute dream route 🙌

Cool moves with good holds. Rock quality is not the greatest.. Maybe even 7C+? 🤔🤷‍♂️

The most obvious start 👍

Thanks Wille for making the topo and sharing this cool location!

5/5 dream line 💎

8b+/c? Maybe a bit easier than American Hustle and Fish eye. Stellar climb!

Perfect beta by young blood Mikael Suihkonen👌

Such a cool sequence on the first crux!!

What a mission! had to fight all the way 💪

Such cool holds! The start felt really hard for me... And I even managed to punt once from the end :'D

Really cool sequence when you're not so tall 😁

🚀

BOLD

One of the best traverses in Rocklands? Simple yet delicate, I like it!

Thought I could never do this one because I couldn't hold the pinch... Guess I just had to try really really hard :D

Perfect crimp ladder!

Maybe a night session on this wasn't the best idea... :D Super committing last move!

5/5

Tried to jump at first, but unfortunately I found this other beta that worked better in the heat.. Still need to go do it the jump way! Such a fun move!

Sit start; left hand on slopy rail and right hand on good crimp.

Starts on the good hold in the middle of the wall to the right of Dementia and goes left to join the same top. Weird low percentage move that feels quite desperate in the beginning... ;)

Battled with finding the correct beta. Came up with a really funky way to do the bottom part :D In the end didn't feel too bad, but at first it felt reaaally hard.. Got to appreciate the intricacies that Font has to offer.

Fun climbing intro to Atresie. Worth climbing after you've done all the Big 5!

Maybe a tad harder than Mecanique elementaire?

First time seeing this massive roof not too far from Fontainebleau. And it was as good as it looks, if not better! Took me a bit of time to find the best possible methods on acte 1 and especially acte 2. Can't do many mistakes when starting from the start... Surprised myself by climbing the whole thing on my first try getting to the nohands rest! I'll have to come back on another trip to try the harder finish that Alban Levier put up ;)

Took me some time to finally do this one... First tried with my foot on the starting hold, but doing it "rainbow rocket"-style turned out to be the way!

Had to fight hard! Link to the video of the ascent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8fp0PR3qsM&t=21s

Got my souvenir on my last day of the trip!

Last time I tried this, it felt impossible. Now all it took was a few tries! Surprise send with headlamps 👌

Harder than the other 8As nearby

Now the full line! Climbs so much better than it looks :D

First day of the trip. Surprised myself with this one!

Straight up from the jugs of 'Hypergravity'. 2 move wonder

Start low and right. Right hand on a slopy rail and left hand in a good vertical crack.

Totally different style to what you usually get in Ceuse. Instead of pockets, you get crimps! Not too steep, but very continuous climbing all the way through. Was impressive to see Alex Megos dispatch this one with such ease. Good times!

A lot of work went into this one.. And I don't mean the climbing, but everything else that's involved. The landing was absolutely horrible before we moved this rock that weighed almost a ton. Brushing the holds, finding the right beta, finding even better beta, drying wet holds etc. It all made for an unforgettable experience..

Last day in the forest.. Feeling absolutely trashed!!! :D Took me a while to find the beta for the end, and it took me even longer to figure out the start. Really cool climbing on slick rock. Perfect when you don't have skin to spare ;)

I feel like the direct finish is as hard as the left one.. Hence 8B

Had a real big day! First went to Rocher des Prince and did Ouroboros, then moved on to Potala and did Surplomb de la mee, and for the final destination Recloses where I first did Narcotic direct after quite some work finding the bodypositions, then sent this long thing as the last thing. Feeling pretty wrecked right now... :D

8A+/B

Got pretty close on the sit! Fell a couple times just before the lip.. Had to give up and just do the stand instead :)

2 days last fall and now 3 days to finish this absolute beauty! Incredible boulder! Not just how it looks, but also how it climbs. The movements made the process of working it a whole lot more fun. Now what?!?

What a relief to finally put this one down... Such a hard move!!! No need to come back here EVER again :D

Mini pinch was key to success! Yet another project ticked off. Sipoo is the place to be ;)

Took me a while to figure out the beta for this one. Tricky and powerful!

The full line! Climb Hypergravity 8B into The Wave 8B with a decent rest in between. Hard to grade. Let's see what others will say. It was supposed to be my big project close to home, but completely out of the blue I sent the damn thing! Happy, but also a bit disappointed that it's over..

Totally unexpected! :D

Very subtle, yet powerful! Scary landing...

Slipped off from the last pocket on my flash try... Daaaaamn close! Sent it on the next go with the quickness ;) Never 8c.... If even 8b+

Retroflash whilst putting the draws

Pure static lock off. 2nd ascent I think?

Tried it one day earlier this trip, but it was way too warm and I couldn't figure out the beta. Today I tried it again open minded and found a better foot sequence for the feet on the jump. "When in trouble, dyno double". Perfect end for the trip!!!

Extremely exposed feeling at the belay and especially on the wall.. Felt like a new experience! Geil!

What a fight yet again. Almost gave up, but decided to try once more. Hard and insecure crux! 8c/+

Warm up go. Such an obvious line!

Sooo many moves to remember.... Race against the sun.

Climbed it the original way from the right. It's a shame that you can skip the crux from the left. Still a proud line!

8b+/c. Surprise send! I hadn't really checked all the moves properly, so I wanted to try the moves again and ended up at the anchor. Used some on the fly spontaneous beta!

Has everything I desire in a route.

Luckkkky! Could have easily taken me a lot longer, but somehow managed to stick the moves! Incredible.

8c/+. Epic fight on this one... It was around +25 degrees and I just kept sweating off the wall. Took some tries!

8c/+. Really hard to say when it's so specific and revolves on one move. Those holds are perfect!

Thank you Jeremy for showing me this one. One of the best routes of the summer!!

Heartbreaker finish, but really good rock and climbing all the way

Hard boulder and committing climbing to the top. I now know why these routes are rarely repeated.

I really liked the boulder problem on this one!

Cool moves, but it's a shame that it's so heavily manufactured.

What an adventure....

Unique climbing once again! Slow and fast :)

Kiitti Eero! Oli hemmetin kiva päivä :)

Class

Really really smooth holds. Good thing, since I could barely feel my fingers..

Had an epic last time I tried this one.. Ripped a finger open on the pocket, and fell a couple times at the top. This time it went without a fight!

Compstyle jump with a techy finish. Rare find!

Blind slap! So funky :D

Perfect double dyno!

Hard. 'nuf said.

3rd try. Last day of the trip. 5 fingers taped up, but still had to climb something!

Chasing the sun ;)

Climbed it in the midday sun. What a nice feeling!

Did the moves once and sent on my next try! Get lucky! More like low end 8c, compared to other routes in Siurana.

2nd try

Felt Like I was going to fall on every single hard section of the climb :D

My first trad climb! Couldn't have chosen a better line to start with.

Accidentally broke a hold off in the middle... :/

Jumps back to back. Incredible find! Perfect boulder to end my trip.

Friction dependent. Hard with a taped finger. Great line at the Section!

One of the many gems in the Section.

8A+ is probably more appropriate. Don't think many climb this one?

Wooooooo!

Amazing holds at the topout!

Fun sequence coming out the roof. Shame it doesn't top out.

Perfect line with just enough holds.

Did it the tall mans way. No kneebar, but still skipped a move.

Unique!!

Spiky jug!

Felt harder than the Vice

Had a fun session on this one. Once you know what to do it's not that bad. Committing end!

I got some really good beta from the Norwegian crew when they worked on it. When I went for the flash try I executed the moves perfectly. It almost felt surreal.

Sitstart to Out of Balance. Makes the end a bit harder.

Climbs way better than what it looks.

Dream line!

Almost held the swing on my flash try..

Short and powerful! It was sketchy topping the slab ending with a headlamp in the dark.

Hard intro move into Splash of red

Despite all the controversy that revolves around the bolts on the route, I found the route to be amazing. One of a kind crux sequence, and I didn't see any problem with the bolt placements. Sure, it's scary to fall from the crux, but you are definitely not going to deck. Not even close...

Cool Ninja kick!

One of the coolest holds in granite!

Finally the arete wasn't covered in ice! Sharp holds in the beginning, but it's cool and continuous climbing all the way with an incredibly smooth arete ;)

Almost didn't even try this thing because I couldn't brush the snow from the middle ledge. The slopers on the left were icy, so I had to climb it a bit differently. Such a freak move in the beginning with the heel. Unique!

2nd try, ground up, scared shitless at the top since I didn't really know what to do, couldn't feel my fingers and the top was a teeny tiny bit icy. Haven't been that nervous in a looong time! What a thrill! Couldn't or wouldn't have pulled this off without the 3 extra pads from the British crew. Cheers!

Nicer ending than on Cosmos!

Had to fight against the forces of nature. Took me around 2 hours to clean the top out from 20cm of snow and after I got it somewhat dry, the wind blew the snow back onto the holds. Frustrating.... Ended up putting a towel on the holds to keep them from getting snowed on. Worked like a charm! Used a heel hook instead of a toe. I still don't know how to toe hook..

After a little bit of beta testing it went quite fast. Felt harder than other 8A+ here.

2nd go since I flashed Zarzaparrilla

All on the heel. Cool swing! Could be 8A+?

Blew my flash on the heel... oh noes! Didn't make the same mistake twice. Pasos físicos!