Anthony Gullsten

Absolute dream route 🙌

8b+/c? Maybe a bit easier than American Hustle and Fish eye. Stellar climb!

Perfect beta by young blood Mikael Suihkonen👌

Such a cool sequence on the first crux!!

What a mission! had to fight all the way 💪

Totally different style to what you usually get in Ceuse. Instead of pockets, you get crimps! Not too steep, but very continuous climbing all the way through. Was impressive to see Alex Megos dispatch this one with such ease. Good times!

Slipped off from the last pocket on my flash try... Daaaaamn close! Sent it on the next go with the quickness ;) Never 8c.... If even 8b+

Retroflash whilst putting the draws

Tried it one day earlier this trip, but it was way too warm and I couldn't figure out the beta. Today I tried it again open minded and found a better foot sequence for the feet on the jump. "When in trouble, dyno double". Perfect end for the trip!!!

Extremely exposed feeling at the belay and especially on the wall.. Felt like a new experience! Geil!

What a fight yet again. Almost gave up, but decided to try once more. Hard and insecure crux! 8c/+

Warm up go. Such an obvious line!

Sooo many moves to remember.... Race against the sun.

Climbed it the original way from the right. It's a shame that you can skip the crux from the left. Still a proud line!

8b+/c. Surprise send! I hadn't really checked all the moves properly, so I wanted to try the moves again and ended up at the anchor. Used some on the fly spontaneous beta!

Has everything I desire in a route.

Luckkkky! Could have easily taken me a lot longer, but somehow managed to stick the moves! Incredible.

8c/+. Epic fight on this one... It was around +25 degrees and I just kept sweating off the wall. Took some tries!

8c/+. Really hard to say when it's so specific and revolves on one move. Those holds are perfect!

Thank you Jeremy for showing me this one. One of the best routes of the summer!!

Heartbreaker finish, but really good rock and climbing all the way

Hard boulder and committing climbing to the top. I now know why these routes are rarely repeated.

I really liked the boulder problem on this one!

Cool moves, but it's a shame that it's so heavily manufactured.

What an adventure....

Unique climbing once again! Slow and fast :)

3rd try. Last day of the trip. 5 fingers taped up, but still had to climb something!

Chasing the sun ;)

Climbed it in the midday sun. What a nice feeling!

Did the moves once and sent on my next try! Get lucky! More like low end 8c, compared to other routes in Siurana.

2nd try

Felt Like I was going to fall on every single hard section of the climb :D

My first trad climb! Couldn't have chosen a better line to start with.

Despite all the controversy that revolves around the bolts on the route, I found the route to be amazing. One of a kind crux sequence, and I didn't see any problem with the bolt placements. Sure, it's scary to fall from the crux, but you are definitely not going to deck. Not even close...

I have always wanted to climb this ultimate classic! Ever since I saw the pictures of it. Get Lucky!

Combining two of my favorite things! Bouldering and Sportclimbing! It felt great to actually top this one out starting from the very bottom.

2nd try! It's amazing to climb here when it rains.

At first it felt easier, but after a few goes I still kept falling at the end. Surprisingly overhanging! Love the compression section at the end. Perfectly smooth rock quality after the somewhat harsh holds in the beginning. Bolted by Tatu Autio.

Harder than 'Veri Vetää Itään'

"Metsäläis-onsight" Cleaning the route from spider webs and moss while putting the quickdraws on.

Very cool! It's a shame the crag isn't bigger with more routes like this one. Hats off to Mr. Koski!

Really fun climbing on pockets. Airy at the crux!

Got some great beta from Roosa :)

Felt like crap on the flash try, but then managed to step up on my second try. Dynamic!

2nd try

Unlocked a new sequence for the bottom. Felt less tweaky this way. Fell at the very top because my hand slipped from the very last crimp. It is warm to climb! Fortunately I had one more good go and got passed the crux and didn't fail at the top. One session. Score! 8c+?

2nd try

Got good beta from Pamunator!

First route of the trip. Pump guaranteed.

2nd go

2nd try. Awesome dynamic moves!

Took me a couple tries to figure out the best way up. First time that I had to tape my fingers for jamming! Bolted by Joonas Sailaranta.

Hard beginning and some cool moves in the middle. The ending is crap though... Filmed the route with Alvi!

An excellent new addition bolted by a local. Much gratitude!

The mythical 9a! First Finn to climb one, psyched! Like a wise man once told me: "It's all jugs, bro."

Mäkkiateria ja leffe!

Yess!! Definetly one of my biggest achievements to date. Finland's hardest sport route. It's bouldery, continuous, pumpy and has wicked moves. :) So happy! 3rd ascent.

Has some slightly sharpish holds, but it doesn't matter when the moves are great! 3rd ascent, and first after a hold broke?

Felt harder than the other 8b's I've climbed. It was also a lot more fun to climb. Freaky and physical moves without any good rest. Glad to have done this! :) 3rd ascent?

Wasn't the best conditions today. A few damp holds right in the crux... But anyways, fun climbing with small holds and tricky movements.

Second ascent? First lead try. Very nice boulder in the beginning with small holds.

3rd go. Beautiful line and climbing. Painful for the pinky though.

Too cold..

It's so hard to climb in Finland after being in Ceuse...

Did it from the ground.

Beautiful line with a nice start. Did all the moves and then climbed it.

Took 5 tries.

A hard start. Maybe a 7C or 7C+ boulder. After thqt just some easy climbing.

Pumpy!!

Really sharp holds.

3Go, got so pumped.

My fingertips are so sore from the boulder at the beginning. Third go.

Very nice line. probably the best 7c I've climbed yet.

A cool route with a really hard crux. There's a nasty hold for the thumb.

Nice bouldery moves. Climbed it before the hold broke off.

A wonderful route

Very nice line

Nice boulder problem