Amandla

3rd asc. 1 day, 1.5 hour. originally given 8C by first two ascentionists. felt like crimpy 8b+ to me, harder than swarm but not 8c.

the crux is the sharpness of the crimp, after 3 attempts your tips are finished!

Perfect line with just enough holds.

8B with new beta

Wow, such a nice experience with this one. I was close to not try because crimps looks smaller than I remember and I didn’t feel that I would have any chance. Philippe had an amazing flash go and motivated to try. I managed to do all separate moves quite quickly until the “good” crimp. It was dark and I planned to come back to check the top section. But I have a go just to try to link the first moves and suddenly I was in the middle of the boulder not knowing the last part. The move to the lip by night not knowing if the lip is good or not was crazy. Hopefully I’m good in mantel so everything went fine. Really cool experience!

TÄMÄ