Anthony Gullsten

Cool moves with good holds. Rock quality is not the greatest.. Maybe even 7C+? 🤔🤷‍♂️

The most obvious start 👍

Thanks Wille for making the topo and sharing this cool location!

5/5 dream line 💎

Such cool holds! The start felt really hard for me... And I even managed to punt once from the end :'D

Really cool sequence when you're not so tall 😁

🚀

BOLD

One of the best traverses in Rocklands? Simple yet delicate, I like it!

Thought I could never do this one because I couldn't hold the pinch... Guess I just had to try really really hard :D

Perfect crimp ladder!

Maybe a night session on this wasn't the best idea... :D Super committing last move!

5/5

Tried to jump at first, but unfortunately I found this other beta that worked better in the heat.. Still need to go do it the jump way! Such a fun move!

Sit start; left hand on slopy rail and right hand on good crimp.

Starts on the good hold in the middle of the wall to the right of Dementia and goes left to join the same top. Weird low percentage move that feels quite desperate in the beginning... ;)

Battled with finding the correct beta. Came up with a really funky way to do the bottom part :D In the end didn't feel too bad, but at first it felt reaaally hard.. Got to appreciate the intricacies that Font has to offer.

Fun climbing intro to Atresie. Worth climbing after you've done all the Big 5!

Maybe a tad harder than Mecanique elementaire?

First time seeing this massive roof not too far from Fontainebleau. And it was as good as it looks, if not better! Took me a bit of time to find the best possible methods on acte 1 and especially acte 2. Can't do many mistakes when starting from the start... Surprised myself by climbing the whole thing on my first try getting to the nohands rest! I'll have to come back on another trip to try the harder finish that Alban Levier put up ;)

Took me some time to finally do this one... First tried with my foot on the starting hold, but doing it "rainbow rocket"-style turned out to be the way!

Had to fight hard! Link to the video of the ascent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8fp0PR3qsM&t=21s

Got my souvenir on my last day of the trip!

Last time I tried this, it felt impossible. Now all it took was a few tries! Surprise send with headlamps 👌

Harder than the other 8As nearby

Now the full line! Climbs so much better than it looks :D

First day of the trip. Surprised myself with this one!

Straight up from the jugs of 'Hypergravity'. 2 move wonder

Start low and right. Right hand on a slopy rail and left hand in a good vertical crack.

A lot of work went into this one.. And I don't mean the climbing, but everything else that's involved. The landing was absolutely horrible before we moved this rock that weighed almost a ton. Brushing the holds, finding the right beta, finding even better beta, drying wet holds etc. It all made for an unforgettable experience..

Last day in the forest.. Feeling absolutely trashed!!! :D Took me a while to find the beta for the end, and it took me even longer to figure out the start. Really cool climbing on slick rock. Perfect when you don't have skin to spare ;)

I feel like the direct finish is as hard as the left one.. Hence 8B

Had a real big day! First went to Rocher des Prince and did Ouroboros, then moved on to Potala and did Surplomb de la mee, and for the final destination Recloses where I first did Narcotic direct after quite some work finding the bodypositions, then sent this long thing as the last thing. Feeling pretty wrecked right now... :D

8A+/B

Got pretty close on the sit! Fell a couple times just before the lip.. Had to give up and just do the stand instead :)

2 days last fall and now 3 days to finish this absolute beauty! Incredible boulder! Not just how it looks, but also how it climbs. The movements made the process of working it a whole lot more fun. Now what?!?

What a relief to finally put this one down... Such a hard move!!! No need to come back here EVER again :D

Mini pinch was key to success! Yet another project ticked off. Sipoo is the place to be ;)

Took me a while to figure out the beta for this one. Tricky and powerful!

The full line! Climb Hypergravity 8B into The Wave 8B with a decent rest in between. Hard to grade. Let's see what others will say. It was supposed to be my big project close to home, but completely out of the blue I sent the damn thing! Happy, but also a bit disappointed that it's over..

Totally unexpected! :D

Very subtle, yet powerful! Scary landing...

Pure static lock off. 2nd ascent I think?

Kiitti Eero! Oli hemmetin kiva päivä :)

Class

Really really smooth holds. Good thing, since I could barely feel my fingers..

Had an epic last time I tried this one.. Ripped a finger open on the pocket, and fell a couple times at the top. This time it went without a fight!

Compstyle jump with a techy finish. Rare find!

Blind slap! So funky :D

Perfect double dyno!

Hard. 'nuf said.

Accidentally broke a hold off in the middle... :/

Jumps back to back. Incredible find! Perfect boulder to end my trip.

Friction dependent. Hard with a taped finger. Great line at the Section!

One of the many gems in the Section.

8A+ is probably more appropriate. Don't think many climb this one?

Wooooooo!

Amazing holds at the topout!

Fun sequence coming out the roof. Shame it doesn't top out.

Perfect line with just enough holds.

Did it the tall mans way. No kneebar, but still skipped a move.

Unique!!

Spiky jug!

Felt harder than the Vice

Had a fun session on this one. Once you know what to do it's not that bad. Committing end!

I got some really good beta from the Norwegian crew when they worked on it. When I went for the flash try I executed the moves perfectly. It almost felt surreal.

Sitstart to Out of Balance. Makes the end a bit harder.

Climbs way better than what it looks.

Dream line!

Almost held the swing on my flash try..

Short and powerful! It was sketchy topping the slab ending with a headlamp in the dark.

Hard intro move into Splash of red

Cool Ninja kick!

One of the coolest holds in granite!

Finally the arete wasn't covered in ice! Sharp holds in the beginning, but it's cool and continuous climbing all the way with an incredibly smooth arete ;)

Almost didn't even try this thing because I couldn't brush the snow from the middle ledge. The slopers on the left were icy, so I had to climb it a bit differently. Such a freak move in the beginning with the heel. Unique!

2nd try, ground up, scared shitless at the top since I didn't really know what to do, couldn't feel my fingers and the top was a teeny tiny bit icy. Haven't been that nervous in a looong time! What a thrill! Couldn't or wouldn't have pulled this off without the 3 extra pads from the British crew. Cheers!

Nicer ending than on Cosmos!

Had to fight against the forces of nature. Took me around 2 hours to clean the top out from 20cm of snow and after I got it somewhat dry, the wind blew the snow back onto the holds. Frustrating.... Ended up putting a towel on the holds to keep them from getting snowed on. Worked like a charm! Used a heel hook instead of a toe. I still don't know how to toe hook..

After a little bit of beta testing it went quite fast. Felt harder than other 8A+ here.

2nd go since I flashed Zarzaparrilla

All on the heel. Cool swing! Could be 8A+?

Blew my flash on the heel... oh noes! Didn't make the same mistake twice. Pasos físicos!

Hard if you're fat. Or was it short? Can't remember..

Perfect slopers on the arete. Unique movement!

Nice all points off dyno

2nd go! So close on the flash...

Dat first move..

Shame that I slipped on the flash go.. Great river boulder!

2 short sessions on it. Amazing holds on a massive overhang! Good thing it dried enough so that I could try it. I've been wanting to try this ever since I saw the video of Ty on this.

1st go

Accidentally did a FA.. I honestly thought it started sitting down as it seemed really obvious. Only adds one move to the low start. It was fun to spend the mid summer with such a great crew :D

Painful.. Had to tape three fingers to try this. Not the common swiss climb, so it's a nice change.

So close to flashing this one! Didn't try hard enough.. Second try was the charm. 8A+?

A fantastic problem! Fell off a few times at the end on my first day. Came back a few days later and did it first try! 8B/+ ?

Second try. Sooo close to flash

A really special climb in Bodio. Long roof with lots of moves and a specific foot sequence. Nice addition to Ticino Fabi!

Feels amazing to finally climb this one! Got so close on it a couple years back, but still evaded my attempts until now. Success!

Deeper!! Toehooks all the way ;)

Had a hard time finding this boulder with Arjan's splendid directions.

I swore that I wouldn't come back on this one after I got a huge flapper from this, but.... 'Time goldens the memories'

A nice climb in a small sector with a really intricate way of grabbing the crux hold. First felt impossible, then felt quite easy.

One of the great font problems! Feels great to climb on some slopers again.

It's all about the heel. Second try from the bottom! 8A?

Weird moves. Took me a bit to figure out the best way to do the moves. It ended up being the most simple way!

Not the best conditions, when I tried this boulder so I was really surprised when I managed to stick the dyno! 2½ stars!

Had a couple wet holds and footholds, but still managed to pull it off. One of the coolest holds ever on this climb.

It's a variation to 'Wrestling..' Climbs to the right. Has a complete different style. Small compression moves.

Great rock quality and a nice line. It's good to see some new areas and climb outside after a comp.