Markus Kitunen

Ylempi kruxi tuntui melkeinpä vaikeammalta kuin alun boulderi. Ihan hieno reitti joka tapauksessa.

Todella herkkä kruxi. Meni muutama sessio pelkkien moovien työstämiseen. Sanoisin, että 7a on lähempänä totuutta nykygreidauksella.

Nice technical route. On the second try.

Hieman tiukalta tuntui greidikseen.

Ekat yrkät joskus kolme vuotta sitten. Nyt ekalla.

tokalla yrkällä

Hyvää jammia alhaalta ylös.

Ylärissä työstetty muuvit kasaan parilla sessiolla. Nyt meni kolmannella liidiyrkällä, mahtavassa sendikelissä, 25 asteen lämpötilassa ja loppukesän auringonpaisteessa. Eka 7b/7b+. Hieno reitti!

Toproped some years ago.

Yksi parhaista reiteistä! Meni kolmannella yrkällä.

second go

Kahva kiivetty aiemmin.

Lopussa meinasin jäädä lantiosta jumiin. Olisi helpottanut jos ei olisi ollut valjaita.

Erikoinen ja napakka alku.

Kiipesin ylärissä viime vuonna.

Yritin ylärissä joskus 2019. Nyt ensin ylärissä ja ekalla liidiyrkällä.

Ehkä olen joskus aiemmin kakkostelut, mutta reitistä ei mitään muistikuvia.

TRS. Kruxi meni yllättävän kivuttomasti kun keksi hyvän betan.

Yritin joitain vuosia sitten. Nyt ekalla yrkällä.

Nice route. Sent on the second lead try after figuring out the crux moves.

5.6.2024: Varmasti yksi parhaimmista jollei paras trädireitti jota olen kiivennyt. Meni tokalla liidiyrkällä. 9.5.2024: TRS

Kiivetty ylärissä neljä vuotta sitten. Nyt ekalla liidiyrkällä.

Ihan hieno reitti.

Not sure if I climbed it with "correctly" as intended. I didn't have to jam, especially not the fist. At first it was hard to figure out the beta, but once I got it, it wasn't that bad.

It didn't feel that hard compared to other routes with the same grade. Top out was a little bit scary at first, but after finding a suitable beta it was okay. Very nice route!

climbed as trad

Led pitches 2, 3, 4 & 5. Some bigger cams would have been useful. The largest one we had was #2, so some runouts especially on the last pitch. Also if linking pitches 2&3, some extra gear is useful (had to runout the last 15 yards). Also pitch 4 had some runouts in the mid section, but easy climbing. Also found offset nuts useful. Pleasant climbing and nice route. Highly recommended.

Felt hard to commit on the crux part. But a nice route overall.

Excellent route with good holds.

Some cool moves and a nice crux.

nice moves

Nice climbing with an interesting crux.

one move wonder

Seconded last year.

Led pitches 1 and 3.

Nice route. Some holds are very polished in the beginning.

Relatively easy climbing except the crux pitch, which took me a couple of tries to send. It felt trickier than 6b, but maybe I just didn't find the right beta.

Nice route. It gets easier the higher you climb.

There was a little surprise at the end. Almost didn't make the last move.

Alun boulder osuus oli mielestäni tiukempi kuin 5+. Loppu oli ihan greidissään.

Some hard offwidth jamming on the first pitch. Then mostly scramble until the big ledge, before the least three pitches. Walk off descent. Follow the ridge till you find a rapp anchor tied around a big block. The follow the ridge again to reach a second rapp anchor. Then scramble up the ridge again to reach the trail to Vågakallen and descent following the trail in the gully.

TRS

TRS. On the second try.

Led uneven pitches.

2.8.2023: led both pitches 12.7.2022: seconding both pitches.

Not as good as other top 50 routes. Led pitches 2, 5, 6 and 8.

Nice and easy climbing. Simul climbed pitches 1, 2, 3, 7 and 8. Led pitches 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 9, 11, 12. Last pitch is scrambling. Approach 2,5h, climbing 6h, 12,5 hours total from car to car.

led the second pitch.

Led pitches 1 and 3.

Led the second pitch.

Led pitches 1, 4, 5, 8, 9, 11

TRS

TRS.

The second pitch was great! Led pitches 1 and 3.

Led the first pitch

Led the second pitch.

Led two last pitches.

The route has a lot to offer from offwidth crack to tiny crimps on a slab. Almost as good as Vespillaren Direct. Lengths of the pitches in the guidebook are not exact. Led uneven pitches.

Amazing route! Mostly well protected, except the pitch 11. Led uneven pitches.

Led pitches 1, 3 and 4. Continued to the top by Very Expensive Ticket and led pitches 4 and first half of the last pitch 50m - ropes were not long enough for the last pitch.

Climbed on 4 pitches. Led uneven pitches.

Climbed on two pitches.

18.5.2023 sent on the first lead try 31.5.2023 TRS. After finding the r ight beta for the start, it went on the second go.

Yläköysisoolona.

Kauheaa könyämistä, mutta oli se sen arvoinen. Älä koske kynteen!

Hieno jammi halkeama! Onsight "väärällä" jammi tekniikalla. Iso kiitos Juha Suikkalalle jammikoulusta!

Climbed using the arete just before the last bolt.

11.5.2023 Top rope solo. 2.6.2023 lead

On the second go. Nice boulder crux move.

It felt hard for the grade.

On the second try.

Finally sent it after many times and years of trying. It definitely felt harder than 6b+.

I may have tried it before. This time I flashed it after receiving a beta.

Preclipped the first bolt

Led pitches 1, 2, 4, 5 and 6, then accidentally finished the route by climbing Z Mapp. Nice and exposed climbing. Hanging belays only.

This time led the first pitch. The second pitch led before.

climbed proportional representation first

climbed proportional representation first

Kakkostellen. Hieno reitti.

Reitin alkuosa kiivetty viime vuonna Syysunelman lopulla.

Reitin loppuosa kiivetty viime vuonna Saunan alulla.

Climbed from the left side of the block at the end. Not sure if that's the right way.

Climbed on toprope first.

climbed on toprope two years ago

Climbed on first lead attempt after trying it on top rope first. Very nice route with good holds and some long moves.

Kiipesin ensin ylärillä kolme vuotta sitten.

Kiivetty ensin ylärillä pari vuotta sitten.

Kiipesin alun ylärillä kolme vuotta sitten.

Led all pitches.

Led all pitches

Weird route. Not sure if I climbed it as intended.

Great route with nice crux. Led pitches 1, 3 and 4.

11.7.2023: Led pitch 2 10.7.2022: Led pitches 1 and 3.

7.7.2023: Led pitches 1, 2, 5 & 7 9.7.2022: Very nice route. Led pitches 3, 4 and 6.

Made it on 4 pitches. Made an extra stance where the route separates from Pizzatyven. Led pitches 2 and 4.

Led pitches 1 and 3

Led pitches 1 and 2

Led the first pitch.

5.7.2023: Led pitches 1, 3, 4 & 5 1.7.2022: Climbed on 6 pitches. Led even numbered pitches.

9.7.2023: Led pitches 2, 4 & 5 30.6.2022: Great route. Led uneven pitches.

Kiivetty ylärillä viime vuonna.

climbed as multipitch

No anchor at the top.

Boulderhenkinen napakka aloitus.

Top roped before

Kiipesin Kantin ensin.

I climbed the other route with the same end last year. Climbed this one as trad.

First part before the tree is more difficult. Hard positions to place protections. Had to grab the root of the tree to get up to the ledge.

Hieno reitti. Saa hyvin varmistuksia.