Joni Ärmänen

Brilliant jug pulling with bouldery moves and some good rests.

Cool climbing, generously bolted and not polished 👌🏻

Sweet flowing climbing on pockets on vertical. Not polished at all! (Downgraded to 6c+ in the 2023 topo).

Awesome and committing! Required some work. Hard for the grade?

First go. Shares the first bolt with the 7b+ to the right that I had already tried so redpoint it is. Quite a specific sequence that might be harder to onsight without chalk.

Nice stemming

Slab school

The rock here has a lot of angles that look like potential holds, but without chalk it was quite hard to read at first. A nice tecnical route though!

Ansaitsee tähtensä

🤌

Leppoisa

Oikein hyvä

Yllättävän kiva!

Not many hard moves. Harder than Sobeteo Ajeno though.

2nd go, an unfortunate slip. A reachy 7a?

2nd go. Got scared. 😬 A nice route!

Awesome route!

A bit slippery but the pod was a nice twist

Nice powerful moves and good rests. Three stars despite the ground consisting of shit and the pigeon poop in some rest holes (part of the experience.)

Sweet! Some bad feet and quite polished, but great pumpy climbing with a couple of good rests. 1st go of second session this trip. Overall third session.

Cool

2nd go

First two bolts wtf

Fingery and powerful. Loved it.

Long and nice

Sharp and thin start, juggy after the shelf. 2nd go.

A nice one

Quite okay. Bolted by a tall person? :D

Herkkä!

Ilmava!

Oli kyllä itelle vaikee lukea ja tuntu aikaisempina vuosina vaikeammalta kuin Mad Max tai Iisipiisi. Nyt hyvillä kitkoilla ei ongelmaa.

Melko boulderikas. Ainakin saitti oli vaikea.

Awesome tufa stemming, good holds and some kneebar rests. What’s not to like?

Short an bouldery. Dialed the moves in top rope, then first redpoint.

Nice moves, good holds.

Balancy!

Hard to onsight in my opinion. 2nd go. Great positions and moves.

Not too slabby, not too overhanging with nice movement and just optimally balancy with decent pockets. Sustained, but with good enough rests. Good clipping positions and safe to fall. Awesome!

Exposed climbing on good holds, hugging the bulging arete. Brilliant!

Tough boulder, easier runout.

not great not terrible

Well polished but still a quality route with nice moves. Fun climbing to a heartbreaker last move. Basically two completely different routes with a good rest between. Took annoyingly 6 attempts to stick the crux.

Sustained, i guess this felt harder than the 6c to the right.

Well bolted, early crux and very easy after.

Very nice. Definitely enough bolts.

Did it in a single pitch via the nest. Proper squatting with all the drag. Next time more quickdraws, slings and the left variation. A fine adventurous experience with just barely enough gear and cool stemming, but only one star: rope drag + crow’s nest.

Solid and exposed

Standard one star for no holds breaking off.

Cool crack, visual route, tough and annoying crux.

One of the top 6b cracks in Finland?

Quite stiff for the grade, especially for the shorter. Hard to read without chalk.

Different style than the other routes in Las Encantadas. Has this trad adventure feeling. Cracks and slabs.

Edit: Grade before a boulder came off the wall.

Short and bouldery - just the way I like it. First day toproped a couple of times and was chased away by rain. Did it on the first go of second day, putting up draws.

Definitely not a 5+. An ok route for a 6a+ now that it has been rebolted.

Quite alright for an Encantadas 6a+.

Short, slippery, not fun.

No stars. 7th go or something to that effect. Hard to read with all the crozzle, chossy feet, bad pockets and dents. Adding to the confusion you can see chalk on only the wrong holds that don’t get any rain. A rarely climbed route.

Awesome! On the first try it felt much harder than 7b. On the second go my foot slipped in the crux just when I had got my index finger in the pocket, but still managed to keep it together. NB: there are three bolts in a row below the bulge. I took the one on the right, but doesn’t really matter which one you take.

Good holds all the way. Exposed. The bolts can feel a bit spaced.

Climbed the start of Valentines Day and switched to Bombay Sapphire at the start of the 6b pitch. On Bombay Sapphire I led only the last pitch so a bit questionable onsight 😁.

Have tried this before, did it second go this trip.

Retroflash. Apparently I haven’t climbed this clean earlier.

Second go

Fun and easy

I have given this a go some years ago. A very easy unnecessary start with bolt hangers removed to an easily accessible shelf, then some overhanging moves to an outrageous anchor clipping position (at least for the shorter). One star for the anchor clipping tufa.

Polished and a loose rock just below the anchor (marked with X). Otherwise a three star route!

Good stuff. Led the odd pitches.

Fun tufa pulling

More sparsely bolted than it’s neigbors.

Quite tiny pockets for a 6a+

AKA ”Puto Friend”. Sweet but painful jamming. 6b+/6c

Pitää nelosillekin antaa tähtiä

Seconded in a light rain. Fun climbing still.

A couple of not that obvious moves. Enjoyable. There was no need for dynos, even for shorter climbers.

A fine warmup / easier lead. Deserves at least one star. Gave three to compensate many zeros.

Led p2 & p3. A couple of wet streaks, but still managed the crux. Nice.

There’s some traverse in all the pitches so not that recommended to link pitches.

Led pitches 2, 3, 6, 7 and 9-12. Should learn to run it out more. Took 10h + descent.

Cool. The crux is a bit morpho

Led p1 and p2. Normally I’m not fond of slabs or runouts, but this I enjoyed! Easy enough grade, perfect weather and first time climbing in Lofoten.

Kiva släbi

Kolme yrkkää meni alkuboulderin selättämiseen

Climbed Salami first

A few cool moves to better holds. Nice, at least if you have the beta and draws in.

Ekan pultin korkeudesta ja puusta miinusta, mutta silti turvallinen ja ihan kiva reitti.

Had a fight on this probably 2014 and did not finish that time. This time it was fun.

On the second try of the second session this year. Direct ending. I've tried the route several times over some years, but never have had the commitment to give one more go after a couple of failed attempts, having fallen at the anchor multiple times.

Everything else was wet

Cool laybacking and/or jamming for such a short route

Sharp

Most probably tried this one as well years ago so redpoint.

I’ve probably tried this years ago so redpoint it is.

I had heard rumours about this one being dangerous, but it can be protected quite well. Stays in the shade until noon.

Nice and varied. Not that many bolts, but the few are actually placed quite okay. Minus one star because of the ledges, even though the rests were welcome. Climbed in the last rays of the midsummer sunset. Started from left.

This one has some sustained climbing

Nice!

2nd go. Slipped from the anchor clipping hold, totally pumped on the first attempt. Hard to onsight.

Muuten kivaa kiipeilyä, mutta alun takia ei tähtiä. Vaikea lukea, teräviä reunoja joihin lyödä nilkka pudotessa

Hieno reitti. Pulttilinjan oikeelta puolelta kruksissa. Muutama yrkkä meni turhaan mähmimiseen ja lähetys sitten seuraavan aamun lämppäyrkällä.

2nd go

Tää oli hyvä

Did not use the arete on the send

On the second try. Nice.

Kivaa hänkkiä ja kahvoja

Ilmeisesti tänään osui taivaan merkit kohdilleen. Hyvillä ajo-ohjeilla eka 7c, ekalla liidiyrkällä.

Kuivana varmaankin ihan kiva.

Vein jatkot ylhäältä käsin vuosi sitten ja saatoin kokeilla muuveja samalla, ei tarkkaa muistikuvaa. Nyt ekalla yrkällä.

Lähdin suoraan pultin alapuolelta, josta olikin vaikeampi ohittaa pultti vasemmalta. Lopulta kiersin ekan pultin oikealta.

Really varied short tufa climb with possibility for fun jamming.

Thought it hard to read because of all the chalk and got pumped. I probably used less than half of the chalked holds on the send.

Had tried this in 2016 and this time got it on the second try with a static beta.

Nice climbing, 15 bolts.

16 bolts + anchor

2nd go. Not as runout as the 2018 Rockfax lets you understand.

Line not obvious and bolting not stellar.

Linked the first two and the last two pitches. Led pitches 1, 2, 4, 6 and 8.

Bad bolting / missing bolt. Edit: Rusty bolts replaced in summer 2020.

Sharp. Cleaning the draws from the traverse didn't treat our rope well.

Runout. Goes more left than what’s drawn in the picture. This is the only other bolted route on this wall after 18 karat

Only first pitch. Really liked the flakes.

Jänistin turhaan satilla

Kakkostellen. Kunnon seikkailu.

Had slipped at the anchor some years ago

Vekaran väliankkurilta vasemmalle

Thought it would be a bit slabbish, but turned out to be only slab. Very enjoyable tho. Took 4 hours not counting the approach. Led pitches 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11.

One of the good easier routes here

Old bolts, dirty, line not at all obvious.

Overgrown with vines

Short, not so obvious moves

Edit: led again on 2022-06-23

Edit: led again on 2022-06-25 but this time it took two tries to build the courage.

Edit: led again on 2022-06-23, added two stars. Might want to use a stopper to block the rope from getting stuck near the top.

Very polished