Henri Kellock

One try/session years ago. Second session this year. Direct ending. Thanks to Sanna and Miina for beta and showing how to use "kineettinen ketju" to get past the crux! :-)

I have tried this a couple of times years ago but I didn't fully memorise the beta until I had a longer session on this route with Eerika on May 1st, 2023. After that session, I went through Eerika's beta in my head multiple times, including during a two week trip to Kalymnos. After returning I still needed four sessions before the send. I mainly kept Eerika's beta but had to make a couple of modifications, including a crucial tip from Pasi for the part of the beginning of the crux, the part that was hardest for me. Thanks to Eerika for showing the beta and to Pasi for pushing us to leave to the cliff at 8:30 on a beautifully sunny Saturday morning. Tomorrow's your turn!

Nice new addition to the sector. Quite hard for the grade, or was I just so tired during my last ascent of my trip?

Quite nice but a bit sharp in parts. Save some skin and strength for the end! The bolts look good but at least one of them was in need of tightening. I guess I should carry a tool with me?

The bolts are getting a bit rusty but the route itself was pure awesomeness from start to finish.

Short but sweet!

A bit cruxy but otherwise quite nice.

Nice undercling practice! :-)

A bit sharp but otherwise quite pleasant.

Getting a bit polished but still awesome.

Sharp.

Hard to read middle section. Almost backed down after already climbing the crux because I didn't see the way to the next bolt. Just lift your feet up and trust that you'll find some hidden holds. :-)

Watch out for loose holds at the top. Probably better to skip the loose boulders until they are removed.

Thanks to Juho for crucial beta!

Nice!

Beginning with a couple cams in place by my climbing partner, end onsight.

I really liked this route. Nice holds. Climbed it with a backpack, although I clipped the first bolt without my backpack and then climbed down before taking my stuff with me. :-)

Ok route, if you're tall. Not sure how is coping this if I was shorter. Probably at least harder than 7a if you're shorter.

Nice moves on an interestingly bolted route. First two bolts pre-clipped as suggested by someone who had had some...experiences...while falling from the second bolt. My arm was barely long enough to clip the third bolt with my left hand without crimping too much with my right hand. Beta-for-self: The three left siders: left hand to first, feet up, right hand to second while staying on the left, feet higher, left hand to third. Right hand to top part of right sider, feet higher with right in slight back-step, dead-point with right hand to lower sloper, catch thumb in the right place. Right foot to foot hold on the right, carefully hold sloper while matching left hand to higher part of sloper, grab crimpy part, and then lift right hand to undercling crack...jam thumb under crack, other fingers in the crack and pinch until the hand is jammed firmly. Lift feet and move left hand to better part of undercling when possible, continue hands to better siders higher up. Observe the feet holds on the left, and the small cracks. Left foot high, pull to the left with both hands from the good sharp hold, then catch the good sloper with left hand. Not the first one, but the one that is hard to reach without lifting your right foot a bit as well. Lift yourself up, avoid any swing to the left by placing right toes on previous hand holds. Reach up to the left-hand-crack-sider-crimp...with your right hand, lift left foot up, lift body up and clip third bolt from the gaston-position. Reach left hand high to slightly better side-pull, right to the right onto a sloper somewhere far away and invisible, then lift your feet up onto some kind of combination of friction and tiny holds. A sloper somewhere on the right will help getting up to the sloping ledge where you can calm down and observe the long path to the forth bolt. On step at a time. Top-out: two good holds in the crack and a third on the right will help getting above the bulge even while tired.

I didn't personally need a pre-clip as I saw a crimp that I used at the second clip where the foot holds were okay as well. At least if you are tall and this isn't your maximum grade. In other cases, why not pre-clip, especially if your belayer is lighter than you. Safety first. :-) It took me so long to figure out where exactly to traverse right that I ended up doing it in a rain shower. Luckily the top holds were good as I was pretty pumped from going back and forth and trying to find the perfect sequence so as to not ruin my onsight. Ended up using a foot hold on the right side of the crack, didn't see a reason to eliminate it, although I tried at first. 😂

Not hard.

Nice! (All the routes seem to be nice here.)

Felt totally impossible five years ago, now I found a working beta with a couple of tries.. Beginning straight up, crux was lifting my weight onto a sharp 3mm foothold while closed-hand crimping from two one-finger shallow pocket crimps. After the finger pain, I got to experience some more delightful sensations, this time in my feet while lifting myself up to the underclings. My toes hurt. Luckily I didn't manage it during first try, so I got to do it all again. End with my right hand mostly on various holds on the right edge. While not going too much to the right I got to enjoy a weird left-hand undercling on the right side of my balance point while lifting my feet and reaching high up with my right hand, and also of course the spicy ending with high footholds, traverses to the left around the last bolt and some cool slopers that you can only stick if you get your feet up high enough. Such cool moves, but only one star? Too much pain, and too easy to skip all the cool moves if you follow the bolt line too loosely. Also, some bolts were hard to reach before applying quick-draws to them. Anyway, climb it if you like small foot-holds or crimping with one finger. Or both. Have fun! :-)

Maybe it is easier if you're tall?

Thanks to Ville for beta...tried to find my own easier beta but failed and had to go with Ville's powerful moves. :-)

Not hard.

Redpoint, 16.6.2021: Mostly the same beta as 9 years ago, although clipping didn't seem that problematic this time. Top-rope, 15.6.2012: After the forth clip I moved slightly dynamically to the right onto a small ledge on left side of the Gruffalo crack. Using the ledge for both hands and then a high step makes the route considerably easier, but I guess this ledge is not included? Climbing the route this way gives it some pretty cool moves though, but there might be a bit of swing if leading, since the clips are on the left. Maybe 6c/6c+ this way. Anyone know if the ledge is eliminated?

Really nice climbing and unique holds for granite makes for a rare gem in its grade class, which is much closer to 7a than 6a, in my opinion.

Very nice! :-)

Aino ei hyväksy flashiä, koskin joihinkin otteisiin edellisellä reitillä.

Aino todistaa hyväksytyn onsight-suorituksen.

I might have made some sounds on this one.

Quite enjoyable, not too easy. :-)

Climbed the bolt-line, not the drawn line. Bolts are safely on the downhill (left) side while your right hand is in the good crack and right foot is also on the right, left hand is near the two first bolts. The third bolt felt like the most sketchy one for me, I was pulling on a bad sloper with my right hand while hardly trusting my feet at all. 😬

Reachy in some parts.

Climbed the beginning from the right, the crux (reachy+technical+hard to onsight) for me was higher up.

Hard to read, but awesome climb when you know what to do. Thanks to Aino to beta! :-)

I've tried this a couple of years ago, took a while to return to it. :-)

I have a feeling I've climbed this right until the last bolt and then chickened out of doing the last move to the anchor a couple of years ago. This year I trusted my feet. The bolting didn't feel dangerous, but I did have a bit of trouble committing to some advances from bolt-to-bolt. Overall quite nice route.

Felt almost impossible during on-sight attempt, but then it went easily on my second go. Hmm, maybe I should learn to use my feet? :-)

Not terrible, maybe even nice at times.

Sharp.

I had to find one more kneebar rest before managing to clip the anchor (instead of falling for the third time). :-)

Nice!

Not too bad, not too easy. :-)

Really nice, pumpy fun. :-)

Reachy or powerful crux.

Almost slipped of the second last hold. And in like ten other places all over the route, starting from the beginning. But luckily I didn't. Cool.

Awesome. Might be soft for the grade, at least compared to the other routes in the crag, and if you're tall enough to skip all the bad holds. ;-)

Hard to read, maybe reachy at times? Nice, though. :-)

Really nice and really hard for the grade! :-)

Hard beginning, continuous climbing. Awesome. Could use more bolts, though. Couple of scary, bad positions above bolts, maybe just bad climbing from me. :-)

Scary second bolt, then really nice climbing! :-)

My first 7b in Finland, finally. :-)

Hard to onsight.

Nice! :-)

Reachy beta. :-)

Took a while to find my beta for the crux, but it ended up being pretty easy for me with my tall-person beta. There is some loose rock still on the route.

Brittle rock.

Really nice. I might've skipped the first crux of the most straight line by traversing right, and found a nice no-hand rest before the second crux, but it was still enjoyable, just more reachy and powerful, less technical this way. :-) Thanks to Ville for beta!

Awesomely diverse climbing. For me the crux was the crimpy face climbing part, where I had trouble locating foot-holds. Before getting to the end I was ready to try to avoid using any mono-pockets, but they ended up being the most enjoyable part of the climb. Nice! :-)

The hard crimpy section before the end felt like a really hard crimpy section...maybe even harder than 6c.

Terrible first couple of tries, but didn't feel that bad once I figured out the correct sequence for myself. Really nice climbing from beginning to end. Amazingly all the chalked jugs at the top were dry, even though everything else got wet at the top after a small shower.

Nice warm-up!

Hard crux! Thanks to Ville for beta.

Okay warm-up.

Okay warm-up.

Did the moves and practiced the piece placements, but it was too wet to even consider leading my first 6/7-grade trad route. :-) Beta-for-self: Standing on shelf pinch with right hand and place first cam just under left hand hold (thumb). Lift left foot, left hand pinch, right foot onto good hold, right hand crimp, left foot in crack sideways, turn straight, lift body and squeeze rock with right foot around the corner. Reach high in the crack with right hand and jam index finger, control swing and use right toe hook to balance wriggling next piece just above right hand. Continue with left hand, lift right foot across to the left (high), left foot even higher and then deadpoint to jug with right hand. Traverse to right, up, more cams and some rest before climbing the rest of the route

Not too bad, actually. Yes, the beginning is pretty tough and bouldery, but the sequence is quite nice when you figure it out. And there's plenty of options for people of different lengths. The end section after the slab is considerably easier and even more enjoyable, again, with the right beta. :-) Note: The route was, and still is, pretty dirty. Some of the holds I used had 1-2 cm of moss on them before I cleaned them. I left some chalk on the route to encourage more ascents, but I would recommend bringing a brush in case you use a different beta. The route is pretty stiff for the grade, but I guess 6c+ isn't too far off, if you clean the holds properly and figure out a good beta. Probably hard to onsight at the moment, though. :-)

Really nice route, especially if you avoid using any Samsara holds. Felt much harder than Lepola and Otepää to me, almost as hard as Samsara.

Really nice!

Nice!

Nice finish, too bad it has to be an eliminate.

Nice!

Really nice!

Felt pretty hard for grade 5. :-)

Kakunpala felt like 4+, Telemark Prostitute a plus harder, Super cool felt a plus harder than Telemark Prostitute and Cool felt at least a plus harder than Super cool. Maybe I eliminated some Super cool holds or did something else stupid but this felt like 6a to me. :-)

Hard start, otherwise nice!

Easy on-sight using left crack...until marking the route and noticing it's an eliminate. Second attempt: eliminated left crack, right crack and small middle crack, just in case. Felt pretty hard this way, for 6b.

Top-rope 30.5.2015.

Does it count if I got slightly lost in the end, traversed back to the left and got my rope so stuck that I ended up untieing myself and walking to the top? :-/

I didn't manage to add any protection in the beginning, but otherwise nice and really well protected. :-)

Really hard and technical compared to other routes at the same grade in Chulilla. So happy to have managed this on my first attempt. Thanks to Rami for the beta and extra eyes that could see my feet at the crux section. :-)

My first onsight at 7a+/7b. Didn't manage to do the crux section from the right side, but found two bad holds on the left and deadpointed past the crux with my last strength. 'Slightly' morpho beta... Anyway, the route is awesome and doable for shorter people as well. Recommended! :-)

Slightly wet, otherwise superb climbing with tufas. :-)

Hard beginning and nice, continuous midsection. Needed all my strength to manage the end crux, no space for mistakes for me.

Slightly slimy in the end, otherwise superb. :-)

Nice last couple of meters but not worth climbing the beginning to get there.

Polished.

Pretty nice climb, but you can find rests that make it feel easier than 7a... :-)

Nice warm-up.

Awesomeness from the beginning slab to all the way up to the top. :-)

Great and varied route. :-)

Awesome. I had a pretty good plan on what to do before getting on the route, but once up there, I could no longer see the holds I planned to use, so I was pretty happy to receive some beta from people on the ground. :-) Not a proper flash, as I had done the end which is shared with Jungle king.

Nice!

4th try. First two tries figuring out how to get to the crux without being too tired. Last two tries figuring how to do the crux while being pumped. 7b in the new topo. The crux hold broke slightly before I got to try the crux for my first time, so it might (or might not) be harder than before. Also, someone stronger might pull more of that crux hold off, so be careful. :-)

Three nice climbs with rests in between. :-)

Nice pockets! At least some of them. ;-)

Confusing and hard to read but pretty enjoyable once you figure it out. :-)

Hard crux then nice and pumpy end. Almost too sharp, but not quite.

Sharp and pumpy even for 6a+. But nice. :-)

I had previously climbed the beginning shared by Saugeburt, but otherwise clean onsight.

You'll have to try this just because it's so weird climbing through the hole.

The definition of awesomeness. Well, maybe a slight exaggeration, but still, what can be better than managing a brilliant climb on the last day with your absolutely last strength.

The sharp beginning is still sharp, but the middle is losing its...sharpness. The end is still nice despite being slightly worn.

Very polished, especially the beginning is getting pretty tough for the grade.

Felt tough as the day's last route in the direct sunlight. 6b would be pretty much in line with the other 6b's in the next sector, in my opinion.

Nice route. Might be hard to onsight, but I got such good beta from my belayer that it didn't feel as hard as some other 7a/7a+ in this area.

Hard to read despite all the chalk everywhere. Moderate/hard 6c compared to many other routes in the area, in my opinion.

Nice warm-up.

A real fight for me. Got some good beta for the steep part and barely managed to get to the half-way rest, was totally wrecked. From there on the route was clearly just an easy walk up to the top. But I just didn't feel it. The battle to the anchor continued for me. I was unable to rest from the huge holds and I just couldn't hold on to almost anything in the end. I had to get all my weight on a heel-hook right in the end just to get enough energy to do the last clip. "I'm falling, I'm falling", "I can't hold on", screaming, sweating, sun and friends cheering. For me this route had it all.

Not too easy. Nice pockets all the way. Clipped the top from a deep one-finger pocket. Totally unnecessary, of course, but why not.

Had quite a bit of trouble getting the first couple of clips in on the first try. Second try was much easier with long quickdraws in place in the beginning.

Couple of technical sequences with not too good rests in between. Enjoyable.

Nice route! One of my hardest 7a's, but worth the effort.

Why not? Warmup for Nu Moon?

Spacious bolts in weird places...especially if you're not tall enough to reach them...maybe bad rock quality? The actual line is pretty nice. Felt really hard though. =)

Much better than it looks! Nice!

Really nice route! Felt 6b-ish for me but might be considerably harder for shorter people in a couple of places.

Hard for me. Top-rope 2.7.2016. Beta-for-self-after-lead: Too long, too tired... =)

Cool moves. Luckily the underclings weren't that wet anymore today.

Reachy bolting made me nervous during my onsight + had some trouble reading the line at first -> chickened out and tried the crux moves with a toptope. In the end it wasn't that bad... small dead-point and then some pull-ups with legs hanging loose and a walk to the top.

Really nice moves and all, but scary first and third bolt... Thanks for beta to Emmi!

Nice, well-bolted route with a hard finish. During my onsight attempt, I dropped while trying to clip last bolt before anchor. Smooth fall thanks to the close proximity of the previous bolt and despite having quite a bit of slack... =) After the fall I noticed my hand was totally wet, as was the sloper I was holding before coming off the route.

First bolt is after some hard moves in the strictly no-fall zone. Options: use a crashpad, pre-clip the first bolt, don't fall or risk braking your leg... Feels hard for 6a? <-toprope 2014-04-21. Lead 2016: preclip first.

Really nice moves all the way up, so I would definitely recommend this route whether you like slabs or just need to practice them, like me. =) Maybe I was just tired after failing to link my moves on Titanik, but this felt really hard for 6b. Obviously I'm mistaken, since there's only 2 differing opinions out of 40+ 6b's. =)

Apparently the route used to have a longer start so I started as sit-start from the pile of sand. =) Still felt pretty solid for the grade, when compared to e.g. Nalkkila's slab 7a's.

Nice!

Lots of bolts. =) Hard moves, though.

End: right hand sloper, left to jug, match, right to big sloper on right. Lift left foot onto small hold on left, jam right knee in v-crack, pull higher, crimp, pinch with knees, reach for slopy jug, pull body up. Scary end.

Actually not too bad, although I felt slightly nervous climbing this. Then again, all my leads are nervous nowadays...

The beginning is probably harder than any of the moves on any of the routes to the right, minus the new 8a. Some people seem to climb this with a tree start...Then it's maybe comparable to the other 7a's here. Preclipped second to avoid breaking ankles with light-weight belayer. =)

Not quite 7a if you have long arms, otherwise, probably hard.

Real moves, balancing, power, crimping, pockets, you name it, this route has it all.

Nice.

Beta-alert. Fifth clip felt a bit sketchy, but the other runout parts were easier. For me the crux was above the fifth clip. Got totally lost going to the right, matching feet on tiny holds, lifting left foot way too high and then finding a one-finger-saviour pocket... End-beta: don't mind those good-looking holds on the right, just campus quickly to the left and up...

Slightly easier and less runout-feeling than ¡Ay Mamita!. I liked it.

Nice, although slightly runout in some parts. Warmup flash climbing was pretty terrible, but it wasn't that hard, so I nade it...

Easy for the grade. The actual climb is awesome but the bolts are pretty spaced out for some reason.

Nothing special, just a nice climb.

Awesome climb. No particularly hard moves but it's not like it's easy either. Beta-for-warming-up-when-all-the-easier-routes-are-taken: To third bolt: left hand in good slot, feet to right, right hand over to pinchy crimp, reach far left with left hand, lift left foot up to good small hold, reach to better holds. Clip. Climb higher, get right hand in good slot, feet high on right, left hand into two-finger slot, dead-point to big hold in the middle of the ledge on the left. Clip. Catch undercling with right hand and walk feet higher, use left hand in leftmost underhold. Lift feet even higher and reach for.crimpy pinchy hold close to that ledge you can't reach and use it to release underhold and go for the big hold. Climb to huge ledge, have a rest. Use two-finger pocket for clipping. Use pocket on farright and lift feet up to kick up to the juggy sloping hold on the right. Top-crux: right hand on sider, left in pocket. Lift feet up high on right, lift right hand higher, left to further pocket, then left foot next to left hand into the pocket. Go for the wood-looking hold with left hand. Right higher, feet higher on right, reach for pinchy hold high up with right hand and lift right foot onto smaller woody hold really high up while helping with left foot on friction.

Hard.

Probably bailed out slightly during the crux, but still felt hard.

Hard and bouldery beginning. Probably my hardest on-sight to date (although I had quick-draws ready, thanks to some nice Swedish climbers). Last route of the day, just had to go for it in the beginning and happened to be lucky (and tall) to stick the crux. Everything after that felt hard, but luckily the rest of the route was the first crimping of the day... =)

First try after Ricounet. Used some of the same holds, so maybe this was more red-point than flash. Felt easier than Ricounet, but maybe I was just less lost due to good beta from Emmi, Fredde and Nick.

6c+ in 2015 topo, but this felt harder than Crisis for me. Maybe I was totally lost on the on-sight.

Awesome. Not too easy.

Tricky. 6b+ in 2015 topo, but felt hard for 6b+.

Probably hard for the grade. Nice route, but slightly too sharp.

As awesome as DNA, with one slightly harder sequence and less no-hand rests. Thanks to Emmi for crux-beta and to Nick for belaying!

Everything else was busy, so tried this as a warm up. Awesome climbing, although I was feeling pretty desperate at the top, despite all the rests (maybe I had too many).

Thanks for beta + belaying to Emmi. =)

Good first try, almost flashed the route. But then it took quite a few tries (and a longer rest) to figure out how to manage the route without 100% strength.

Really nice. Considerably harder than Carpe diem, but arguably pretty soft for 6b+. (Topo grade 6b+.)

Lead 15.8.2015. Top-rope 25.7.2012: Nice route, worth taking as my first 7a lead project...as long as it doesn't rain next time I'm climbing this... ;-) Beta-for-self: High left foot, reach for good left hold while crimping with right hand. Match legs, continue to left with right hand, move left hand next to it. Lift right leg onto small good hold and use sidepull to fix weight onto leg. Lift left foot onto ledge and use undercling and sidepulls to shift weight onto leg. Rest. Find crimper for left hand and lift left leg high and right on small hold on top of the clip.

Nice climb. Felt very hard for 5b.

Hard.

Nice, bouldery moves in the beginning. The beginning felt like a 6B+ boulder problem, during which you have to clip and then do a couple of hardish moves more to get to the top, so this felt considerably harder than e.g. Genesis next to it or Kante at Ewige Jagdgrunde...

Hard.

Surprisingly nice for such a short route. 6b+ in Markus Schweiger's topo.

Weg duch das Puff, 5b in Markus Schwaiger's 2014 topo. Felt pretty stiff for 5b...

Second clip preclipped, but I practically soloed to third due to some belaying difficulties... Hard start + technical upper midsection makes a nice route.

Nice and not too easy.

Stick-clip first. Wasn't easy for me, but I've never flashed 7a, so...

Top-rope 2012-08-11. Finally lead 2015-06-13. Great technical route which remains challenging to the end. Repeat top-rope 2015-06-06. Beta-for-self in 2015: After second clip pinch both the right-hand crimp and the left hand pocket, lift right foot onto face, then left onto good foot-hold. Dead-point past side-pull to open-hand crimp with left hand, bring right hand to side-pull, position feet higher on right. Pull on side-pull (clip third here?) and reach up and to the left with left hand, bring right hand to same level. Before dead-point to huge jug, crimp with both hand and lift right foot high up onto good foot-hold. Pull body up close to wall, finally get some speed and dead-point to jug with right hand. Match, lift body up and clip with right hand, come back down for a rest. Move left hand to the crack on the left, right to the left side of the right crack. Step feet higher, bring right foot next to hand as heel-hook. Pull weight up and statically reach for first okay crimp with right hand, pull weight higher and change hook to toes, reach for next crimp with left hand. Climb to better holds higher and slightly to the right, have a rest. Traverse to the left and get one of the left-most good holds with left hand. With left foot on good hold on the left, cross over and up to the sloper with right hand, continue with left hand to better hold (?), then dead-point to good hold with right hand (?). Rest, clip, rest. Grab the good hold as right-hand side-pull, lift feet up and reach for sloper with left hand. Bring right hand to same level, then continue with left up and to the left. Calmly go to top hold/sloper with right hand and match, clip.

Cool route. Thanks to Juho for good beta! A tennis-ball size rock came off from the beginning while we climbed this route.

Easy start and great upper part. Try to stay on the bolt line without straying too much to the right in the end for a more enjoyable (and harder) climb.

Not bad, but no stars when the area is covered with so many better routes.

Warning: On-sight-spoiling beta. For me the mid-section was the hardest part, since it is getting a bit polished. Then the rest under the roof on the right and thanks to Ilari's great beta, another (partial, knee-bar-aided) rest while checking out the top holds before going for the long dead-point move (reachy) to the jugs (right, then left). Probably thanks to Ilari's advice, this didn't feel too hard, but I can imagine on-sighting this could be pretty hard, and the end might be a bit harder for climbers with shorter arms. So for me personally this felt maybe more like 6c, but I can imagine that it would feel harder for shorter climbers.

Beta-warning. Good climbing with hard-feeling crimpy and technical (or reachy, depending on your beta) mid-section crux going up to a sloper on the left or a good side-pull on the right. Bolts seemed good to me (re-bolted?). Called 'Not dangerous' (6b) in the 2011 Rockfax guidebook.

Nice climb again in Cala Magraner, but to me felt hard for the grade. Called Asuqui (6a) in the 2011 Rockfax guidebook. Thanks to Ilari for advice.

Nice, but getting polished midway up. Tricky finish, could be 6b+ (when compared to other 6a/6a+ routes in the area). Graded 6b+ in the 2011 Rockfax guidebook.

Nice technical climbing.

Pretty nice and not too hard, even for 6a (when compared to The Juggy One). Called Nautilus (6a) in the 2011 Rockfax topo.

Nice juggy route, but it's getting a bit polished, making it hard for the grade.

Good footwork practice.

Very enjoyable climbing, but took me 5 top-rope tries before doing the red-point. Thanks to Kimmo for beta. :-) Even those run-out parts didn't feel too bad once I knew the moves and was on the route leading. Beta-for-self: from big holds on right, traverse left starting with right hand then left to far away crimp. Use hook for clipping second. Right hand crosses over left again, left foot to the left. Left hand to good crimper, then right foot high up on the right, toe jammed in crack, left foot higher to aid kick up, right hand dead-points to OK crimp 20 cm before the shelf, continue with left slightly higher onto sloper. Right hand 60 cm to the right along shelf, match and continue to the traversing to the right. Match left foot next to right and right continues to the right to aid going up onto the huge holds slightly higher up. Clip third. Climb higher and clip fourth, come back onto good hold to rest. Position right foot under sharp-edged stone, left hand on right part of good hold, reach to side-pull with right hand. Lift left foot up onto small placement on the sharp stone, smear right foot under right hand and balance to cross over left hand to good hold, shift weight and lift feet up onto ledge. After a rest, go back to the left, using sloper on the left for right hand, left hand first on previous good hold, then lift right foot next to left hand, reach far to the left to small sharp part of crack, use this to balance left foot on left ledge. Then continue higher with left hand, good sloping hold close to clip. Match, position feet better and clip. Continue slightly to the left and up to slopers and crimp, move up to next ledge. Follow the crack up on the left edge of the line, then traverse to the right to the next clip, where you can balance your feet for a comfortable-enough clip. Continue up and on top of next ledge, follow crack up to the right with hands, lift left foot high up on good hold, pull with right hand from crack to reach the next clip with left hand. AFter that continue traverse to the right, lift yourself onto the next shelf, use small hold with left hand and good crimper with right hand. Then reach up and to the left with left hand to find good crimper, right hand follows to sloper on the way, then continue left to sharp shelf, match right hand. Lift right foot high up and continue on huge hold higher up to clip next bolt. In the end lift you feet up high-enough to get to good hold at anchor-level for a comfortable clipping of the anchor. Top rope 31.8.2014.

Can't say I'm a fan of those loose rock before the top, but otherwise pretty enjoyable.

Morpho beginning? Climbed with first clip pre-clipped.

I did some pretty weird moves to manage the beginning of this variant. Quite a nice route.

Second try. First try it was raining, so I marked the driest holds on the way up...but I couldn't figure out how to do the end while I was pumped. Thanks for top-beta to Ilari!

Probably done this years ago, but not sure.

I tried to follow the line in the 2008 guidebook and climb on the left side of the last bolt before the anchor. However, maybe it is supposed to be climbed on the right side, as there doesn't seem to be any hold on the left? Used one extra clip from Hessunreitti to protect the slabby end...so not really a proper ascent, but good enough for me...

Finnish granite at its best? And good bolting!

Partially bolted? Climbed on the right first then to the left of the second bolt. Many kinds of eliminates and route options possible, not sure which one is 'right'.

(Drawn as Up In Smoke in King Climbers 2013-2014?) To do lead. Beta for self: Once you get past the second clip it's done.

(Drawn as Flame Thrower in King Climbers 2013-2014?)

2nd try. Definitely one of the best routes, if not the best, I've climbed at the grade.

Odd positions, worn slings, rusty anchor, hard to clean...

Longer than I though, had to start over with some more quick-draws... :-D (This is the route marked as the 1st pitch of "The King & I" in King Climbers 2013-2014?)

Hard for the grade!

Nice long moves on slightly overhanging wall!

Good warm-up.

Scary top-out and interesting bolting in some places...othewise pretty OK.

1st pitch.

This is the longest route on the left side of Damai wall and had approx. 9 bolts. Line number 4 on p. 52 in Climb Malaysia 1st ed.?

Top rope 13.6.2012. Red-point attemp later that year ended badly with me hanging upside down with the rope around my ankle... Next time I was in Luhti I finally managed the red-point, but it was more than a year later. Pumpy!

Nice, but pretty long and hard move for 6a+ in the beginning.