Henri Kellock

Had to use the small crimp for a semi-static variation. Many tries on bad friction, second try after a rest day. Thanks to Jessica for beta and spotting! :-)

Sit-start. Nice!

Surprisingly okay traverse.

Started hands quite high on okay crimps, but still sitting on log without pad.

Nice, quality holds especially at the top!

Not surprisingly, the stand is easier than the sit-start.

Many loose holds, otherwise very nice!

Many tries...really nice moves!

Nice an tough warmup!

I haven't climbed any boulders outside for almost two years. Felt hard.

Start with the worst crimps, gradually find better ones. Bad warmup, otherwise maybe okay?

High beta.

I guess I was tall enough to climb this with a slightly easier ninja-beta.

Nice!

I didn't get where the name came from until a surprising sensation just before the end of the route. Based on this, I think I used the correct beta even though I climbed slightly to the left of the drawn line. Satisfying route!

Might feel easier if you're shorter.

Reachy move.

Stand-start from where the line starts. Did not feel hard.

Unique.

Easy if you can reach it, otherwise probably closer to a seven-something.

Harder for tall? :-)

Hard start, reachy end. Easier for longer reachers.

Nice.

Hard bad sharp crinch.

Sit-start like the beta video.

No room for pads in a couple of places, otherwise really nice long route. :-)

Sit-start possible from left undercling and right sider-crimp, or from right arête. :-)

Hands first, feet first, hands first, feet first, hands first, top out.

Easier for long arms. Sharp.

Short but nice. :-)

Did the lock-off, elbow joints making cracking sounds.

Easier for tall. Might be 6B+ or harder for shorter climbers.

Sit-start. Nice.

Sit-start.

Nice and smooth, mostly. :-)

Too sharp for me.

First go after climbing the straight lines. Cleaned and marked the relevant holds before starting. Maybe I cheated with a knee-bar rest but this did not feel that hard. Is the upper part of the crack eliminated?

Top needs some cleaning. Did my best on the way up without any tools.

The weather was quite warm and maybe I had the wrong beta, but this one definitely did not come easily. Two fresh sessions only for this route and broken after both. Luckily I managed this before I ran out of strength...because I needed it on quite a few moves here. I guess I'm not that good on compression routes. Anyway awesome route! Really nice and hard moves all the way...well, up until you manage to step on the arete with both feet. :-)

Staright up, like the line is drawn. Really nice, except for the tree. Took a knee-bar rest and felt the top holds before committing to the straight topout. Decided to trust the tree as my spotter. :-D

Straight up.

Awesome! The beta from KaKi video felt seriously hard, I had to figure out my own beta. Which is of course the best thing about climbing, and routes that enable multiple different betas are thus the most enjoyable. :-)

Learning to squeeze rock Hurissalo style. :-)

Alone.

Hard moves all the way to a rewarding jug at the top. :-)

Nice couple of moves! :-)

Very low crouch start. :-)

Down-climb alone...not recommended...but at least I had 4 crashpads. :-)

Sit-start both hands on the pocket-jug. (The down climb route.)

Sit-start.

Reachy and then sharp. I bled.

Started from a big hold under the lip, but a much lower (and harder) start is possible also. Quite sure the lower start is not 6B. Not sure why this area has not been developed more. Part of the rocks seem somewhat nice.

Not easy, I would say.

Sit-start from broken left crimp on arete and small sharp crimp on the right. Getting myself to the smooth crimp groove was definitely the crux and ended up being all about the foot work; toe-hook on the right and a powerful kneedrop made all the difference between impossible (with my finger strength) and not-that-fingery. A bit morpho beta, probably, but you maybe can also sit-start of you are shorter with a more crimpy beta.

Toppi oikealta, vartalo viivan kohdalla, saako merkata ja downgreidata vai onko eliminaatti? 🤔

Sit-start with huge foot holds.

Very easy if you are tall enough.

Nice. Slightly harder now that I pulled one hold off from the beginning. Probably not quite sit start for shorter...or did I start from the wrong place? Started sit start with right hand stretching high up and left in a small under/sider crimp, feet to the right on the face. Edit: Found some lower holds later on, might be possible to sit start for shorter.

The big hold will come off if you pull on it hard enough...

Sit start. Quite nice moves after the beginning.

And then the topout...yeah. 😬

Thanks for the tick-mark at the top to someone. :-)

Based on Annunen's beta-video, I numbered the holds with Roman numerals before my flash attempt...three hours later I managed to finalise a different beta and climb the route. Nice one. :-)

What, why no more stars ppl? Yes, it's a bit dirty, but this route has some of the coolest holds I've used in Finland on it. Recommended. :-)

Took my time looking at the holds and thinking about various possible betas before trying one---and then changing to another half way up. :-D

Used morpho-beta: Sit-start, right hand to the right, both hands to huge undercling, reached from undercling to top-hold, match, mantel, done.

I started with the wrong beta and then it felt pretty hard and took me quite a few tries to adjust everything to perfection. But then the actual ascent didn't feel super hard, so let's leave this at its initial grade. :-)

Nössöjalkkisbeta. :-)

Thanks for beta video, cool moves this way! (I would have climbed a bit more straight up without the video.)

Surprisingly, eliminating all the bad holds from the crux of 42 (6C) makes the (shared?) crux of Matafaka easier. Well at least if you can reach the good holds. Good luck if you can't. Maybe go to the gym and practice dynos to slopers? And once you manage that, prepare for a much harder topout when compared to the end of 42. But hey, at least this skips the ridiculously easy beginning of 42, so I guess that's why the grade is 6A+ instead of 6C?

Reachy.

Sit start from rock, left hand on crimp, right on sloper, one move to lip, then some traversing... :-)

Thanks for betavideo Henrikki! :-)

Really nice, but possibly a bit reachy.

Climbed it a bit too straight and eliminated a bit too many holds for the grade, but if you don't do the same, this is probably a pretty nice route. :-)

Reachy.

Nice, smooth holds! :-)

Unnecessary eliminate?

Felt hard when the topout was slimy wet. Nice long move and then a 'fun' topout with many options. Take at least a couple of pads and spotters with you if this is near your maximum grade. ;-)

Morpho.

Nice, maybe easier for taller? :-)

Nicer and harder the less holds you use outside the pilar. :-)

One of the best routes at this grade that I've climbed on Finland.

Really long and super pumpy, and this comes from a sport climber. I did not find any full rest to make the route feel bouldery, although there was a pretty good kneebar half way up...I mean half way sideways. ;-) Closer in grade to a 7a+ sport route than any boulder grade. :-)

Really nice route and this would definitely be worth more stars if it was not for the really reachy final crux. :-)

Cleaned one huge topout jug off the route, since it was fully loose.

Hard?

Nice rock quality! Possibly slightly morpho top-out.

Hard top-out. Broken hold?

Hard.

Thanks to Fredde for foot beta over middle section. :-)

Toe-hook higher than hands...thanks to Fredde for beta! :-)

Hard. Crimpy. Painful. Otherwise alright.

Morpho...easier for long-handed individuals. :-)

Beta from years ago, worked today: Sit start with right hand on upper part of good sider, left hand on small sloping sider. Right foot far on the right on a good hold, left foot on friction to the left and under right foot. Lift ass up of the ground, move left foot under and to the right of right foot, toe-hook. Quickly pull with hand and grab sloper-pinch with left hand. Grab other sloper-pinch with right hand. Let right foot come of and move left foot onto sideways hold on left, push until you get right foot on another sideways hold more to the right and then lift left foot nearly to hand-level onto sideways hold on the left. Turn knee in, on top/next to left hand. Reach to sloping side-pull with left hand, grab high crimp with right hand, lift right foot higher. Move both feet higher and grab undercling with left hand. Reach high up with right hand and then...

Topped the boulder, not the cliff. :-)

Finally had time to do this. Luckily I had my beta from my previous try. Really old beta-for-self: Aloitus vasen käsi kahvalla, oikea viereen ylös. Oikea huukki hyvään otteeseen käsien viereen ja vasen jalka pienelle listalle kiven alla, pää menosuuntaan. Eka muuvi oikealla kädellä hyvään otteeseen siten, että oikean jalan huukki mahtuu hyvälle kiteelle käden yläpuolelle. Käden jälkeen vasen jalka käsiotteelle, sitten oikea jalka otteen oikeaan kulmaan ja pitkä veto vasemmalla kädellä huonon väliotteen kautta pidemmälle hyvälle otteelle siten, että oikealle kädelle jää tilaan viereen. Vasemman jalan steppaus oikean viereen ja huukki käden viereen. Nojaus vasempaan käteen ja huukkiin, luotto, oikea käsi vasemman viereen. Pitkähkö muuvi sloupperikahvaan vasemmalla kädellä, vasen jalka lipan alle vasemmalle tueksi tarvittaessa ja oikea huukkiin huonolle väliotteelle. Sitten vääntöpunkeaminen oikean jalan huukin päälle, työntöä vasemmalla jalalla lipan alta. Kurotus listaan 40 cm tai 10 cm vasemmasta laidasta sitten ylös jotenkin!

Flash attempt took me right and I guess I climbed "Inte så fara från Åbo och Nykarleby". I guess this is an eliminate route: don't go right and avoid the right start hold of "Inte så ...". When I found the moves of the slightly more left variation it felt closer to 6C+. Pretty nice route. :-)

Shorter people might need an extra pad + jump to the first hold...so slightly morpho, perhaps. Otherwise really nice route. :-)

Hooks!

Top from the right side of the line. Quite technical and crimpy for me.

Not too bad! I stayed pretty horizontal for the beginning of the climb. :-D

Morpho. :-)

Hard, technical, morpho, fun. :-)

Not too bad. Pretty hard for 6a+. Started with left hand in undercling, right hand on high crimp. First move to left hand crimp, and continuing from it, is pretty hard, it looks broken. Couple of easier moves to a right hand pinch, from which I deadpointed to a better hold high up with me left hand, feet swinging out.

360 style.

Many, many years and many, many tries. Finally. :-)

11.5.2018: Did it properly, from 2 underclings. :-) 5.5.2016: Started with left hand in good undercling and right hand in slightly underclingy sidepull 15 cm to the right from badish undercling. I'll remove this ascent if the bad sidepull isn't allowed? Felt easy for 6C this way, felt hard for 6C without the bad sidepull. ( Couldn't manage it. =) )

High right hand in start.

Hard. But not too hard. :-)

Climbed this first try after Armas. Top left side.

Top right side.

Probably a really nice route but not sure what the route actually is...what is eliminated...and what isn't. The route felt pretty natural to climb without using the jugs for my hands and going for some compression moves instead, but I did use a couple of jugs for my feet near the end. Felt like 6C+ max this way.

Left hand on the white side?! What does it mean?

Trip number 3, session number 7. Happy that it's finally over. 'Travers' adds a couple of really nice moves just before the short version starts.

The top-out was a slight surprise after assuming it would be easy after the beginning and positioning my crash pads slightly badly...

Morpho. Totally did the top-out full seal-style.

Nice moves if you trust your feet. :-)

Nice! :-)

Hard.

All the routes at this sector seemed pretty hard, but this one felt especially hard for the grade. One of the best routes at this sector, though.

Struggled to find a beta that worked for me.

Nice start, too easy finish. :-)

Nice! Slightly reachy.

Eliminate. :-( One nice move though.

Eliminate. :-(

Bad.

Not sure which height is supposed to be used, but seems pretty hard at any height. :-)