Paha Paha Portsari

Good climbing.

Hieno, jatkuva alaosa. 3. Jatko pidennettynä ja esiklippi ekaan jatkoon jees

Nice beginning with many good moves. 3rd bolt extended. Top part a bit runout but easy. 2nd go

Nice moves on an interestingly bolted route. First two bolts pre-clipped as suggested by someone who had had some...experiences...while falling from the second bolt. My arm was barely long enough to clip the third bolt with my left hand without crimping too much with my right hand. Beta-for-self: The three left siders: left hand to first, feet up, right hand to second while staying on the left, feet higher, left hand to third. Right hand to top part of right sider, feet higher with right in slight back-step, dead-point with right hand to lower sloper, catch thumb in the right place. Right foot to foot hold on the right, carefully hold sloper while matching left hand to higher part of sloper, grab crimpy part, and then lift right hand to undercling crack...jam thumb under crack, other fingers in the crack and pinch until the hand is jammed firmly. Lift feet and move left hand to better part of undercling when possible, continue hands to better siders higher up. Observe the feet holds on the left, and the small cracks. Left foot high, pull to the left with both hands from the good sharp hold, then catch the good sloper with left hand. Not the first one, but the one that is hard to reach without lifting your right foot a bit as well. Lift yourself up, avoid any swing to the left by placing right toes on previous hand holds. Reach up to the left-hand-crack-sider-crimp...with your right hand, lift left foot up, lift body up and clip third bolt from the gaston-position. Reach left hand high to slightly better side-pull, right to the right onto a sloper somewhere far away and invisible, then lift your feet up onto some kind of combination of friction and tiny holds. A sloper somewhere on the right will help getting up to the sloping ledge where you can calm down and observe the long path to the forth bolt. On step at a time. Top-out: two good holds in the crack and a third on the right will help getting above the bulge even while tired.

Technical route