Juuso O

In darkness with headlamp, draws on wall

As one long pitch

More scrambling than climbing, not worthy. Linked pitches 1+2 and 3+4.

Anchor placement looked suspicious for me.

date not exact

date not exact

Traversed from second anchor to right to another anchor and then up. I guess this pitch 3 is route 3 left variant, imo works fine like this too. Spaces bolting

Nice sport multipitch on slab. Went the straighest line I found.

second try

Second go, felt very easy for 7a

Ei muistikuvia että ois yrkätty.

Otti useampia sessioita. Lopulta 7.2025 kuumana päivänä meni yht'äkkiä tosi helposti, auttoiko ekan pultin esiklippaus niin paljo?

First bolt really high and and loose blocks on the start

Alku hyvä, yläkerta vähän vaikealukuinen

Epäilyttävän kivenlaadun ja korkean eka pultin tähden en suosittele

Dangerous: first bolt high and you hang on loose blocks. 3m clipstick is barely enough

WARNING: First bolt high, bad landing.

WARNING: First bolt high, bad landing.

WARNING: First bolt high, bad landing.

WARNING: First bolt high, bad landing.

About 15m, 5 bolts

Hyi mitä irtokiviä useammassa kohtaa, sais näyttää sorkkarautaa. Ilman irtokiviä tähtireitti

Alku vähän seikkailua, sitte flow

Alku **. Kahlitun kiven kautta, sinne ohjasi luontaisesti. Eheää kiveä, jee!

Easy

Loppu hyvää!

Ihan hyvä, lyhyt vain

Lyhyt, hyvää

Olin kuulevani lohkareen rutinaa kun siinä roikuin, kuumotti

** cool. Be slab or fail

About 18m.

Pataman toimivin pulttaus

Pilarin kautta, ei chimneytä.

*** cool comfy size large chimney. Sport, new bolts. Linked first and second pitch, doable with some unclipping manouvers around 1st anchor.

New bolts, sport route

** cool. Sport, new bolts. Linked first and second pitch, doable with some unclipping manouvers around 1st anchor.

Last meters look cool

Did the first pitch

Easy long

I think i climbed the leftmost route. Cool line! Though much harder than 4’s on Artista sector. Is possible I was on the other route.

* one star for length. Otherwise did not find it that special

*** Long continous easy route

One of tye first routes to dry after rain

Aivan hienoa kiipeilyä

Petiksen helpoista hienoin

Short-ish

Nice size and continous

Second go

Nice long route.

Rock quality is quite horrible. Some (really) good climbing too. Very much rope drag even with multiple 60cm long draws! Lead with two mental rests on crux.

About 17m, not 25m. As second pitch.

** Good climbing

30-35 meters

Adventurous scrambly route. Easy to get lots of rope drag. No stars.

** nice. 12-13 bolts on first pitch. Maybe 5+

Tämä menty jo joskus vuosia sitten ja varmasti useampaan kertaan.

Nooo ihan hyvä jatko helpolle alulle, itsessään turha

Ehkä 15m. Selkeä linja

Kallion päällä ankkuri

Agree, protectable with normal gear.

6b, mutta tekninen. otteet löytyy ja on verrattain isoja, ei mitään minikrimppejä.

Ihan ok, muttei ei tähtiä. Selkeä mutta rikkonainen linja. Ehkä 15m ankkurille ja toinen pitsi pultattu.

Ei tarvi lisää pultteja, hyvin varmistettava

Kaksi ekaa jatkoa klipattuna ekan yrkän jäljiltä. Eka hyvä esiklipata, sinänsä toinenkin koska on aika kaukana ja huonohko klippipaikka.

Helppo, 6b ehkä, ei kai 6c?

kaikki tarvittava puhdasta

Lyhyt, kelpoa kiipeilyä kuiten

Lyhyt

Erinomainen reitti! Jotain sportin ja trädin väliltä. Ehkä 6b Kustavissa? Ei ollu puhdas nousu, minilepo.

Erinomainen reitti tämäkin! Ei ollu puhdas nousu, minilepo. Siihen nähden kuin helposti meni kauden ekat trädit sanoisin että tää on joku kutonen.

Very crimpy, good for those who like - me not

quite polished :(

quite polished :(

Easy to be 7a. quite ok

Easy not technical

Super! Topo is quite coarse and there was another route on left (not in topo, yippee) so not sure if it was this route. Approach to top took 2 hours, horrible, do not try without a good gps track (not in topo, yippee).

good! About same difficulty than Adele L1 (which is marked as 7a)

Climbed last 30some meters from anchor on a small ledge. Unfortunately the topo is unclear and incomplete so not sure which route - there was bolted route also on left side on the face.

warning: Definately not rebolted.

warning: Definately not rebolted, rusty pitons and few rusty bolts. Climbs good, is demanding. Upper half is not as super as first, turns into slab. Length is less than 35 meters.

Warning: only first, third and mid-anchor-ish thing (no need for mid-anchor) are not rusty! Yer gonna die. Vertical or slight slab. Based on 70m rope i would say route is 35m or less. Good climbing, not easy. Maybe 6c?

First pitch is harder imo, second easier.

** Varied. And it truly climbs all the way to top. Length must be around 60 meters, not 40m.

2nd try

Good start. Then I guess I was little lost with the crack, did not see any bolts before the final roof.

It is max 65m

We started between Boce and Tres from nice looking open spot some meters higher. Climbed in two long pitches with 70m rope. I recall there was total of tive to six bolts and two anchors and one final bolt which we did not use. Mostly grade 3, higher up few meters grade 4-5. Overall very good - shame the route names are not written in situ better - once started it was easy to navigate just straight up.

Not so juggy. Less than 20m.

Easy until i lost the route in ~third anchor, after less than 35m.

Did 35m to anchor.

Date not exact, 2023?

date not exact, 2023 most likely

date not exact

is a long slab

varied, long climb. date not exact.

date not exact, 2023 most likely

Correct sector is Toppveggen.

Varied

Good climbing higher up. But getting there was way too scray on hollow sounding rock.

Some good climbing higher up, but too scary on hollow sounding rock.

Very good flow ***

sport. kvaloya, norja.

* On preclipped draws - big thanks Lauri! Did not remember I had tried some years ago, though it to be flash :X Imo easier than Knasbollen (which is currently 6C)

Easy to read

Lead with rests, then top roped. Easy to read

Good varied climb **

Climbs good **

Sporttikiipeilijän vaativuus 5 tai 5+

Tiukka alku. Hieno, paljon erilaista kiivettävää.

Lead fail 2025-7

Lead fail 2025-7

*

Helppo. Otekiipeilin hyvin pitkälti

** Hyvää kiipeilyä. Selkeähköä linja. +28 c ja pystyi kiivetä eli ei erityisen herkkä.

Vähän seikkaileva

**

Hyvää kokoa

*** kustavi classics

*

Good climbing.

Good climbing. First bolt is quite high, one or two smallish camalots could be used for scramble.

***

Good climbing. Might be hard for shorter people.

Top roped some variation of this. First bolt was on left of mid belay station. Then one more bolt and rest were pitons until last bolt at very top. This seemed the easiest way up, but the route must go more left where the bolts go - left side of small crack. Imo pitons would be worth replacing with bolts.

Airy

Failed onsight. Found beta on next session. Climbed on third.

Oispa pidempi

Monipuolinen, ylhäällä makiaa

Nice climbing. I would say about 6b+ after doing multiple repeats. Even 6c if compared to routes next to it.

Short but quite nice. Easy, definately not more than 6c and maybe even 6b-6b+.

Short but quite nice. Easy.

***

***

Pitkä

Tymäklä alku

Hieno loppu

Hyvää kiipeiluä. Kuumotti.

Good climbing! Lead 2025-7

Good climbing! 6a+ or 6b.

Good climbing! First bolt at 4 meters :P Lead 2025-7.

meni melko helposti tämän vuoden treenimääriin nähden.

Toistaiseksi kallion helpoin reitti, nelonen

Ehkä 6b+, tuntui paljon vaikeammalta kuin viereinen Teräsnyrkki. Erinomainen nimi

pitkiä liikkeitä?

ainakin 5+ tai 6a.

aivan hyvää nurkkakönyämistä. 5?

not the easiest route to place gear

*** Flash lead ended to roof. Gear placed in wrong place.

mostly holds, very little jamming

mostly jamming

pitkälti otekiipeilyä

trad. Imo it is not easier than other Amelies.

I liked "Amelie oikea" much more.

good jamming on single crack

hieno selkeä linja. sai vääntääkin.

kunnon käsihalkeama

short

short and easyish

date not exact

Proper multipitch adventure for us, 8h30 car to car... Airy!

Easy

Season starter. Horrible start. Horrible feeling also higher up.

Not too many placements but semi ok.

Alkupungerruksen jälkeen kallion helpoin reitti Palapelin kanssa.

helppo ja selkeä reitti

red point lead with rests

Lappi 6a eli ehkä semmonen 6b. Hyvää teknistä kiipeilyä kaikki kolme kutosta vierekkäin.

Hankala trädiksi

tech, crimps. Hieno yläosan nega.

some crimps

some crimps