Juuso O

*** cool comfy size large chimney. Sport, new bolts. Linked first and second pitch, doable with some unclipping manouvers around 1st anchor.

New bolts, sport route

** cool. Sport, new bolts. Linked first and second pitch, doable with some unclipping manouvers around 1st anchor.

Last meters look cool

Did the first pitch

Easy long

I think i climbed the leftmost route. Cool line! Though much harder than 4’s on Artista sector. Is possible I was on the other route.

* one star for length. Otherwise did not find it that special

*** Long continous easy route

One of tye first routes to dry after rain

Aivan hienoa kiipeilyä

Petiksen helpoista hienoin

Short-ish

Nice size and continous

Second go

Nice long route.

Rock quality is quite horrible. Some (really) good climbing too. Lots of rope drag! Lead with two mental rests on crux.

About 17m, not 25m. As second pitch.

** Good climbing

30-35 meters

Adventurous scrambly route. Easy to get lots of rope drag. No stars.

** nice. 12-13 bolts on first pitch. Maybe 5+

Tämä menty jo joskus vuosia sitten ja varmasti useampaan kertaan.

Nooo ihan hyvä jatko helpolle alulle, itsessään turha

Ehkä 15m. Selkeä linja

Kallion päällä ankkuri

Agree, protectable with normal gear.

6b, mutta tekninen. otteet löytyy ja on verrattain isoja, ei mitään minikrimppejä.

Ihan ok, muttei ei tähtiä. Selkeä mutta rikkonainen linja. Ehkä 15m ankkurille ja toinen pitsi pultattu.

Ei tarvi lisää pultteja, hyvin varmistettava

Kaksi ekaa jatkoa klipattuna ekan yrkän jäljiltä. Eka hyvä esiklipata, sinänsä toinenkin koska on aika kaukana ja huonohko klippipaikka.

Helppo, 6b ehkä, ei kai 6c?

kaikki tarvittava puhdasta

Lyhyt, kelpoa kiipeilyä kuiten

Lyhyt

Lyhyt mutta hyvä

Two sessions.

On 3rd

Lyhyt reitti. Aloitin keskeltä kun siihe kuite ylettää helposti.

6b/6b+

Topped to right, the obvious easiest way.

FA?

FA?

* good for the grade. Later one hold broke partially but does not affect the grade.

Erinomainen reitti! Jotain sportin ja trädin väliltä. Ehkä 6b Kustavissa? Ei ollu puhdas nousu, minilepo.

Erinomainen reitti tämäkin! Ei ollu puhdas nousu, minilepo. Siihen nähden kuin helposti meni kauden ekat trädit sanoisin että tää on joku kutonen.

Very crimpy, good for those who like - me not

quite polished :(

quite polished :(

Easy to be 7a. quite ok

Easy not technical

Super! Topo is quite coarse and there was another route on left (not in topo, yippee) so not sure if it was this route. Approach to top took 2 hours, horrible, do not try without a good gps track (not in topo, yippee).

good! About same difficulty than Adele L1 (which is marked as 7a)

Climbed last 30some meters from anchor on a small ledge. Unfortunately the topo is unclear and incomplete so not sure which route - there was bolted route also on left side on the face.

warning: Definately not rebolted.

warning: Definately not rebolted, rusty pitons and few rusty bolts. Climbs good, is demanding. Upper half is not as super as first, turns into slab. Length is less than 35 meters.

Warning: only first, third and mid-anchor-ish thing (no need for mid-anchor) are not rusty! Yer gonna die. Vertical or slight slab. Based on 70m rope i would say route is 35m or less. Good climbing, not easy. Maybe 6c?

First pitch is harder imo, second easier.

** Varied. And it truly climbs all the way to top. Length must be around 60 meters, not 40m.

2nd try

Good start. Then I guess I was little lost with the crack, did not see any bolts before the final roof.

It is max 65m

We started between Boce and Tres from nice looking open spot some meters higher. Climbed in two long pitches with 70m rope. I recall there was total of tive to six bolts and two anchors and one final bolt which we did not use. Mostly grade 3, higher up few meters grade 4-5. Overall very good - shame the route names are not written in situ better - once started it was easy to navigate just straight up.

Not so juggy. Less than 20m.

Easy until i lost the route in ~third anchor, after less than 35m.

Did 35m to anchor.

Meni aika helposti: Vaati vähän yrkkiä, muttei kummempia urotekoja.

Have done before

Date not exact, 2023?

is a long slab

Correct sector is Toppveggen.

Varied

Good climbing higher up. But getting there was way too scray on hollow sounding rock.

Some good climbing higher up, but too scary on hollow sounding rock.

Very good flow ***

sport. kvaloya, norja.

* On preclipped draws - big thanks Lauri! Did not remember I had tried some years ago, though it to be flash :X Imo easier than Knasbollen (which is currently 6C)

Easy to read

Lead with rests, then top roped. Easy to read

Good varied climb **

Climbs good **

Sporttikiipeilijän vaativuus 5 tai 5+

No nyt o varmasti kiivettt tämäkin

Ehkä kiivennyt tämän jo aiemmin

Muistaakseni kiivenny tämän jo aiemmin

Nyt ekalla. En muista olenko testannu aiemmin.

Aika monta yritystä

Hyviä liikkeitä

En tiä onko uusia otteita vai mitä kun vaikeus tuntui melko samalta ku mcpocketissa. Kulman oikeella hyvä pystylista/ote ok?

Hetki meni otteita hakiessa

En saanu mitenkää tästä vitosta

Sitstarttina

Static beta, used all holds on the way as no eliminates were mentioned. Edit: did also more direct version without big holds

Helppo, ehkä 6C

Lyhyehkö mutta hieno. Vaati vähän työstämistä ja venymistä.

Short. 6b+?

2nd go. Topout mantle of course.

Kiipesin seisomalädön ja myös istumalähtönä (6b?)

Tiukka alku. Hieno, paljon erilaista kiivettävää.

Vihdoin. Hesalaisten (Jasun) beta

Short

Find the red spot, and then little to right

Assume this is stand start. If ss then grade is even much more

I assume it is on the corner, stand start

Up from corner/nose middle

Feels cool

** good

Ss

Ss

And jammers

Clear

Summer 2022, date not exact

*

Helppo. Otekiipeilin hyvin pitkälti

** Hyvää kiipeilyä. Selkeähköä linja. +28 c ja pystyi kiivetä eli ei erityisen herkkä.

Vähän seikkaileva

**

Hyvää kokoa

*** kustavi classics

*

Good climbing.

Good climbing. First bolt is quite high, one or two smallish camalots could be used for scramble.

***

Good climbing. Might be hard for shorter people.

Top roped some variation of this. First bolt was on left of mid belay station. Then one more bolt and rest were pitons until last bolt at very top. This seemed the easiest way up, but the route must go more left where the bolts go - left side of small crack. Imo pitons would be worth replacing with bolts.

Airy

Failed onsight. Found beta on next session. Climbed on third.

Monipuolinen, ylhäällä makiaa

Nice climbing. I would say about 6b+ after doing multiple repeats. Even 6c if compared to routes next to it.

Short but quite nice. Easy, definately not more than 6c and maybe even 6b-6b+.

Short but quite nice. Easy.

Lyhyt

***

***

Pitkä

Tymäklä alku

Hieno loppu

Hyvää kiipeiluä. Kuumotti.

Good climbing!

Good climbing! 6a+ or 6b.

Good climbing! First bolt at 4 meters :P

meni melko helposti tämän vuoden treenimääriin nähden.

Toistaiseksi kallion helpoin reitti, nelonen

Ehkä 6b+, tuntui paljon vaikeammalta kuin viereinen Teräsnyrkki. Erinomainen nimi

pitkiä liikkeitä?

ainakin 5+ tai 6a.

aivan hyvää nurkkakönyämistä. 5?

not the easiest route to place gear

*** Flash lead ended to roof. Gear placed in wrong place.

mostly holds, very little jamming

mostly jamming

pitkälti otekiipeilyä

trad. Imo it is not easier than other Amelies.

I liked "Amelie oikea" much more.

good jamming on single crack

hieno selkeä linja. sai vääntääkin.

kunnon käsihalkeama

short

short and easyish