Hannu-Pekka Hyppänen

Ei ollut ihan helppo toppimätsi lyhyemmälle. Tosin kosteusprosentti oli ainakin 1000 joten kitkakin heikko.

Työstin syvempää starttii ja ei tuntunu jaloille löytyvän paikkoja. Nousin ylös ja tää versio meni ekalla. Jatkan sittarin työstämistä, mikä lienee lähempänä 7B:tä. On muuten hyvä kallio tämä. Veskulle kiitokset löydöstä ja putsauksesta!

Tykkäsin. Kruxi ei tuntunu ihan tyypilliselta 6a:lta.

Olipas mieluisa pikku muuvittelu

Hellekitkojen marginaalinen nousu. Emililtä kriittinen avain keksiosalle. Pitkän dynon sijaan käytin vasemman kantin ylintä käsiotetta ja siitä vasuri toppiin. 7A+/7B. Tykkäsin.

miellyttäviä muuvsseja

oikein hyvä

Team send with Janis, Jyrki and Rami

One star for route, one star for special beta solving its morphoish nature

Muutama vuos sitten annoin pari yrkkää ja tuntu vaikeelta. Tänään tuntu aluks yhtä vaikeelta ja olin mielessäni jo upgreidaamassa kunnes joku lukko aukes ja reitti meni helpon oloisesti.

hyvä!

my style of route

Veikeä beta kantoi hedelmää

Proper crimping

Epätyypillinen Suomi-boulderi. Ja hyvä. Vähän jopa jotain hiekkakivifiboja. Ihan Espanjaan asti ei ajatuksissa päästy Janiksen ja Jussin kaa kun tätä työstettiin nimittäin maa oli jo jäässä ja ihan pilkkopimee.

Parempi kuin miltä näyttää

Toppimiikat. Tokalla.

Lämppäriksi tätä kiivetty ja tuntuu tiukalta 6a:lta

Vähän oli taas likainen yläosasta mutta silti erittäin hyvä. Greidiinsä nähden rapea ainakin hellekitkoilla. Jotenki tuntui samantasoiselta ku Hybrishalkeama.

Hieno. Oispa pidempi.

With Salla. We came benieth this few days ago but chose to climb "Blod eller gull" as "Månedans" didnt seem good from benieth. After looking this one from caravan for one evening, we chose to return for it. It was worth it, definately good. In the first pitch there was some shit, but 3rd pitch is the shit. 2 stars for thr 3rd pitch alone.

With Salla. Excellent route with good climbing all the way. P3 crack was nice but somehow tricky for my footwork.

Magnificent! With Salla. Led 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9

With Salla. It was excellent. I led 1st and 3rd pitch (7- version).

With Salla. Led both pitches. Quite a wrestle that first pitch. Body jamming skills come in handy as well as #5 or #6 cam. Second pitch is really nice. And easier than first.

Really pleasent pitch

Really nice! 2nd go

Cruxy and really good! 2nd go

One spacious bolt distance.

1st go but climbed the 7a+ version first

3rd go. Arete eliminate limits the stars

nice moves

A classic. Remembering the beta was the challenge for me.

softer side maybe...and nice

Long and continuous

Short but technical and nice moves

World class

Superb

Superb tufas and more

Steep and short 6b

Spaced protection

L1

Great beta from Petteri

Thanks for killer beta from Petteri

FA

FA

FA

FA

quite special

Eliminated high horizontal crack. Use what you want.

Nimensä mukainen keinuttelu

Great route. Especially second pitch. Led 1st and 2nd.

Great second pitch. Also first pitch has some extraordinary climbing for Lofoten towards the end. Direkte-insteget is not worth it. Last pitch is short but includes some nice moves also.

Good easy route. NOTE that first pitch of Smeagul and Gollum are reversed here in 27 picture and also in the Rockfax topo. Smeagul is on the left and Gollum on the right. Gollum starts on top of a boulder. Gollum also continues straight up from first stand. Grades and descriptions are correct, Gollum being 5 and Smeagul 5+.

Excellent! Even the first easy pitch was great. Led all.

Good route but not as great jammin as expected. Tricky approach.

Led 2nd and 4th. Pretty good route. Descent is somewhat interesting and requires scrambling, lowering or simu downclimbing + abseil anchor searching. Abseil anchor is hidden above a slab with dark lines. We downclimbed/scrambled the descent route for about 30m simu and then climbed up the easy slab about 10 m to reach the abseil anchor.

Good first pitch and great second pitch (for the grade).

Sweet!

Sweet!

Good and long for the grade

Good and long for the grade

My hali wasnt big enough so I cheated with a crimp.

Hieno. Nahkaa ja verta kului.

sit start

eliminanteista huolimatta mielenkiintonen probleema

Hyvällä tavalla erikoinen

Son siinä kinthaala olisko 6C+ vai 7A

Excellent boulder! Thanks to beta video, managed to send this one on 2nd go. Fell from last long move in my flash attempt.

Thanks Rami and Jyrki for key beta and support.

+30C... tuntui napakalta vitskalta

Korkea ja hieno