Attention! A Huge rockfall occurred (2024) at the right part of Sjöväggen. The routes that are likely to be affected are; Bläckfisken, Kapten Haddock, Fasta former and Ada. The start of Tintin and Milou are also affected by the rock fall. The wall has not yet been examined more closely and there may still be loose material left that could fall down.
Important information: There is only space for 3 cars next to the electric house in the intersection of Lillängdalsvägen / Dundervägen. If it is full, parking somewhere else in the intersection is completely out of the question! The road association is very angry at those who have done this!
This is probably Stockholm's most exotic location if you want to climb entertaining and overhanging sports routes in an equally spectacular environment. The scenery is simply just stunning. The approach is somewhat tricky but it doesn't take more than fifteen minutes from the parking. The main sectors are Sjöväggen and Högklint. Do not expect to be able to climb on both walls on the same day since the approach trail is rather tiring. If you haven't been here before Sjöklippan is typically your first hand choice. Weather conditions can vary greatly and hot days might work if you got a fresh breeze blowing along the wall. In spring and autumn, it's probably best if the wind is really calm. During July and weekends, boat traffic can be quite intense.
Sjöväggen:
The location with the overhanging wall over the water and its perfect sunbathing rocks below makes this relatively small crag quite matchless in Stockholm. The steep wall partly hangs out over the water but there is a land tongue under the cliff which makes the routes accessible. The wall is about 15 m high and hangs over 1-2 meters. Generally has good rock quality, but there are some loose sections here and there. Sjöväggen can be difficult to locate and includes an easier down-climbing passage which makes it unsuitable for kids. Although there are some easy routes here the best span is between 6c-8a. The sun strikes the wall at around midday and doesn't leave until it sets in the evening.
Högklint:
The routes at Högklint are shorter but more overhanging than Sjöklippan and the climbing is more bouldery and intense. The main attraction is the route Salt Sill and a couple of variations next to it. The little wall above (Balkongen) has a couple of quite nice and steep but very short easier routes that might work if you don't climb so hard, especially if combined with a swim. A little wall 50 meters south of Högklint called "Lilla grottan" has recently been developed. There are only two routes at Lilla grottan but they are steep and fun and worth a go. The approach is easier for Högklint compared with Sjöklippan. Högklint is facing south but it's so steep that the sun barely strikes the wall during June/July. The Balcony is in the shade until two or three clocks in the afternoon.
Svaväggen:
About fifteen meters high slab wall that goes straight down into the water, located between Högklint and Sjöklippan. The route starts from a ledge and you have to rappel down. These routes are almost never climbed so bring a brush.
Svaväggen DWS:
Take the same approach as to Lilla Grottan, but follow the waterline south to Svaväggen where you can reach the start of the DWS routes dry by walking over a rocky 'beach'.
