Stockholm

With up to 3,500 sport climbing and trad routes spread over 150 crags, Stockholm is Sweden's most developed and concentrated climbing area, and here on 27 crags you can find all the best and finest crags. In addition there's some bouldering crags included in these Premium topos too. The area offers varied climbing and all the crags have their own very special character, style and environment. In Stockholm, you will find everything from long pumpy slightly overhanging climbs to short and bouldery ones. Choose some easily accessible crag in the city or drive only 30 minutes (10-30 km) to a crag surrounded by a beautiful archipelago environment. Unique for Stockholm is the huge concentration of crags located within a radius of just 30 km. Many crags are also easily accessible by a well-developed public transport system. As a stopover on a climbing trip or during a visit to Stockholm, the area stands out very well. There are a large number of well-bolted sports routes (only a few really good trad-climbs) of all grades and angles in Stockholm that will have you occupied for several weeks. ☀️ Climate The climbing season normally runs from mid-April to the end of October. On sunny days during the height of summer, it will probably be hot on south-facing walls, but there are a lot of options if you choose the right wall and time of day. Many walls face west and you can climb those walls in the morning when they are in the shade. In the summer the sun doesn't set until 10 o'clock in the evening, and south-facing walls usually work well in the late afternoon/evening. The number of rainy days in Stockholm during the summer months (June, July and August) is between 9-10 on average, but many of these consist of afternoon showers. The average daily temperature is between 20-22 degrees Celsius. 🏠 Accommodation As with all big cities, there are plenty of options and it shouldn't be any major problem to find overnight accommodation in e.g. hotels or hostels, etc. If you drive a motorhome and are a little discreet, you can probably spend the night at many of the parking lots at various cliffs around Stockholm. Some of the rocks are also very suitable for overnight stays with tents (see the text further down). 🔩 Here's the best crags for sport climbing (in random order): Örnberget: The number one sport climbing outdoor “climbing gym” in Stockholm with over 150 bolted routes in all grades and angles. Mostly steep overhanging and sustained 20 - 25 meter long routes between 6c-8a. A less steep sector (slab) with easier routes is also available. This crag also works quite well on hot sunny days on late afternoon/evening (Sydväggen). Easily accessible crag with parking close to the crag. Skevik: Long sustained and slightly overhanging bolted routes. Here you will find some of Stockholm's absolute best sports routes between 6c-7c. Very popular. Dödskalleberget: Beautifully and openly situated with mostly quite difficult and slightly overhanging technical and crimpy face climbing. Several routes of very high class on a beautiful rock. Tumbaklippan: around 10 meters high easily accessible vertical/slightly overhanging and easily accessible wall with many enjoyable bolted climbing routes around 6b-7a+. Great rock quality. Good parking spot and a short approach. Gåeborg: This area has a plentiful number of routes in mixed angles and grades. The rock is very nicely located in a nature reserve by Lake Mälaren. Good place for overnight stays and barbecues. One of the best and most popular crags on the north side of the town. Kanalklippan: Vertical blast crag with many long and very well-bolted routes between 5a-6b located almost in the middle of town. Very popular and easily accessible wall. Perfect after work climbing in the afternoon sun. Henriksdal: Only 10 meters high but very steep small gym crag with walking/cycling distance from Södermalm. Shade after 1 pm. Blocky and slightly loose rock quality, but with fun and really steep climbing. Flaten: Very popular rock with all degrees of difficulty. Mostly short and steep climbs that are quite bouldery. Good crag if you have small children and there is a swimming area nearby. Well visited. Ecoberget: High and large crag beautifully situated with a nice view out over the water. Here you will find a large number of very fine routes on a fantastically compact and solid stone that can be experienced as a bit slippery. Finnsvedsberget: Overhanging and spectacular sport climbing right next to the water in a unique and fantastic archipelago environment. Parking can be difficult (go early). Stora Skramsö: Large and mighty rock on an island in a fantastic archipelago environment. There are some nice fully bolted routes here, but also a number of demanding mixed/traditionally protected ones. A rowing boat is available completely free of charge. Perfect place for weekend climbing with an overnight stay. Morarna: Very nice looking slightly overhanging 20-meter wall with a couple of Stockholm's finest sports climbs. Beautiful and peaceful natural environment with a campfire next to the crag. Parking is located only 50 meters from the wall. Sjötorpsberget: A very popular wall that is only 10-15 meters high and slightly overhanging. Lots of well-bolted routes in all grades. This crag fits everybody. Nyckelvikberget: A big and high water polished crag with lots of low-grade bolted mostly very slabby routes which should suit beginners perfectly, or those who just want to enjoy the nice view of the water and the excellent quality solid rock. A couple of smaller walls offer steeper and more difficult climbing. Close to town and convenient parking close to the wall. Ryssgraven: Plenty of bolted easier routes. Mostly slab. This crag is popular among beginners and also for rock climbing courses. Nice view and easily accessible anchors at the top if you want to rig toprope. Nacka kvarn: Slightly overhanging nice smaller sport climbing wall near town. Fits well to take the bike to this crag. Popular after-work crag. Uddeuddberget: Many bolted routes from 6c and up. Pretty long routes. Good in spring but also works well in the evenings on hot summer days. Träskberget: All grades and angles. Plenty of both bolted and naturally protected climbs. Dyviksudd: Very elongated rock formation with many traditionally protected routes, but also with a number of very fine bolted ones. Lord Hård-väggen and Apocalypse Wall are most popular if you want to climb bolted routes. Noret: Many walls with different angles and heights. Very nice nature and view. Svarttjärn: Quite a long way to go and drive, but well worth it if you want to try some of the coolest and hardest climbs in Stockholm. The routes are heavily overhanging but no higher than 8-9 meters. Well hidden in the forest. Mostly of interest if you climb from 7c and harder. Hallstaberget: A pretty good wall with mixed grades and angles. ⛰ Crags with traditionally protected climbing If you are looking for traditionally protected climbing, Stockholm is not a first-hand choice, but there are still some crags that are worth a stop. One must be prepared that many of the traditional climbs can be tricky to protect. You need to be a fairly experienced climber to be able to take part in the relatively large range of traditionally protected routes in Stockholm. Grönbrinksberget: This is by far the best crag in Stockholm for traditional climbing and the one I would primarily recommend to anyone visiting Stockholm and looking for traditional climbs. Vårdberget: Very beautiful and family-friendly environment with a fireplace and wind protection. Suitable for overnight stays. The wall is no more than 10 meters high, but there are lots of fine crack lines on solid and beautiful stone. Some routes can be a little difficult to protect, but there are plenty of easily accessible anchor bolts at the top if you want to rig a top rope. Gritstone: A very nice high-quality wall with demanding traditional climbing. Häggsta: Big rock and a classic climbing area with lots of quite easy but difficult-to-protect routes on a rock that may not be of the very best quality. Very good in spring. Klövberget: Adventure climbing for the experienced trad climber. A high wall facing the water where you lower yourself down. Fantastic view and some nice classics. Dyviksudd: A number of scattered epoch-making and often demanding classics. No beginner crag. The crag is long and there are many trees in front of the rock, which means that it can be difficult to orientate finding your desired route. Runsa: Somewhat limited range, but with a couple of really nice traditionally protected routes. Cosy nature and a nice view over Lake Mälaren from the top. ☀️ 🥵 Climbs in the shade when it is warm and sunny Margreteberg: Small slightly overhanging rock with difficult and bouldery routes. Compact and excellent stone quality. Henriksdal: 10 meters high and very steep gym grag within walking/cycling distance from Södermalm in Stockholm. Shadow after 1 pm. Blocky and slightly loose rock quality, but with fun climbing and a quite popular wall. Brakmaren: 10 meters high but very steep gym rock with good parking and a short approach. Very fun routes in the grade range 6c-8a. Shade after about 1 pm. Kyrkvikklippan: Rarely visited 10-meter crag with a large roof. A couple of nice climbs. Anneberg: Short but nice overhanging harder routes on a very compact and solid wall. Shade until about 3 pm in the afternoon. Ekholmsnäs: A rather odd wall/place with a couple of ok bolted routes. Parking 5 meters from the wall.