Routes on Finnsvedsberget

48 sport 3 trad

We like Finnsvedsberget

Approach till sjöklippan
Spännande approach, ta bra skor...
Overhang and jugs and ofcourse the sea at the belayers feet.

Activities on this crag


The area is access sensitive!

Parking is no longer allowed anywhere at the intersection of Lillängdalsvägen / Dundervägen and the area around the electrical cabinet. Parking bans prevail along the entire Lillängsdalsvägen! The nearest parking is at Ingarö church (5 km away). 45 min walk.

It is absolutely forbidden to walk along the coast to Sjöväggen and If you depart too early from the path you will end up among cabins by the water. That is absolutely not recommended. Back away immediately! It has turned out that there are very aggressive home owners here.

Directions to Sjöväggen:
Drive Värmdöleden (222) towards Gustavsberg. Turn off towards Ingarö (646). After 2 km you pass a bridge, continue 500 meter and turn left and park at Ingarö Church. Walk back and follow Ingarövägen about 4 km and turn right at Svartkrutsvägen, and then shortly left on to Kanonportsvägen. Then follow Dundervägen to its end. The path that takes at divides immediately, take left. The path immediately divides again, take left again. After about 100 meters follow path to the right (from here there are green dots leading all the way down to Sjöklippan). After 200 m the path divides, turn left. After 50 m you start to approach the water and the rocks. Continue another 30-50 m along the path. Turn to left towards the water via a sloping slope and "open street" in the terrain (there is usually a small cairn (röse) to the right of the path that indicates where to turn towards the water). If you depart too early from the path, you will end up among cabins by the water. it's absolutely forbidden to go this way or along the coast to the crag. If you go wrong, back away, it has turned out that there are very aggressive home owners here. Through different "floors", you will reach down to the water. At one passage keep right near the wall to avoid sliding down into the loose gravel, at another passege you hold a narrow tree and make an easier down climb (2 meters). The cliff is 50 m to the right when you have reached all the way down to the water.

Directions to Högklint:
Same as for Sjöväggen but continiu straight ahead along the trail where you turn left towards the water when you go to Sjöväggen. Continue the path about 200 meters and turn left immediately after a telephone line.
To get to "Balkongen" you can continue the path a few meters to a fireplace and from there move down to the water. Balkongen can also be reached from the main wall via a sling/bolt at the far left of the main wall.
Lilla grottan is located just 40 meters south from the main wall. Just before you arrive at Högklint the path divides and you walk left up the hill and then follow the cliff edge leftwards until you relatively easy can climb down. When you have climbed down the little nice "cave" is just a few meters to the right.