Routes on Finnsvedsberget

49 sport 3 trad 1 boulder 4 DWS

We like Finnsvedsberget

Mycket sol och livets varmaste dopp i Sverige.
Fint läge vid vattnet. Klurig anmarsch men de flesta hittar nog efter lite letande. Badmöjligheter. Gillar man motorbåtar får man här tillfälle att både se och höra en och annan :)
Inga mygg och sköna dopp!

Activities on this crag


The area is access sensitive!

It is not allowed to park anywhere on the road at the intersection Lillängdalsvägen / Dundervägen except for three car spaces next to the electric house. If these three spaces are occupied, YOU MUST drive 4 km back to the first parking space. It is ABSOLUTELY FORBIDDEN to park ANYWHERE ELSE at the intersection. The road association is very angry with us at the moment and we climbers must handle this in a good way now!

Directions to Sjöväggen:
Drive Värmdöleden (222) towards Gustavsberg. Turn off towards Ingarö (646). After 2 km you pass a bridge, turn right immediately after the bridge and follow Lillängsdalsvägen for about 4 km. Park at the intersection Lillängdalsvägen / Dundervägen next to an electric house. Please note that there is only room for 3 cars here. If it is full, you MUST go back 4 km and park at the parking lot at Bergviksvägen. Then follow Dundervägen to its end. The path that takes at divides immediately, take left. The path immediately divides again, take left again. After about 100 meters follow path to the right (from here there are green dots leading all the way down to Sjöklippan). After 200 m the path divides, turn left. After 50 m you start to approach the water and the rocks. Continue another 30-50 m along the path. Turn to left towards the water via a sloping slope and "open street" in the terrain (there is usually a small cairn (röse) to the right of the path that indicates where to turn towards the water). If you depart too early from the path, you will end up among cabins by the water. it's absolutely forbidden to go this way or along the coast to the crag. If you go wrong, back away, it has turned out that there are very aggressive home owners here. Through different "floors", you will reach down to the water. At one passage keep right near the wall to avoid sliding down into the loose gravel, at another passege you hold a narrow tree and make an easier down climb (2 meters). The cliff is 50 m to the right when you have reached all the way down to the water.

Directions to Högklint:
Same as for Sjöväggen but continiu straight ahead along the trail where you turn left towards the water when you go to Sjöväggen. Continue the path about 200 meters and turn left immediately after a telephone line.
To get to "Balkongen" you can continue the path a few meters to a fireplace and from there move down to the water. Balkongen can also be reached from the main wall via a sling/bolt at the far left of the main wall.
Lilla grottan is located just 40 meters south from the main wall. Just before you arrive at Högklint the path divides and you walk left up the hill and then follow the cliff edge leftwards until you relatively easy can climb down. When you have climbed down the little nice "cave" is just a few meters to the right.
To reach the Svaväggen DWS, take the same approach as to Lilla Grottan, but follow the waterline south to Svaväggen where you can reach the start of the DWS routes dry by walking over a rocky 'beach'.