Name | Grade | Type | Ascents | Rating | Sector | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Kapten Haddock
|
700
7a
|
Sport | 85 | |||
Gör mig till kung
|
380
5+
|
Sport | 20 |
|
||
Ta mig till havet
|
380
5+
|
Sport | 20 | |||
Ska ni joppa
|
550
6b+
|
Sport | 24 |
|
||
Ormbunken
|
550
6b+
|
Sport | 18 | |||
Snatch
|
1000
8a
|
Sport | 0 | |||
Tintin
|
950
7c+
|
Sport | 16 | |||
Kattöga
|
850
7b+
|
Sport | 14 | |||
Tintin Direkt
|
950
7c+
|
Sport | 20 | |||
Fasta former
|
800
7b
|
Sport | 46 | |||
Baggen
|
750
7a+
|
Sport | 48 | |||
Ada
|
450
6a+
|
Sport | 39 |
|
||
Sjöjungfrun
|
400
6a
|
Sport | 41 | |||
Salt Sill
|
900
7c
|
Sport | 23 | |||
Finnkampen
|
800
7b
|
Sport | 6 | |||
Ålen
|
700
7a
|
Sport | 21 | |||
Kvinnofällan
|
900
7c
|
Sport | 2 |
|
||
Runda former
|
450
6a+
|
Sport | 84 | |||
Milou
|
900
7c
|
Sport | 6 | |||
Matrix
|
950
7c+
|
Sport | 3 |
|
||
Lutande sprickan
|
800
7b
|
Sport | 5 |
|
||
Medvind
|
800
7b
|
Sport | 0 | |||
Badkrukan
|
800
7b
|
Sport | 2 | |||
Musslan
|
650
6c+
|
Sport | 2 | |||
Solo
|
400
6a
|
Sport | 23 |
|
||
Törnrosa
|
1000
8a
|
Sport | 3 | |||
Draget
|
850
7b+
|
Sport | 10 |
|
||
Rock Johan
|
800
7b
|
Sport | 3 |
|
||
Stortorsk
|
950
7c+
|
Sport | 2 | |||
Högra leden
|
450
6a+
|
Sport | 2 | |||
Fimpa nu
|
850
7b+
|
Sport | 0 | |||
Motvind
|
800
7b
|
Sport | 2 |
|
||
Solstorm
|
400
6a
|
Sport | 82 |
|
||
Havstörst
|
380
5+
|
Sport | 52 | |||
Hälsa hem
|
850
7b+
|
Sport | 14 |
|
||
Blå Lotus
|
550
6b+
|
Sport | 56 |
|
||
Resan till Ulliga bergen
|
450
6a+
|
Sport | 16 |
|
||
Blixt och dunder
|
300
5
|
Sport | 35 | |||
Hälsa hem direkt
|
950
7c+
|
Sport | 0 | |||
Attityd
|
1050
8a+
|
Sport | 1 | |||
Salt Sill direkt (linkup)
|
1050
8a+
|
Sport | 0 | |||
Asko
|
850
7b+
|
Sport | 5 |
|
||
Silly Attitude (linkup)
|
900
7c
|
Sport | 12 | |||
Guerilla gardener
|
500
6b
|
Sport | 4 |
|
||
Gå På Cirkus
|
850
7b+
|
Sport | 5 |
|
||
Metaforisk gratislunch
|
650
6c+
|
Sport | 3 |
|
||
Akta dig för spindeln
|
900
7c
|
Sport | 2 |
|
||
Ljungens lag
|
300
5
|
Traditional | 0 | |||
De som tog och log
|
275
4+
|
Traditional | 1 | |||
Svajmast
|
380
5+
|
Partially bolted | 1 | |||
Kraken
|
1000
8a
|
Sport | 0 | |||
Percy Traversy
|
400
6a
|
Boulder | 1 | |||
20,000 Gifflar For Me
|
250
4+
|
DWS | 2 | |||
Panpan vs. The Chaos Muffin
|
350
5+
|
DWS | 1 | |||
A Backflip a Day Keeps the Doctor Away
|
350
5+
|
DWS | 1 | |||
Hjalmar Hjalmarson
|
300
5
|
DWS | 1 | |||
Matrix direkt
|
950
7c+
|
Sport | 1 | |||
Korpturen
|
400
6a
|
Traditional | 2 |
|
||
Finnkatt
|
900
7c
|
Sport | 1 | |||
Kattkampen
|
700
7a
|
Sport | 1 | |||
Bläckfisken
|
650
6c+
|
Sport | 1 | |||
No more Mr nice guy
|
400
6a
|
Traditional | 0 | |||
Meet Dr Nasty
|
350
5+
|
Traditional | 0 |
The area is access sensitive!
It is not allowed to park anywhere on the road at the intersection Lillängdalsvägen / Dundervägen except for three car spaces next to the electric house. If these three spaces are occupied, YOU MUST drive 4 km back to the first parking space. It is ABSOLUTELY FORBIDDEN to park ANYWHERE ELSE at the intersection. The road association is very angry with us at the moment and we climbers must handle this in a good way now!
Directions to Sjöväggen:
Drive Värmdöleden (222) towards Gustavsberg. Turn off towards Ingarö (646). After 2 km you pass a bridge, turn right immediately after the bridge and follow Lillängsdalsvägen for about 4 km. Park at the intersection Lillängdalsvägen / Dundervägen next to an electric house. Please note that there is only room for 3 cars here. If it is full, you MUST go back 4 km and park at the parking lot at Bergviksvägen. Then follow Dundervägen to its end. The path that takes at divides immediately, take left. The path immediately divides again, take left again. After about 100 meters follow the path to the right (from here there are green dots leading all the way down to Sjöklippan). After 200 m the path divides, turn left. After 50 m you start to approach the water and the rocks. Continue another 30-50 m along the path. Turn to left towards the water via a sloping slope and "open street" in the terrain (there is usually a small cairn (röse) to the right of the path that indicates where to turn towards the water). If you depart too early from the path, you will end up among cabins by the water. it's absolutely forbidden to go this way or along the coast to the crag. If you go wrong, back away, it has turned out that there are very aggressive homeowners here. Through different "floors", you will reach down to the water. At one passage keep right near the wall to avoid sliding down into the loose gravel, at another passage you hold a narrow tree and make an easier down climb (2 meters). The cliff is 50 m to the right when you have reached all the way down to the water.
Directions to Högklint:
Same as for Sjöväggen but continue straight ahead along the trail where you turn left towards the water when you go to Sjöväggen. Continue the path about 200 meters and turn left immediately after a telephone line.
To get to "Balkongen" you can continue the path a few meters to a fireplace and from there move down to the water. Balkongen can also be reached from the main wall via a sling/bolt at the far left of the main wall.
Lilla grottan is located just 40 meters south from the main wall. Just before you arrive at Högklint the path divides and you walk left up the hill and then follow the cliff edge leftwards until you relatively easily can climb down. When you have climbed down the little nice "cave" is just a few meters to the right.
To reach the Svaväggen DWS, take the same approach as to Lilla Grottan, but follow the waterline south to Svaväggen where you can reach the start of the DWS routes dry by walking over a rocky 'beach'.