Mikko Wuokko

Crimpy

Finding the right beta is the key

4+ when not using hands. With hands less than 3.

The good hold for start could be difficult to reach for shorter person when sitting

Using all the holds not harder than 4

Nice, but nowhere near 6C+. Even the 6B is a bit of a stretch with correct beta. Some other place this could be even a 6A.

Tuntui enemmän 4+ suhteessa kallion muihin reitteihin. Yleisesti toi 5 ois varmaan kohillaan.

Takes just enough gear

Cleaned and climbed the corner crack few meters left of Talviaika on the upper part. First ascend was done as trad from the ground, but first half can be climbed on bolts. No separate anchor on top.

This is a sport route

Not 3 in any condition. Would say 4+ is quite accurate taking into some difficult in protection (in parts) and comparing to other trad climbs in Finland.

Dare to say this is more like a 5 or very hard 4+ if someone would brush all the moss off. Was quite wet, but even completely dry it would be quite strenuous crux.

Excellent route

Pantannut onsight yritystä ja ehkä kannatti :)

Ekaa kertaa liidiyritys kun nyt oli pari isompaa kamua enemmän saatavilla. "Mukavaa" offarihinkkausta.

Putsasin vähän reittiä isoimmista roskista ja mullasta. Ei millään kyllä vitonen aikakaan kallion muihin greideihin. Ennemmin 4 tai ehkä 4+ kun alussa on pari napakampaa moovia.

Yläankkuria varten saa tepastella jonkun matkaa männylle ylempänä. Reitin topissa olevat puut lahoilevat kosketuksesta.

Climbed at some point onsight but don't remember when. It started raining halfway up the route :)

Climbed onsight some time ago but don't remember when

Didn't feel like 4 even when using all the obvious holds along the line

Don't know really how the line should go. Strictly following the line drawn does not really make sense. Climbing slightly to the right of it there is a clear line with proper protection where you need it. Also there could be another clear line left of this, between this and Moovipeikko.

Definitely not a 4. More closer to 5. Placing gear is also a bit awkward.

Upper half in increasing rain which made things rather "interesting".

Didn't understand the bolts either. There is good gear at the back. Unlike the parts below the bolts where you do get gear, but it's not so obvious.

Definitely need more jamming practice

Aikamoista könyämistä. Kovin raamikkaan ei kande mennä sisäkautta.

Climbed traversing on top of the shelf the beginning. Pretty scary stuff and at least version seemed pretty hard. The crack was a bit wet. The direct start more wet.

Aika napakka alku neloseksi

Difficult until got the sequence right. Would draw the line a bit more to the right

Climbed the top on the left around the funny triangle block which felt pretty hard. Especially the footholds on the rights seemed too close to the adjacent route. Either way a nice route.

There is a solid gear not too far off the ground. I found around the first "hole" most difficult to protect. Then just ran it out :)

A bit awkward moves to the anchor (on the right).

Used the left arete in the beginning. Would be much harder without, I believe.

The topout is rather unpleasant. Loose moss and loose block of rock under the moss. Before that the route was nice :)

Hienommat otteet löytyy alkupäässa oikealta puolelta. Vasemmaltakin voisi mennä läheltä hihhulia, mutta varmaan olisi helpompaa. Lopussa vielä hauska "loppukruxi" :)

Hintsumpia mooveja alussa

Melko märkä oli vielä. Teki jännemmäksi.

Maybe a bit easy for a 5+

Not that difficult after you figure out which hold to use :)

Top is quite mossy currently

Could be also 3+

Used the most obvious holds: two crimps on the left, better hold on the right and the big topout jug.

Aikaisemmin kiivennyt joskus. Ei meinannu kyllä kamojen paikat löytyä taaskaan. Jälkeenpäin näin että kyllä sinne näköjään saa sitä pientä kamua menemään ihan nätisti.

The topout was surprisingly difficult

Felt easier than the regular Yksiö

Very nice indeed. The top anchor (on top of the right hand face) is not very convenient and the person making the "first/second" ascend recommended to go up the face next to kiilahalkeama instead of going right and up to the actual anchor. Apparently they were not allowed to put the anchor right of Kiilahalkeama anchor. Top roping is maybe best done using the kiilahalkeama anchor and the three to the right and perhaps put a pro high on the crack.

Used the foothold near the ground. Without that would be a lot harder, couldn't even do the big move without it.

Felt a bit easy to be a 6a, though the topout was a bit of a crawl.

Took few tries to figure out the sequence. Then eventually just did a big move to the top from the middle holds. Definitely harder than 4.

Easy even with the "big topout platform". Used the good foot hold on the left, which would be odd to be eliminated. Without the horizontal crack would be a whole lot harder.

4+ if you topout straight up and avoid the better holds on the left

Basically two balancy high steps/mantels to the top

Definitely not a 5

Pretty much straight up. Tried to avoid the holds around the corner.

The grade probably depends on how much you use the holds on the left

Wonder, if you should use the good holds near ground on right for start or not? If used, maybe a little easier and less laybacking.

Brushed a little, but could need some more. Few small sketchy gear could be placed. Would be better as a sport route though. Probably even pretty nice.

Solo. I kind of liked the round scoops. The first few moves could make it 4.

Eases out when you figure out the moves. Duh.

The topout is a bit desperate

Probably way more easier now as it has been cleaned or then there must be some eliminates on this.

Easier than Velli

The start is harder than topout I think. Especially if you go straight up and don't use the holds on right eg. the sloping under.

Challenging, but good gritty and scary jamming. Quite mossy now. Definitely harder than the Finnish 4.

Balancy, tricky moves above the bolts :) The start was technically the hardest, but the climbing above was more mentally challenging.

Nice and airy. Look more scarier than eventually is.

Just managed to do the moves as the crack and the top part was completely wet.

Easy 5

Nice route. The long traverse has just the right amount of scariness.

Slipped a foot on the first try :)

The first moves felt a bit hard, or I just didn't figure out the right ones

Maybe a tad harder if you do not climb it like offwidth

Would need a little brush. Now it might at least feel a bit more challenging than 4.

No anchor on top. Basically only way to clean gear is to belay from the other side of the block while other person is seconding the route then down climb the main cliff side.

A bit scary moves :)

Way easier than "Pieniä askelia"

Anyone climbed this before?

Can comp the previous comment that the grade is way harder if climbed ONLY on the face, then more like 6C or harder. I climbed on to the ledge on the left and then moved to the face at the first bolt.

People have definitely climbed this before, just by looking the chalk marks. A fun little route still.

Nice offwidth/chimney climb

A bit difficult to figure how this line really goes. Used the hold which seemed to reflect the given grade 5.

A bit scary with the quite spaced gear

Pretty run out start

Viimeks ei menny alotusmuuvit. Nyt meni. Ens kerralla liidaten.

Nyt tuli topattua oikeasta kohtaa

First ascend?

First ascend?

The 5+ version, could get the "crack only" done