Mikko Wuokko

Takes just enough gear

This is a sport route

Not 3 in any condition. Would say 4+ is quite accurate taking into some difficult in protection (in parts) and comparing to other trad climbs in Finland.

Dare to say this is more like a 5 or very hard 4+ if someone would brush all the moss off. Was quite wet, but even completely dry it would be quite strenuous crux.

Excellent route

Pantannut onsight yritystä ja ehkä kannatti :)

Ekaa kertaa liidiyritys kun nyt oli pari isompaa kamua enemmän saatavilla. "Mukavaa" offarihinkkausta.

Putsasin vähän reittiä isoimmista roskista ja mullasta. Ei millään kyllä vitonen aikakaan kallion muihin greideihin. Ennemmin 4 tai ehkä 4+ kun alussa on pari napakampaa moovia.

Yläankkuria varten saa tepastella jonkun matkaa männylle ylempänä. Reitin topissa olevat puut lahoilevat kosketuksesta.

Climbed at some point onsight but don't remember when. It started raining halfway up the route :)

Climbed onsight some time ago but don't remember when

Don't know really how the line should go. Strictly following the line drawn does not really make sense. Climbing slightly to the right of it there is a clear line with proper protection where you need it. Also there could be another clear line left of this, between this and Moovipeikko.

Definitely not a 4. More closer to 5. Placing gear is also a bit awkward.

Upper half in increasing rain which made things rather "interesting".

Didn't understand the bolts either. There is good gear at the back. Unlike the parts below the bolts where you do get gear, but it's not so obvious.

Definitely need more jamming practice

Aikamoista könyämistä. Kovin raamikkaan ei kande mennä sisäkautta.

Climbed traversing on top of the shelf the beginning. Pretty scary stuff and at least version seemed pretty hard. The crack was a bit wet. The direct start more wet.

Aika napakka alku neloseksi

There is a solid gear not too far off the ground. I found around the first "hole" most difficult to protect. Then just ran it out :)

A bit awkward moves to the anchor (on the right).

Aikaisemmin kiivennyt joskus. Ei meinannu kyllä kamojen paikat löytyä taaskaan. Jälkeenpäin näin että kyllä sinne näköjään saa sitä pientä kamua menemään ihan nätisti.

Very nice indeed. The top anchor (on top of the right hand face) is not very convenient and the person making the "first/second" ascend recommended to go up the face next to kiilahalkeama instead of going right and up to the actual anchor. Apparently they were not allowed to put the anchor right of Kiilahalkeama anchor. Top roping is maybe best done using the kiilahalkeama anchor and the three to the right and perhaps put a pro high on the crack.

Brushed a little, but could need some more. Few small sketchy gear could be placed. Would be better as a sport route though. Probably even pretty nice.

Solo. I kind of liked the round scoops. The first few moves could make it 4.

Challenging, but good gritty and scary jamming. Quite mossy now. Definitely harder than the Finnish 4.

Easy 5

Anyone climbed this before?

Pretty run out start

Nyt tuli topattua oikeasta kohtaa