Christian Fredh

Found a new hold today, which made quite a difference.

Sven did it top rope after.

Samuel almost had it after a couple of attempts but the top was tricky. Sven did it top rope.

Samuel as belay. Samuel and Sven top roped easily after.

Few session later. Went from a wrestling game to trying to move efficient between the rests. Knee bar+pad before the top.

Funky clip, 3rd go.

Bolts.

2nd go. Left-ish.

Shaky clipping in the crux but it worked out. 3rd attempt.

Bolts.

2nd go.

3rd go. Very nice route, with a rest in the middle.

2nd go. Climbed on the right, then tricky end.

Couldn't figure out the crux at first but a few tries later I found the crimps. Also the kneebar.

2nd go.

2nd go.

2nd go.

Broken finger. Wet 2 attempts yesterday. Bit better today. 2nd attempt today.

Wet. Had to clip stick first bolt.

Lead rope solo.

Free solo.

Free solo.

Nice crimpy start, cool dyno and a mantel. Maybe not the best warmup. 2nd go.

Took me 3ish sessions but felt solid in the end. Efficient start. Then high right foot, back flag, left hand to the left. High right feet and then bump a lot.

Felt hard for the grade.

Great route with nice sequence in the crux. Tried it last time a couple of times. Second go today.

2nd go.

Finally..

Done with the new bolts.

3rd go. Kylskåp. Drop the left foot and find ledge to bump right hand to the bad crimp in the start. 2 bolts pre-clipped.

3rd go. Use Ohm if you are heavier than your belayer. Had a foot slip at the anchor which got scary.

3rd go. Reachy, but quite okay after a couple of attempts.

Säla!

No arete.

A bit mossy in the end but quite okay otherwise.

Fun route! Onsight except the tick marks.

Nice slab start and then nice moves in the end. Onsight except a couple of tick marks in the end.

Super sweet sequences! 2nd go today. Tried once or twice last session. Keep left at the top.

Nice new addition to the crag! 6c is an appropriate grade I think. 3rd go.

Spent a few attempts last session. This session it went down on the warmup attempt knowing the feet and heel hook to the right.

Very delicate beta. Right gaston, left, match right, out to the left, up with right foot, left hand to gaston, and jump.

Bit tricky first go. 2nd go. Used bolts and qds.

Very cool traverse!

Bit tricky following the bolt line completly. Took a couple of attempts.

1st go but done upper part before.

2nd go. Juggy. From the ground and not the rock. Pulled a hold from the start but doable anyway.

Appropriate name. Nice and quite tricky section before the anchor.

You know it's a new route when the only tick marks are the ones for where to put the bolts. Cool route with a roof. Went up and a bit right thought he roof.

Enjoyable new route!

2nd go.

2nd go.

2nd go.

First pitch.

Very nice route. Many rests but pumpier in the end than expected. 2nd go.

The left one (says "Terror bajo el culo" under but that I think is the one on the right). The one directly right of "Ceguera temporal". 2nd go.

Climbed only to the first anchor. 6b in the book.

2nd go. Nice route. "15. Por ahi van los tiros" in the book.

Went to hold, but ut wasn't a hold. Bit tricky when wet. 2/3rd go.

Great route with sweet sequences! Almost pumped out the move before the rest, but somehow got through it. 3 sessions, 7th go in total. 7b+/7c.

Delicate slab. Felt hard first go but quite good the following attempt. 2nd go.

Brush as you climb.

Nice little route. 2nd go.

Super route with delicate sequences which suited me well. Flash except I've done the lower part before when trying Puls.

2nd go. Had to brush one hold from moss on the right in the start. Followed bolt line and used arete for left hand and a couple of times right hand as well.

2nd go. To the roof.

2nd go.

I felt a bit rusty, oh wait, that was the bolts... Took a couple of attempts, but could be because I didn't want to fall on those bolts. Fun little one otherwise.

Start right side holds, then straight from the second bolt. Tried once last year, today it went first go.

No crossed loose hold. With "extension" to the jug one meter above the anchor.

3rd go. Even fell once before the first bolt. Nice with spotter.

Left edge and then go for the jug. 2nd go.

A bit tricky and a bit crimpy. Took a couple of tries to get the start, and then checking out the second part.

Nice line, and crimps! Not sure my pull hard beta was the prettiest on the top part but it went down at least. 3rd go.

Done Mr. Big previously.

Pretty nice, went to second anchor. Got surprisingly pumped.

Bit tricky on the face but went fine second go.

2nd go. Found a nice foot sequence for the crux which worked great. Still pumped when I got there and a big move with left hand up to pinch. Barely stuck it. Didn't use big hold to the right.

Nice route with delicate foot sequence in the top. Also, good to reach stuff. 2nd go today. Tried it a few times before.

Second go. Soft.

Have sent it before but to the anchor. Tried it solo lead the day before, but chickened out on the top slab. But with proper belay it was a lot more comfortable. Airy!

Fun little one. Bit soft for the grade maybe. 3rd go, but felt like it should have gone down on 2nd.

Tricky and short. Crossed to left side pull, crimp crimp, ledge. 2nd go.

Cool route. 2nd go.

Tricky and fun. But where is the anchor? Had to climb down a bit again and go to the anchor to the right. 3rd go.

Nice route with cool crux which needed some detailed beta. Third session, although tried it last year. Imperiet ending. No kneebar used.

A masterpiece!

Hard crux move. Good feet and some power dynamic move. Found static moves up to crux start, with left foot jammed high up, right hand to semi good hold, left hand to undercling in the middle and then left hand to jug. 3rd go today. Also 5 tries last session on it.

Nice few meters of climbing. Done after Verklighet (which was one of my first 6c and felt really nice repeating and felt easy now).

Nice and delicate. Crux need some love to figure out. Left hand to the crimp on the right, lower part to make room for right hand on the good upper part. Right foot. Left foot on small ledge, but leave room for right foot. Pinch, and left foot out far to the left. Then left hand to the sloper and then find the pocket. Match, then to the good hold. The rest is not easy but when figured out it's just resting in between and try to remember where all the holds are. 2nd go today. 2 tries two days ago. Also tried it once last year.

Cool move and then easier to the top. Used the good corner hold today to reach the crimp but still managed to cut loose when matching. Stuck it luckily. 2nd go today. 4 in total.

Bit tricky the start half, then easy. Done Pokemon Go and Sjukskriven before, both first go as well.

Hard finish. Desperate move to sloper and finding the finger slot. Lucky there are good rests before the last part. Second try today, but tried it a couple of times late last year as well.

Two cruxes, yes, very true. Went on second go when I had all the beta. Good route!

Easy, then hard in the end. Went to some sloper on the left-ish and then slopers to right and clip anchor. Weird line.

Good route!

Brush as you go. Confused where to top out, went out right, to a bolt and tree to rappel down.

Done after Lätta.

Hard start. And confused it first time with the one to the left. 3rd go.

First lead 6a trad sent. Took a fall on it by the roof yesterday and got very scared so was very mentally challanging today and took a long time. One pre-placed nut was there at the roof. Did a follow on it yesterday also after the fall. Thanks for the patience Costin!

First day this week it started raining when I tried to lead it in the middle of the route so had come down. Followed this time.

Wet. Kept to the right. 2nd go.

Nice short one! Dynamic move. 2nd go.

Great climbing all the way!

2nd go. Tricky!

Went down first go today, which felt good. Tried once last year and a couple of times two years ago.

2nd go today. Tried one time a year ago. Hard for the grade.

2nd go. Aslo did light version before.

2nd go.

2nd go. Really nice climb, similar to Diana, but a bit harder.

No chalk on the holds, luckily I had beta master Costin with me.

Been trying the normal Kryssa route four sessions now. This version went down on third go today, figuring out more and more detailed beta for each attempt. Used crack in the start.

Felt super hard on the first go, so it went down surprisingly fast. 3rd go. Found the thumb for the pinch which helped a lot. Left hand crimp, right hand first hold after the ledge, foot up, pull sideways onto the foot. Then with right hand pinch and then good crimp.

A bit tricky slab in a couple of places.

2nd go. Tricky, but okay when you find the holds. Sport.

2nd go. Tried using the power beta first time. Then I found the good holds.

2 pitons, 2 quick draws and a small cam in the top.

Felt very doable from the first go, but very wet holds this day, so took 4 goes I think. Had to chalk and brush the lists and two crimps, then hurry down and climb fast.

Easier if you skip the good hold on the right. Short but nice.

Went left first go which I couldn't recover from. Second go straight up and that went better. Hard start.

Just used the first piton with an alpine draw, the rest was bolts.

Used the 2 pitons, one with alpine draw, one with quick draw. Couple of cams and a nut.

Left anchor.

Such a nice route! Suits be very well and thankful to get some beta to get started with all the moves which felt good from the start. Tall beta. Had to adjust a bit in the end after first burn. Hand down to crimp, then match with foot. In the end, crimp, match, foot, then side pull on then right to reach two-finger crimp with the left, pull. 3rd go (2nd burn).

This route has everything, monos, crimps, underclings, slopers, manteling. Tried once last year and some time before that as well. Today, it went with no major issues, but didn't remember anything.

4rd go today. Quite close to flash it but end section was tricky and too many options. Took a couple of more attempts and the send was a fight in the end section.

3rd go today. 2 tries last session. We found a tiny crimp for the left hand in the crux which helped a lot. Also, with right hand use the inner grip with the thumb was important.

2nd go. Heel hook clip. Crimp, crimp, long move, undercling thing.

2nd go. Went left in the end. Pulled off a crimp on the right version when trying it after, might be doable anyway but harder.

Lead rope solo. Messed up the start a couple of times. Start with high feet was good.

Lead rope solo. Used 3 nuts and 1 cam on good placements.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo. Started with Irrbloss.

Really cool climbing and moves on upper section. Used the crimp, low left leg, left hand to side-pull. Small foot hold to the right instead of the slippery surface. 4th go. First 7b that went down in one session I think.

Free solo.

Free solo. Only the crack. Little scary.

Free solo.

Free solo.

Free solo.

2 tries yesterday, went on 2nd go today. Tape helps.

One try yesterday, went on first go today.

3rd go.

Lead rope solo.

Free solo. Wet and many leaves.

Also very cool route! ~5th go. Found beta that worked in the end.

Nice route! 2nd go. Great beta dudes!

Nice crimps! Okay even when wet. Second go.

Unfriendly third clip when wet. Could use another bolt. Difficult top part when wet so had to work out a better beta. 3rd go or something.

Wet but went alright. Had to clean it a bit during onsight.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo. 3rd go - commitment issues.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo.

Lead rope solo.

2nd go after failing catching the top on first go. Bit wet on the top, but okay on an otherwise wet crag.

2nd go. Bit wet on the top, but okay on an otherwise wet crag.

Left variant which felt natural. Guess right variant is possible too.

Tried it once last year. Felt good on the first try today, but got beta wrong after that and did mistakes so took longer than expected. Tired, but went finally down on 6th go today.

6th go (3rd burn) over 3 sessions. Felt really solid today, with the beta and good conditions. Good rests, even a no hands today.

2nd go. Desperate climbing.

3rd go. Went left in the end with the amazing knee bar. Nice route!

2nd go. Freakishly hard the first couple of tries.

Tiny beta shouted to me. Nice little route.

3rd go. 2 tries last time here, went down first go today. First qd pre-clipped, rest put up during climb.

2nd go. Tried it one time before. Sent it first go today, with qds and all, felt much easier this time and really nice!

I think 3rd go in total. 2 tries on previous session. Remembered the beta well and found some great rests. Was warmed up and rested so it went pretty easily today.

Trying my new trad gear.

2nd go.

3 goes last session and was close then but got the feet sorted out at least. Send on 2nd go this session after finding a little thumb on the first go which made it a little bit less heavy.

Tried it in the spring first time, but then it was wet. 4th go over 3 sessions in total I think. Although have done Titta vi flyger before so first part was fine. 2nd go for the day after warm up on it and setting up the qds. Tricky krux but quite alright when beta dialed and properly warmed up.

Day-flash with setting up the draws and all. A bit surprised since I tried it five times on one session earlier this year, I was close then but it was too pumpy and didn't manage to stick the krux moves. Also tried it last year once with a few rests.

First attempt on this variant. Went second on this route, and have on-sighted the left version before.

Got the basic moves done pretty okay early and felt doable after the first go. Delicate crux that needed a lot of refinement. In my forth session on it in the forth go it went down. 11th go in total. Felt quite a bit easier than Siddharta. My second 7c!

Done Dubbeldäckare before, but wanted to do this variant as well. Climbed it from the ground. Lot of rope drag.

Senile on-sight. Still not trivial but kinda easy. Wrote this is 2016 then I last tried it: "Tried it twice. Got up both times with rests. Moves are doable but heavy."

Took me a few tries to do this one cleanly. Sent by going far right and to first anchor before but that wasn't the line. Today I went on the line and also went though to the second anchor which is a bit tricky as well.

Today it wasn't that hard. Had some issues in the end last couple of tries but found rest everywhere today so it was fine.

4th go in total, tried it twice last time here also. A struggle was to keep it apart from Konsum, almost felt that I went to far right, but think it's correct line. Not a good warmup. Sent it in the end at 22 o'clock and it was very dark. Solero as the start.

Started from the stone pillar.

6th go over 4 sessions. Had all the beta dialed and was quite fresh today, so went down first try today without much trouble.

My summer project done and goal achieved. Many sessions and attempts later. Guessing 20+ goes over 10 sessions. It was a real process, getting higher and higher, better and better beta, finding more and better rests. Even found a little knee bar today that gave a little bit back, with the use-pants-beta. All the moves were dialed in, pretty fresh, good conditions in the morning. And it finally went down! My first 7c!

3rd go. Accidentally warmed up on it last time. Second go today. Was a bit of a struggle but it went.

1st go. Onsighted Pokemon Go the other day, so that makes this a flash (?).

I think 8th go in total. Felt fine after adjusting the beta a bit.

2nd go today. Tried to remember the moves on Panta rei. The alternative top makes no difference basically.

2nd go.

Wanted to make use of my 80m rope so did as an extension to Grodan boll. The krux was getting to the start of the route. Nice view from the top.

Sent Grodan boll orginal a few weeks ago. Came back to tick this one and got it one the first go. Tried it once before in 2016, with note "Top roped, tried lead."

Did it from both Hugo and Den breve Hugo.

2nd go. Did the extension as well.

Did the extension as well.

Came back after two months or so since i tried it the first time. Close last time. But barely managed to send it last attempt of today. Used new beta for start and the dynamic move.

5th-ish go.

2nd go.

After a couple of tries getting lost going on the route on the left, I finally found the way and properly sent it.

Too tired last session, but today felt better. My 6th-ish go. First draw pre-clipped.

3rd go today. I think 6th go in total, in 3 sessions. First quickdraw pre-clipped. Followed the line, so I guess no taboo. My second 7b!

2nd go.

Tricky to find a working beta. 3rd go and a couple of rope burns later.

Did the 6a to the right last year.

Really nice route! Third go today. Had a go on it a few days ago. And also one go in spring last year (when moves where individually doable but needed work and a few rests, so feels good to come back and send it much easier).

4th go. Skipped first draw, and the one straight after roof. Felt hard at first but luckely went down the same session. Found some good feet and rest.

Have tried the left version a couple of years ago. But now I felt it would suit me quite well, so today I tried this version instead. And after figuring out some feet och holds on the first go, it went down on the second attempt. So happy!

Tried it one time in 2019. Several rests then but got to the top. Had 3 tries a couple of weeks a couple ago and got pretty close. But on my second go today I sent it. Felt solid, except for the top move where the pump was strong. But it went down. Awesome feeling!

Sent the 6a part last week, but today managed this part as well.

Tried it first time 2017 I think. Today after a couple of tried it went down. Pumped in the end because FDD previously.

From the first time I tried it it felt doable and moves felt quite okay. After around 10 tries in 4 sessions it went down. And when I did it, it strangely didn't feel very hard, not very pumpy, and the rests felt good. Guess good conditions, 2nd go after warm up and the beta dialed down made it possible. Did it from the ground and climbed over the anchor after clipping it to over the top so it's Super Freaky included in this send then I guess. Did not use the loose rock with cross on it. My first 7B! Feels great!

Added this route to my todo list 2016 so I guess I tried it then, which makes this a redpoint. Don't remember anything though. I went on the right at the start at the name printed on the rock. Not sure if that was the line, looked harder than on the left. Also tried the 6c end, but no send on that one today.

2nd attempt.

Nice route. Not very hard. Straight up (not go around to the right beta).

A bit sketchy start so jumped down once without weight on the rope. Putting as red point.

2nd attempt today. 1 try last year. Once warmed up and when I knew the moves, it felt really nice! My 2nd 7a.

High first clip. Did that clip with right arm around the corner.

Done after Fis i vinden.

Drop knee.

After trying it a couple of days before (with 2 hangs) I remembered the beta and sent it first go this day. A mantle thingy and a hard to see left foot did the trick.

Scary start. Kinda on-sight, but not quite.

4th try.

Book says 5+.

"The route of commitment." Got some beta from the ground in the beginning of the route, so flash.

In the guide book this crag is called Tamadaya. This route is in the sector Apapart Right. Route is called Fisurini. Grade in book is 6b+. Nice route.

Really nice route. Went up right before crossing over, which was the correct route according to local guide. Would be much harder crossing over early.

Sketchy with some loose rocks, not recommended.

Ok route. Also onsighted Los robadores 6a+ which is not on 27crags. It's to the right of Papeo chungo.

2nd try, harder than I thought at the top. But with my normal shoes, it was fine. Also Onsighted a no name route grade 5 to the right which is not on 27crags. 128 in the guide book. Scetchy with loose rocks so not recommended.

Sent it on my second attempt. Although, did Verklighet two years ago or something.

First bolt very high up and tuff start. Harder than Trädet. The comments about lost start holds and first bolt made me understand why.

No tree here, but still.

Nice route. Happy with the on-sight.

Nice little route and ending. Sent it on my second attempt.

Good warmup. I when straight up in the start. Guess there is an easier way though.

Nice! Led it after Arvid. Climb it directly after Runda former, which was a flash, so I guess this was a flash as well.

Great route! Led it after Arvid.

Led it after Arvid.

Not much harder than Resan till Ulliga bergen. Led it after Arvid. Climb it directly after Resan till Ulliga bergen, which was a flash, so I guess this was a flash as well.

First route of the day. Led it after Arvid.

My first 7a on lead! Been in Nacka kvarn many times now, and after being close a few times now, on like my 20th-ish try I finally send it. And funny thing was, that it felt relatively easy this time. One time I even fell into the tree. Thanks Mattias for keeping me safe!

Quite easy this time. Failed at the end last time I was there.