Routes on Östnoraberget

50 sport 27 trad

We like Östnoraberget

En del kanonfina leder, och en del ruttna. Mysig, men lite slyig, miljö vid klippan.
Favorite in the Stockholm area (together with Noret). Right by the ocean and decent amounts of routes, although quite difficult. Few sports routes at low 6. Best at the beginning of the season, later on quite bushy. Crag facing south/south west. Sunny.

Activities on this crag


The area is access sensitive!

You have to stop climbing before it gets dark and it is not allowed to climb after dusk due to hunting that takes place in the evening all year round.

The wall at the far right, to the right of the wall with the fallen tree, is on private land and there is a house just above the hill. Do not climb here! The routes/bolts have been removed.

Go past the small private road, and continue down to the car park 400 meters further on. Do not park inside on the private road to the barrier (where sporadic parking has occurred), or at the wall branch (väggrenen) that has previously been okay, or at the barn. Only park at the large parking another 400 meters down by the road leading towards the camping area.

Take Nynäsvägen (road 73) south from Stockholm. About a 10 km past Västerhaninge; turn off towards Söderby brygga (signposted). Turn left over the motorway and then the first right (signposted Landfjärden). Follow the road 1.4 km and turn left towards Östnora. After about 700 m, a single private road enters to the right. Follow it (on foot) for 300 m and take the right road. After another 500 meter the road ends at some boathouses. Behind these begins the French wall. The car park is about 400 meters further down the main road from where the private road begins.

Public transport:
Commuter train to Västerhaninge. At Västerhaninge station, change to bus 847 towards Ösmo center. Get off at Östnora. Walk 1.5 km to the crag.