Pasi Sjöman

Yeah! Tämä reitti on jyskyttänyt takaraivossa siitä asti kun ensimmäistä kertaa Mustavuorella kävin. Omissa kirjoissani kuuluu Suomen Top 3 sporttireitteihin. Pitkään tuntui epätoivoiselta, mutta tufakiipeily on näköjään hionut tekniikkaa sen verran, että 4 kneebaria tähänkin reittiin sai mahdutettua, siihen lisänä vielä Jonin löytämä hyvä käsijammi kruxisekvenssiin, niin paketti oli valmis. Edellämainittu huomioiden olen todennäköisesti kiivennyt hieman “eri reitin” kuin ensinousija, joten en näe miten pystyisin säilyttämään sekä yöuneni että 8b tikin.

Nice moves on not so nice rock

So close to other routes that its not an individual line, but climbing is nice.

Shorter than the guidbook says. Nice powerful climbing.

Kneebarfiesta!!

Best beta from Anna 👌🏽 Such a cool line, Jurassic quality!

In the guidebook: Don´t mess with the tufas, 7c. Which seems about right. Powerful mid section.

Wow! Just amazing. Overhang, roof, pockets, tufas and kneebars with a good flow.🤩

There are a few decision points where you can follow the intuition of the easiest path with some pleasant moves & big holds or choose to climb on the bolt line with some harder moves including a HC crimp crux. For the straight bolt line, I think 8a+ is not enough unless Im missing something. I chose the mellower holiday line, for which I think the + is a bit too much… All in all a great line and a day to remember.

I think the lower part has also been rebolted or bolts have been added. Didnt see the runouts... It seems that the anchor has also been lowered as there is a 3rd one few meters above anchor no.2. That part adds few a bit harder moves. Im assuming the older 7b suggestions come from that...?

Pleasant cruising

1st go

Dont know where the 3*** on the guidebook come from 😅 2/3 of pointless scrambling and then few nice moves.

1st

Felt hard somehow

4m of actual climbing

Pleasure climbing after slightly unpleasant crimp crux

1st go but I´ve climbed the first part many times. Excellente!

Not an individual line, but adds few nice traversing moves to Mura Mura and Nihil inerit.

Very nice! Harder than Omnia mutantur nih.... With 3 pre-clips.

Wuhuu 🥳🥳🥳 This was hard for me. First part is easy intro for the real business, a boulder followed by some top quality endurance fiesta!

Very nice Kaly style overhang, the + is too much however...

Too hot in May, had to save it for better temps to be enjoyed

Some nice technicalities at the anchor 😀

The first 3rd feels a bit artificially squeezed as the logical line goes in the easy terrain. but after it separates from the scrambling its very nice. About the same difficulty as the other 7c´s at the crag.

Amazing jughauling

Good weather helps a lot. Techy feet climbing in the mid part and then some nice pocket pulling to a final heartbreaker.

Messed up the beta on onsight so could be easier

Nice, and fortunately no dynos needed 😀

Amazing kneebarfeast and roof climbing

Sweet! What a puzzle, so many kneebars in a short route 🤩

On tämä nyt ainakin 7b+ 😂 Napakan perusmättöalun jälkeen hienoja, ei niin perusmuuveja.

Käsimuuvit feissin krimpeillä. Kiasmasta on sen verran aikaa, että on vaikea verrata... 7c tai +

Save it for the good weather and you´ll enjoy it

Beautiful toe burning adventure.

Not a typical Kalymnos climb. Crispy crimping and technical gaston moves. Felt pretty stiff for me.

Best of the 7a’s here

What a journey. Took my time with the rests on the second go and spent about 1h15min on the route. Pleasure all the way 😀

Oh so slippery

Totally unique!!!

In the light of past events, the crux is not so shocking

Because its hard and short

First go but I knew the top from working on Labyrinth.

Moves are mainly good but a maybe a bit unnecessarily runout.

Excellent warmup

Not that polished but full of chalk that still comes off with a brush. Use them brushes in all routes before its too late!

Nice easier tufa pinching and then some cool roof climbing with a tricky ending.

Åssåme!!!

Managed to onsight this on the second go 😎

Very nice and continuous. A warm recommendation.

Uuh, nasty&sharp

Super nice easy climbing with reachy moves and the a modern gym boulder problem. Almost felt like 7a but its harder than the other 7a´s at the crag.

I have some trouble deciding if I like it or not.

Perfect kneebar tufa action.

Unnecessarily chipped

What a fight. Luckily there are good enough rests inbetween the cruxes.

6a+ doesnt get better than this...

The tufa dont lie... Or does it 😀 (The crimp for the second clip feels like its moving, might be a good idea to preclip if the draws are not in place)

Amazing fatpinch tufa. There seems to be a bit of a beauty bonus on the grade. I guess its 6c+-7a+ depending on how you use the tufa...

Very nice

Chipped

The beginning is good climbing

Nice moves but quite sharp in the end

Seemed to end on the ledge...

Very interesting

Warm-up doesnt get better than this!

Nice, but the fun ended too soon.

Sweet crimping action!

Stiff and crispy crimping

Cool climbing although quite polished

Way better than it looks

L1

L1, 7a. Mellow and nice like Spanish sun

First pitch 7a

The only route I’ve done in Elona thats not worth recommendation. In any other crag it would get one star but now its just in too good company.

Bit of a hassle with the quickdraws in the beginning but once you get past that its very nice. Bring a long rope.

Great! A bit of a boulder crux in the middle, a proper bat hang in the roof and some juggy climbig to get over it.

Best of the ones I climbed here

Second half is very good. Low gravity dubbel-8-day 😀🥳🥳

Great athletic moves on big overhang. Felt easier than Gaidoura dura.

After weeks in tufas with kneebars this style felt hard even though its normally my home territory 😀

Oh, what a king line! Amazing tufa wrestling, 18 kneebars 😆 A good fight all the way to the anchor

Great moves on the overhang

Low gravity day! Mostly nice cruxy climbing.

Some cool moves in the start & bouldery sections.

Adds nothing to the route, dirty bushwalking.

Meegalooo!!! Climbing until the end with good rests. 7c+ in the newer guide I think, at least in Leonidio standards feels stiff for that grade.

Veery cool

Hard to know where you should climb but then again you can climb anywhere, 1000 different betas. With so many kneebars it almost felt like I cheated my way up...

Good one but its always bummer when the crux is clipping the anchor.

Again many kneebars, pure line.

Kneebarfest, the left leg was completely numb at the anchor

Tufa climbing school

Tufa climbing school part 2.

1st half is just intro, but 2nd half is 3 star moves. Bring some 60cm quickdraws, I think I used 5. Hard to say about the grade, its from the softer end for sure...

Slimy conditions but nice moves in the cruxes

Cool moves but really polished

Insane formations. So good. Crispy crimping in the end

1-3 move wonder crux. Otherwise nice easy climbing

Fantastic roof climbing!!!

Left side of the wall. Rock quality not as good as in others...

Amazing

Some really funky boulder moves in the beginning :)

WOW!!! Jugs jugs all the way