Hidden in the forest at the far end of Tyresö are a number of walls of different heights and angles. The largest is the slightly overhanging Sydväggen, which with a height of 25 meters actually belongs to one of Stockholm's more impressive walls. With the retro bolting of the route Jazzman a couple of years ago, more climbers found their way to this crag. Now the crag has developed further as another plus ten fully bolted routes have been added.
A few shorter 6a routes have been made, but also some cool 7b-7c leads.
Although the number of bolted routes is increasing, quite many climbs are still naturally protected or mixed. The distinct crack-line on Sydväggen (Swing it magistern, 6a +) is probably among one of the better trad routes in Stockholm and should not be missed. Quite many of the older routes are still in a rather bad condition (overgrown) and the older “sport routes” are poorly bolted and often miss proper anchor on top. However, renovation work is in progress, so keep an eye on the route descriptions regarding updates. Bringing a brush is a good idea.
The number of routes seen in the list here at 27 crags might mislead you a bit because many of the routes are pure linkups/combinations. There are not as many individual routes on the highest part of Sydväggen to choose from as it may first appear.
The structure of the south wall is quite special in places with its cool holes and it can be a bit sharp and rough as well. Other walls are lower but steeper and sometimes actually of excellent quality. Don't forget to take a look at the two smaller slightly overhanging walls; Flaskväggen and Mäusliväggen. Very nice quality, especially on Flaskväggen which now has got a couple of new fully bolted climbs on the left part of that sector. The right part of Rivinen with its water-polished rounded rock is pretty unique as well. Here are also two new easier fully bolted routes that offer more resistance than you might think.
It probably works very well to bring children here, although there are most likely a lot of ticks in the grass. Do not miss the fantastic little hidden paradise beach located at the southern end of the cape. There is a trail in the app (blue colour) that you can activate.
Environment: South and West. Shading leaves in front of the South Wall (summer climbing late afternoon and evening should work quite well). The other walls are fairly open with some trees here and there. This is a very good rock in spring before the leaves have sprouted.
