Description

This is a short but very steep crag that offers powerful and physically demanding routes with big roofs and plenty of jugs. It's a whole lot of fun if you have big biceps, or want to get it. The location near Södermalm and It's east-facing wall makes this crag a perfect after work traning gym on hot summer afternoon and evenings.

A couple of easier climbs at the flanks that are quite nice as well makes it worth a visit even if you don't climb so hard. The routes are between 8-15 meters long.

The rock have an interesting upside down tetris-like formation style that are quite special and engaging. It almost looks like it's going to fall apart anytime, but for the most part everything seems to stick quite well, although the lower part of the wall are a bit fragile and brittle, so climb smooth when clipping first and second bolt.

You need to make a long abseil from the top if you want to reach the anchors from above. It's pretty awkward and nothing I recommend.

The approach is easy as the crag is located along a bicycle path.

Environment: East facing. Sun until about 13:30. Some trees here and there. Traffic noise from road 222 is acceptable.

History

Mainly developed by John Luhr in the beginning of the 90s. The first ascent of Ursprunget is unknown and unreported which is a little funny considering its one of the best routes on the crag.