Tobias Karlsson

Good dynamic move. I don't know about the grade. Sit start project seems possible but very hard (>=8B?).

Very good delicate slab.

No handholds. Precise dynamic move to get established with foot in the crack.

Beautiful

Very low but nice moves.

Interesting climbing with both heel and toe hooks on great rock.

Great rock quality and height.

Nice but short mantle problem.

Started with right heelhook in the starting hold and used the left arete a lot. Nice.

Cool and somewhat airy. Recommended.

Like the great-roof in yosemite.

Standing start on the rock. Right hand on good crimp and went left to a reasonably small gaston crimp. Step onto the wall with high right foot and reach for the right hand sidepull underneath the lip.

Tried going for the good sidepull/jugg a few times but kept spinning of when trying to hold it. Went for the small crimp on the face instead. Better for me.

Moonboard. Long moves on good crimps. Great rock quality.

I think it felt harder than 6C. Nice lowball traverse.

Recommended. Somewhat airy semi-crux to mantle on to the face.

I think it felt a bit too powerful for being 6B+

Also very good. I think the confusion regarding the grades of 7C/8A on Sjöpungen is due to Björn doing the FA from the Sjöpungen extension start giving it 8A and some repeaters starting from this position (second half of the crux of the extension) due to lack of information.

Very good powerendurance boulder with a crimpy crux in the beginning.

Cool powerful moves.

Nice climbing on nice rock.

Nice! The sloper traverse is draining you for the final crimp moves, which for me felt like the crux. Fell four times in the session going for the final crimp before I surprisingly managed to stick it on the last attempt of my third climbing day. Was completely drained when I got up to the assumingly easy mantle, which was slightly harder than anticipated in a no fall zone, which resulted in some nice drama. Often very damp and bad conditions on this boulder, which can be a dealbreaker for the slopers. I used shallow knee-scums to stay positioned under the roof for the traverse.

Great highball in a beautiful spot. Spaced crimp-rails on an otherwise blank face. Much harder if you are shorter than 175 I guess, I could barely reach with my 178+6.

Really enjoy this one. Recommend you to try the front-flag beta to reach the stand start crimps.

I think this line is the line of the block and does not feel like a contrived linkup in any way. One of the best boulders I have done actually. 12 moves in a row which are all hard gives you a proper strength-endurance boulder. I think it could be 8A+ considering that it took me quite a few sessions to puzzle together and the seemingly few repetitions considering it is on one of the most visited blocks in Gothenburg. Even though no move is incredibly hard, you need to climb with a lot of precision on small holds and tiny feet, with a slow and precise match in the slot (especially if you have fat fingers) which drains some energy, which together makes it pretty hard to ascend. I started low in the starting holds and not as a proper sit (you need to be tall or have several pads to start sitting), I also used the tiny crimp-pinch in level and to the right of the slot which I heard some discussd whether it is included or not. To me it makes no sense to eliminate it and would only make this great line an elimination contrived line, it would neither make any difference in difficulty. Edit: Talked with first ascentionist who confirmed that the hold is not eliminated. I also used a kneepad to make the final kneescum part in La Bousse slightly easier when you arrive there with fatigue. Team ascent with Moritz in great conditions after a few sessions together. Thought I would fall from the topout-jugs with completely numb hands on the first attempt of the day.

Tricky body positions to make the shallow heelhooks stay. Mental mantle. Fell on the mantle on my first session. Felt like Seb Grieves on Meshuga in Hard Grit, i.e like a though guy, before I realized it is a pretty good fall on a pile of pads from 3m height. Regardless, classic line and interesting moves.

Two stars for the location which is amazing. I used holds and was with my body partially to the right of the arete. The mantle is a little bit tricky for the grade.

Cool board-style moves sharp holds! Tried a variant which started a few moves further down to the left, adding a few dabby-low crimp moves into the starting holds of this one.

Fun traverse on good rock!

The first hour of trying, it felt impossible to pull on the tiny crux hold and like I would break my foot in the heel-toe-cam. Tried a bunch of more or less weird alternative beta with little success. After some lental soup and colder conditions I was ready to commit and pull a bit harder. Then it went from impossible to successfully climbed within a few tries. Cool powerful moves but painful crux hold. Hard to say about the grade. Very powerful but so straight-forward that you will probably do it fast or not at all.

Cool toehook-boulder. Could not go directly to the lip (morpho-beta), but going to the crimps still felt more like 7C+ to me.

Powerful yet technical. Came very close to doing it on the first session, surprisingly. Then I had a few frustrating sessions with bad skin and conditions before I felt strong on it again. Tactic-beta to have someone guide the crucial heelhook which you throw blindly over the lip.

Classic and polished to glass. Interesting crux sequence. Being tall or having great flexibility may help. Took me a few sessions before I had the skin and microbeta to get to the top.

Fun mantle

Albarracin-typical deadpoint launch.

Very spectacular roof which takes minutes to climb. Like a one-move 8A boulder into 8b route? Suits my style very well.

Beta with matching the pocket which you deadpoint from, one-move boulder.

Beautiful

Endurance boulder.

Cool boulder in a 40 degree overhang on dark grey rock which is smoother than the rest of Utby. You feel badass climbing it, like D.Woods low gear machine style, giving multiple opportunities to show off your biceps strength in static moves. Semi-hard first half into powerful crux with a small incut undercling which you dyno to the lip from, a move which feels quite scary until you have commited a few times. Too bad the landing sucks and it is so moist and dark that you almost need a headlamp during daytime.

Short but still offers some challenging moves in classic board climbing style. Catching the lip and maintaining pressure on the left hand was the crux for me. Crux hand hold is very painful and specific. I don't know about the grade, 8A seems reasonable, probably a bit anti-morpho.

Some of the best moves I have ever done with great rock and sweet landing. Absolute world class and very unique!

One of the most iconic boulders in Sweden I suppose. Really really good! I think the stand start still offers the hardest moves of the boulder, and the lowstart adds some fatigue for when you arrive at the slightly tricky final moves. The heel or toehook for moving the left hand from the start hold is also quite tricky until you find the right body position.

Reachy and technical

Great line, cool moves and beautiful setting. Left exit felt more than a half grade harder.

Clean short face with crux matching on a small edge.

Powerful traverse, nice!

Nice climbing except for the rock in your back. I feel like the mental aspect is what makes it feel hard. Getting a toe up on the lowstart was extremely hard for me though, got nothing back except for cramp in the thigh xD.

Barndoor climbing on a tall arete. Mental topout.

Något enklare än vänstervariant tycker jag.

Kraftfull. Lite morpho.

Kraftfulla moves på små snedställda lister. Kvällsklättring i februari är ett för mig nytt fenomen. En utmaning att klättra med öppen handsfattning pga trasig A4.

Svårare än den ser ut. Två moves med areteklämmeri.

En högfriktionsdag är nog att önska om man har planer på bestiga denna. Har snart övat in alla moves på stenen där man inte behöver en hel vänsterhand.

Heelhook mantle on beautiful sloper.

"Best sloper on the west coast"

Nice climbing and good rock.

Not sure about which boulder we climbed but it was graded 7A but felt much easier than that. Slab where you finish with both hands matched on a crimp.

My longest standing project. Tried it during my first climbing day ever in 2014.

Nice, short moves on jugs with good feet.

Crimpy traverse with sensitive heels

Ungefär like svår bana som Porte grange sitten.

Spektakulär. Still mindblown by the quality of the brushing.

Cool! Inte så svårt in i Milky way, men höjer absolut graden.

Efter att ha desperat försökt fånga någon form av grepp uppe i klykan utan framgång så hittades en alternativ beta som kändes bättre för mig där man arbetar med fötterna uppe mot höger, plockar lilla krimpen mitt på facet i gaston och drar upp höger hand till pinch i höjd med klykan fast ca två dm från aretet och således inte på aretet enligt min och mina kompanjorers lekmansbedömning. Edit: Kikat på gamla videobetor och flera använder pinchen som jag skickar till efter att de har skickat vänster hand till klykan.

Underskattat urtoppningen några gånger och rykt av där. Gjordes med undercling-betan vid sänd, inte nödvändigtvis lättare men mindre chansartat än att fånga krimpen.

Cool! Var chanslös på bicepsdraget i sittstarten.