GBO 1 - Utby.
El nombre del niño, 8A
Moore of a low start if you are not tall.
Added by C Gredos
Grade opinions
Video beta
5:00
Tobias Karlsson almost 2 years ago.

Add a video!

Ascents from public tick lists

Tobias Karlsson
2022-04-02
Red point
8a+
I think this line is the line of the block and does not feel like a contrived linkup in any way. One of the best boulders I have done actually. 12 moves in a row which are all hard gives you a proper strength-endurance boulder. I think it could be 8A+ considering that it took me quite a few sessions to puzzle together and the seemingly few repetitions considering it is on one of the most visited blocks in Gothenburg. Even though no move is incredibly hard, you need to climb with a lot of precision on small holds and tiny feet, with a slow and precise match in the slot (especially if you have fat fingers) which drains some energy, which together makes it pretty hard to ascend. I started low in the starting holds and not as a proper sit (you need to be tall or have several pads to start sitting), I also used the tiny crimp-pinch in level and to the right of the slot which I heard some discussd whether it is included or not. To me it makes no sense to eliminate it and would only make this great line an elimination contrived line, it would neither make any difference in difficulty. Edit: Talked with first ascentionist who confirmed that the hold is not eliminated. I also used a kneepad to make the final kneescum part in La Bousse slightly easier when you arrive there with fatigue. Team ascent with Moritz in great conditions after a few sessions together. Thought I would fall from the topout-jugs with completely numb hands on the first attempt of the day.

Public to-do list entries