Rami Pääkkönen

Ok fun climbing

The crack is super cool climbing, the upper section is very akward and underwhelming

Grey rock

Better than the lower part

Partly rough rock, but ok higher up.

Powerful, technical, complex, fingery, juggy, mono, committing, long... this one has it all. 4/5 tries, felt hard I'd say 7b. (Dry weather helps a lot)

Nice crux, and continiously demanding but fun climbing, good line! 1st try, but did the lower crux earlier =redpoint

Nice crux to solve, then pleasant climbing.

Nice!

100% joy. I got pumped because I kept stopping to admire the holds :)

Just joy. So many fun holds

Blocky and a bit polished holds/pockets. Still, very cool line

Nice line with fun holds. Except the crux, it's a bit slopy

Ok, a bit too slabby for me

Best of the day! Suoer cool for a 6c, would be 3 stars if it wasn't so sandy and chossy in the middle. Ending is mega!

Strange and fun variety of holds, but a bit sandy. Will get even better I suppose

Much better than it looks, nice line

Sime of the most fun holds I've seen in a while

The obligatory bare foot 6a of the trip. Not bad, not amazing. A good warm up line.

Best of the day! Athletic vertical climbing on mega holds, perfect.

A good line, some strange holds

Super nice after the stars slab!

A bit nasty start, but otherwise a superb line. Enough challenge, but very manageable

I was fighting for real, 7a seems adequate. Double crux, and a definite style change!

A bit of everything, fun line, cool holds! Failed the warm up on-sight, a bit of a shame, but this one was a bit cruxy

Ok juggy line

Fun varied tufa blobs, otherwise a 3 star line, but slabby start= -1 star

Super nice blocky holds, liked it! Otherwise a 3 star line, but slabby start= -1 star

Very nice line, not that tough or intimidating

Cool tufa wrestling, knee bars and pump!

Perfect line, some cruxes, some cruising, no rough holds. A bit short, but intense. Proud for onshighting this one!

Some tricky sequences, but really nice line. Highly recommended.

Quite nice

Tough as nuts! I was really clawing my way up.

A tough 7a, or I'm just weak when it comes to slabby stuff. Still surprisingly fun.

A nice line, some crimpy cruxy things

Felt a bit loose and spooky, but some nice climbing still

Very varied and interesting all the way, nice! The best of the day

A good line with a defined crux sequence. Kinda committing mono action! Had to use index finger, middle one had minor injury

Kinda sharp holds mostly. Not the best, but not a total waste.

Nice

Tough end

Smooth sailing

Nice

Iha kiva, sekava alku

nice, powerful!

2 days, ~6 tries. The line is better than it looks, but you have to climb 3m of weird crap to get to the fun part.

fun!

super nice!

actually quite fun, and climbs nicely!

some really sharp/rough holds, but ok line otherwise. +30°C , pumped and sweaty.

Last route of the trip. Short, but very much what Margalef is all about: sustained pocket pulling.

Ugly start, but then Nice and flowy climbing, varying kinds of fun holds, really good line.

Nice and flowy climbing, varying kinds of fun holds, really good line

Real fight, but kinda fun anyway. Rough rock

start is a bit mid, but the upper half is pure Margalef-fun, pockets and big moves!

The start is not only hard, it's also ass. Mid part is meh. End is amazing, but not amazing enough to compensate...

Very enjoyable, just enough good holds when you need them. For me, the dihedral wasn't that amazing, but the upper part is fire!

sustained fun with very varying kinds of holds, not just the typical pockets. Bien!

Enough challenge, enough resting jugs. Perfect line. Thanks Mia for the flash-beta ;)

Amazing line, intense moves on 2 finger pockets, and possibly the first route I had to rely on a mono! -1* because I mangled up some fingers to a bloody mess, "bad skin day" (one long top rope session + two red point tries)

interesting and fun line, very good varied climbing!

mega pump fest, 2nd try. moves felt relatively easy when testing on the 1st try hang-dogging, but then you realize there are no real rests, and it's 36 m...

Truly a fantastic line, nice balance of cruising and commitment. unfortunately I fluffed the onsight due to some wet holds and bad route-finding.

2nd try. sandpaper-like rough rock, a bit intense climbing. maybe sandbag, or I had a bad day. 90% onsight (1st try climbed only 3 bolts)

a bit slick in the start, not my fav.

hard start, real fine line with nice holds otherwise!

hard start, real fine line with nice holds otherwise!

Nice upper part, but the start is a bit meh. Softer side of 7b, maybe even 7a+. Tried it a year ago once or twice, today took 2 giga falls before sending it.

good holds where please?

not bad, not awesome. 6c in new guide is accurate.

A clean line with a couple of different kinds of sections, fun climbing on decently good holds. A formidable challenge. 2 days and a total of 5 tries (including some dogging)

very fun and varied climbing, one of the best around this grade!

barefoot onsight, a bit rough for toes. But worth ot for the memes :)

ok climbing, but rought rock, needs more traffic.

pleasant climbing, good rock, nice line!

very pleasant 6a, enjoyable, but the start is stiff

sandbagged AF... took more tries on this one than the previous three 7a's combined... fun line, but tough as nuts.

super cool moves all the way, and some memorable cruxy bits. -1* for being a bit polished, otherwise a true gem.

awesome and varied climbing! a real fight to the anchor, mega pumped, but got it thanks to some cheering from below.

exciting!

awesome, exactly what I came here for <3 intense 2-3 finger pocket pulling. went straight through the crux, not left or right.

tough

very fun, not too rough

nice

ok

did the boulder start with bad holds. ok, but nothing special

I had to climb down a bit from the anchor to shake the pump off before reclimbing and finally getting the clip in

very tricky boulder, not very fluid climbing.

My first bare foot lead climb, yay!

annoying end

pleasant!

crumbly but fun rock in the start. a nice route to end the trip :)

somehow felt hard. bad back pain didn't help the matter

a bit painful at the end, but otherwise a superb line. failed one try due to inability to to clip the chains, just way too pumped :D

7a in new guidebook. a bit different feeling than the other lines here, but still very fun

very sustained, and has some weird sequences. endurance feast on slight overhang. exactly the kind of stuff I wanted to climb here :)

very fun 6a, but too short

better than the one on left

ok

good endurance fest! 7a in new book, start from the bottom, not using the block behind.

very much enjoyable

fun, except start slab

perfect 5

perfect 5

good!

very good pump fest that never gives you a break! 2 days and 4 tries, + some figuring hang dogging.

The slabby section is short, but very disgusting. Vertical bit is fun tho. There are nicer routes here, not sure why this gets so hyped, I honestly wouldn't do it again.

After the long moves on the lip, an absolute scrap-fest to reach the chains. Best pump of the trip. 3 tries, did not use the hook beta, but the undercling.

an absolute fight. starts off quite relaxed, but the end really holds no punches. I climbed it in full sun, that did not help.

date not exactly right

fluffed the onsight by panicking, 2nd go

nice line

beautiful line with some committing sections!

one of the best so so far. I did it again after just to enjoy it some more. :)

really cool, varied line. stopper start, then endurance feast

not my fav., not the nicest warm up

2nd try after warming up by taking the draws up. good, sustained and varied :)

the start is fun and movie-like, but there are struggles to be faced before the anchor. very close to falling on one clip :0

ok, but a bit awkward/scrambly.

Aivan tuhoton ääliöpumppi, kun meni vaiheiluun aikaa ja enuja. Hieno pätkä!

absolute gem of a line!

not my fav... somehow felt sketchy

very nice! the start took some figuring out, but the rest I did onsight.

stiff, polished but still very enjoyable.

nicer than the one 6a on left side

strenuous, and my feet hurt

very nice line, pleasant pocket holds mostly.

tough!

my poor feet...

fun holds

this is a fun line, but there's no way this is 7b, even 7a is generous. Please people, be honest and use the "grade opinion" option in 27crags...

demanding in some bits

beautiful clean line with nice holds

very nice line with some tricky sections. Near "on sight", only abseiled down half way from another anchor and saw some holds, no beta really, but also not a clean onsight, so...

kinda awful compared to others here

really cool, but not sure if it is worth the approach hike. the path is quite sketchy :/

commiting moves

awesome single tufa that offers you a bit of everything: jugs, crimps, slopes, big moves, technique, finesse... Plus the view! 7a+ in new topo, and I feel it's fair.

real cool! very spicy start on this one. (jamming gloves not needed)

a bit awkward, but ok

mega!

super cool, be prepared for a punchy crux! mostly awesome holds, but some could be more ergonomic

quite stiff mod part, I think at least 6c

sustained sequence, fun

quite bice holds and moves, some a bit crimpy

fun single tufa, gets surprisingly pumpy for such a short one. many cool holds and features (7a in some topos, 7a+ in one, and 6c+ in others. i dunno)

fun one

fun moves, good holds and some exceptional tufa holds. a gem

fun moves and nice holds

fun moves on good holds

I was stupid pumped at the chains.. This style of climbing gets so awkward if you're not fully in the "tufa-mode".

onsight, but did the beginning some years ago

fun moves!

can be slippery

better than the lower half

start is annoying grey rock, rest is quite fun really.

7b in new topo, and I agree. Super cool stamina monster, ~80m rope was barely enough to get to ground. comps style, gets harder as you go. took two days.

cool varied line, in my opinion a solid 7a.

sustained

cool, sustained line

hieno!

ugly boulder start, no stars. (had 2 preclips that almost felt cheating, but I do like my ankles intact.)

very nice variation!

maybe a bit stiff? 6c?

very nice line actually, and not as wet as it looks, the rock just is that color.

Nice route, a bit different. Quite stiff for a 6c+, I would say it felt more like a 7a (I am a weak crimper, that might explain it)

three days projecting. really fun and athletic, partly slippery but still an awesome line!

awkward start, but then fun. maybe I did something dumb.

fun, and not as wet&mossy as it looks. go for it!

climbed w/ top wet. better than I 1st thought it would be.

very very cool big deadpoint moves! climbed it wet, top was soaked.

Quite ok line, but a bit slippery. Climbed in rain, fun times.

maybe squeezed in, but very fun, worth climbing for sure!

ok, but not the best stuff

athletic fun times!

beautiful line, super pumpy! Same difficulty as Bavaria... took the same amount of tries (5-6 I think)

solo

high tide

free-soloed this one bare foot maybe a dozen times - became a swimming day tradition during the trip to Tronheim/Hell. <3

pumpy, and just barely enough jugs.

fun, commiting. found an alternate beta for the top as well tho

surprisingly sharp, jamming gloves are nice

stiff. goes to the middle anchor in the highest point (don't cheat by going right in the top)

unlikely looking, and intimidating, but somehow you find a way

really fluid but pumpy af

a bit fingery and not the nicest route in general. climbed it in the rain...

stiff start again

pumpy all the way to anchor

athletic

mega pump in 9 meters! so cool route, with just barely good enough holds. 2,5 stars because of one nasty knob hold, otherwise 3***

a bit of a stopper start move, but nice line still.

really good! I liked it more than Lysere Tider

nice!

stiff start, then fun

stiff! fun fun pocket pulling, with some obscure sequences. kinda like upper part of Yoko Mono in Leonidio, Greece.

stiff start but real fun

5 preclips in... but got to lead the top crux at least.

Really nice line with multiple scetchy sequences. 28°C summer send temps, luckily there was still some icy cold caves underground to cool off.

Awesome and varied climbing all the way. Must be one of the best climbs in Finland in this grade.

hieno, vähän terävä paikoin, mutta ehdottomasti kiipeämisen arvoinen

kamat meinas loppua, muuten kivaa

a couple of good (but reachy) moves in the beginning, then unnecessarily long sharp slab.

A 3-day mega project, but so worth. possibly the most central line of the crag, snaking up the mid roof after the 1st anchor. 1st part (6c) is pumpy but manageable, in the extension things get really intense really fast, and the pump never stops: took some ~7 m whippers from the top slab before sending....one of the best climbs I've done maybe ever.

Nice route! 1st try, but i did the beginning earlier. Almost fully piloted by Mia's beta :)

a bit intense crux, but nice. demanding all the way

good climb with a definite cruxy part, plus the usual pump

fun, challenging 2-part romp. Proper pocket-pump!

I don't think it's a 7b, but it's better than it looks, pockety fun! Climbed it eventually in rain, the top hold do get a bit wet.

bouldery crux again, then pumpy pocket fun

pumpy all the way!

bit bouldery

maybe a bit morpho, but really cool still

bouldery start with slopers, then ok.

Very nice for the grade, do it!

cool climb, surprisingly pumpy for a short one.

maybe 7a+, only a few hard moves. 2nd try

"french free" to get to the ledge with a backpack, pulling from draws and all :D

6c+ in some topo, but 7a is about right for this one. a stellar climb all the same!

perfect! a bit short, which maybe isn't a bad thing after all :)

surprisingly good! Ascend 1st try, but I climbed the lower part 6b already once before

nice and cruxy! 6c+ in topo

real nice 5c+

a bit spooky at the top

fun!

best of the day, 6b in topo

nice intro to Eggum. harder routes were too much in the humid and damp weather

bailed after the 4th pitch. it was run out and felt hard, was not in the mood for more

kivaa

hieno, en käsitä miten kivi on tuon muotoista.

29C, aika napakkaa

29C helteessä teki tiukkaa

!

hienoa, tasaisen haastavaa. lähdin siitä nurkkahalkeamasta, ns ylemmästä. ja diagonaalina kunnes ylempää oikealle viistoon ylös

hieno! topissa vähä rannaria

tää oli upeaa vääntöä

good chimney/offwidth, ruined with holds! still a good route.

I wish this would go on and on! Although then I would need more than one #4...

A bit intimidating, but really cool cruising on exciting features/cracks.

Close your eyes and think of Kalymnos. ;)

really cool route, special shapes! not too loose rock,either. Directe insteget seems unnecessary

fun

a fine route with some versatility. the approach is no joke either.

lead all. nice line, but descent is a horror story with lowering/downclimbing with marginal gear, or maybe we did it wrong. (after the 4th pitch, to the left.)

date wrong

lead all. 1st pitch felt almost as challenging as the 2nd, but in a different way. a good route anyway.

quite committing.

really good, it deserves more stars! start is crap, but the rest is worth it.

nice top part!

fun times

quite a journey

Interesting, not your basic off-width.

loose rocks?

Tokalla. Saittiyrkällä lipes jalka heti tokalta pultilta.

Helpompi kuin "vaikeen helpotus".

Yllättävän vaikea edelleen.

Vähä likanen ja aika tiukka. Kaksikin ihan kunnon maxi-reachia tai dynoa, aika kova.

Ihan tosi siistit moovit. Välillä tuntui aika ilmavalta, se pulttaus ja kallion muoto.

Kuumotti se kattopätkä, että menee köysi poikki jos pannuttaa oudosti. Aiheeton pelko todennäkösesti. Hienoja mooveja :D

olipa kyllä hieno! ja lopussa taisin hieman dynota, kun meni vaikeaksiuuten.

Vähä tiukkaa krimpppiäki seassa

jeba!

kyä!

Alku kamalaa krimppiä, sit aika hienoo paukuttelua! Jussin videon olin kattonu etukäteen, eli flässi. Kai videosta vähä oli hyötyä.

2019 meni tokalla RP yrkällä. olkapää verillä, molemmat kyynärpäät verillä, molemmat polvet ruhjeilla, vasen polvi mustelmilla (ekan yrkän pannu oli vähä so-so.. ranteet verillä, varpaat muusia, otsassa naarmuja ja kuhmu, maha naarmuilla. Totally worth it.

ihan ok ränni, helpohko. kutonen ja vitonen taas kivoja

Hienoa jammailua

Aika tiukka boulderi alussa

#5 ja #6 oli hyvä olla topissa, oli multainen ja märkä, mutta ihan hauska offaripätkä!

henkan suositus. 2014 tms. 2019 OS, olihan se hieno! hikistä vääntöä koko matka, stäkkiä summuuta

Ihan ku tekis otelautatreeniä

hieno!

sharp, meh

strenuous, and somehow weird. but it has some fun holds and moves tho

date might be wrong

sustained crimpy/tricky. date may be wrong

pumpy, sustained

nice! some day the full line, maybe!

spooky!

date may be wrong

date not exact

date not exact

date not exact

date not exact

One scary bolt, but cool route. The ending is still a real pain int the ass

stiff?

date wrong. Short boulder problem with a couple of desperate moves. Difficult to grade because the crux is relatively short, but I'll happily take the A+ and so will Mia

jug city until you hit the crux. OnSight taking up the draws, and performing a one arm hang for pics, thx Leslie!

7A now in topo, this is about right 2nd go, reall cool route with a distinct cruxy bit. One tufa was wet to add grade.

Tänä vuonna ekalla viileässä, viimevuonna ei menny, 32 C helteessä...

"Steady away" 6b+, felt hard 6c. But cool moves

Spooky expo, but nice. Easy?

For a grey vert climb, really nice! Some cool cruxy sections, not sharp tho. 7a seems fair

Amazing pinch crux, with some wawering around the tufa. Some dynos, and sweet jugs.

Alku herkkää ja outoa, loppu alsoluuttisen huikeeta menoa.

On vaikia, herkkä monesta paikkaa, ja tuikeita gastonmooveja. Onneks on kahvojakin.

Kuumotusta toppiin saakka, hienoja krukseja matkalla.

Vähä liukasta paikoin, mutta oli hienoa kiivettävää! Maasta asti, 80m köydellä

Miellyttävää saitattavaa. Maasta asti, eli alkupätkä lämppänä