Juha Lipponen

Good route! I ended up enjoying it for several tries. Well-protected but pumpy! Trad anchor needed, top can be reached quickly via left. Cleaning by lowering/rappeling is possible but a bit arduous. I would recommend following or z-pulley jumaring from below.

Suberb climbing, absolute classic!

Seconded. Short but very good climbing. The corner requres surprisingly many tricks. Well protected.

Second go. Cruxy, felt reachy for me at 175 cm. Significantly easier if you're 180 cm or more, much harder for 170 cm or less. Protection is good and straightforward except there where you really need it. I would not recommend this route for pushing the grade unless you are tall.

Seconded. Good climbing for the grade. Nice hamdjams in the first section, varied 3D problemsolving later on.

Seconded. Stiff start.

Delightful climbing! Gentle start for the trad season.

Old school 5+. My idea of a "perfect hand crack" is quite different. The flake is not quite as bad as it looks.

Well protected and very nice climbing. Nuts can be used instead of micro cams.

Trusting the friction is very much the name of the game here. Some holds you would like to pull turn out to be loose. The left-side dihedral alternative on 5th pitch (end of Sagostunden) provides a spicy finish. Led pitches 2,3,4 and 5.

Seized a rare opportunity when saw this free of guided groups. Exceptionally pleasant jug hauling even compared to sport routes, with a couple of not-so-straightforward sections. Flash since had rappelled the line before.

Amazingly airy climbing. Somewhat hard and committing crux.

2nd grade course in jamming. Great learning experience, I'll climb it again when I need a refresher.

Somewhat dirty but ok to climb. Climbing and protection is much better than it looks.

Proper wrestling.

Seconded. The last (optional) part from three anchor to top is definitely solid 5+.

Nice climbing! Too bad it's a bit short.

Great handjamming in the start, would be suberb if it was like that all the way. Possible to clean from bolt of neighboring sport route + 0.75 cam behind the boulder. Also possible to traverse right to bolted anchor, 0.2 cam nice to protect the traverse although it's easy.

Great sustained climbing. The degree of excitement depends on the rack but is significant in any case. On the second pitch some surface parts seem to be in the process of cracking off although they look very solid at first look.

Excellent and exhilarating climbing! Beware of the ticking crocodile!

Seconded first pitch. Pretty nice climbing, exciting at places.

Cramped, slightly overhanging corner-handcrack with offwidth flair. Technical, intense and strenuous. Best route I've climbed in Kustavi. Felt hard, took 3 days and 6 tries.

Varied and challenging climbing in many sizes. It aint over untill it's over!

Pretty nice but inhomogeneous.

Best thing to climb in the midsummer eve night! Led pitches 1 and 3.

Mahtavaa vääntöä.

Vähän piti verta vuodattaa.

Vaati hieman treeniä että sai äänen lähtemään.

Tyydyttää kovemmankin makeannälän.

Offwidth workout :)

Crossfit is dead. Long live Crackfit!

Second go. Good, challenging and exciting climbing.

Nice route. A bit trickier to climb and protect than it looks.

Left side variation. Super nice, easier than it looks.

Seconding.

Nice and exciting!

Kakkostelin. Todella mukavaa kiipeilyä alun jälkeen.

Vasemman kautta. Oli kyllä elämäni tiukoin nelonen.

Nice climbing but very inhomogenous.

Nice trad practice, offers also opportunities to train hand jamming. Best to continue the corner up all the way. Also possible to climb short face to right from the ledge.

Satisfying, airy and steep climbing on good holds. Somewhat scary approach and exit. Route line in photo of Rockfax 2017 topo is wrong for stand 2 and pitch 3, real line is about 5-10 m left of this. Text description is correct. Photo in old Rockfax topo is correct. First pitch is much harder than what topo says (5 or 5+ really), must be a mistake in topo.

Led pitches 4,5,6, 8,9,11,12, took one fall on 9.

Climbed on 2 nd try

Very nice easy climbing in the evening sun. There was still snow in Zapferenna and on the scrambling part, but steeper climbing was dry. Started at col, scrambled until start of first steep section, climbed 4 pitches on the arete, ended up at foot of large monolith (visible clearly on the skyline) There would still have been 1 pitch of easy climbing ( crossing first the top part of Zapferenna) + maybe some scrambling to the top. Rappeled two pitches in Zapferenna and then two more pitches from bolted anchors, and scrambled back to the col. Topo is not very clear about where the route goes exactly, at the hut there was old topo photocopy which indicated that the route should deviate right from the arete after the bolted anchors.

Excellent, airy climbing with good holds. Well protected.

Intereting off-width near top.

My proper initiation to jamming. This point is as red as they come.

With Eemeli Tikkanen. Lead pitch 2.

With Eemeli Tikkanen. Leading 1,3,5

Great route! With Eemeli Tikkanen. Full 7 pitches. Leading 2,4,6.

With Eemeli Tikkanen. Had to wait two hours at top while guides hauled up ans down a bunch of middle-aged ladies. Fortunately view and weather was not too bad. Leading 1,3

Harder than it looks, I fell 3 m to ground on first attempt.

With Murggu.

With Murggu.

Hannele and Henri L seconding. Climbed both pitches of this route, birds are long gone this time of year :)

Had seconded this earlier. Hannele and Henri as seconds.

BETA WARNING! Fell on first attempt after placing first protection ( No 2 friend) in the starting crack. Friend ripped out on impact and I fell all the way to ground, luckily my technical friend Matti happened to be standing close by and softened my fall. No injuries /bruises to anyone. Apparently failure was caused by poor placement. Friend was in uneven crack and apparently twisted/moved to wider section when loaded.

Had seconded Vita Leden Original earlier so no onsight.

Lead first pitch, seconded second pitch, if I remember right.

First trad lead. Nice and easy route with good protection but first time is always exciting:)