Clemens Deutsch

Mildly spicy with the small crimps! But quite fun

First crux in the start, which it shares with the neighbouring 5, and mossy on top. A solid 0*.

No stars for misleading(?) topo and that bolting…

2nd go. Interesting climbing all the way.

5+ attempts when it could’ve been 2, yet worth every go. Particularly delicate and super fun second half + exit.

Alternativ start till Stampe.

Fun, easy-ish. Maybe not 6c+ :)

Fun climbing on the face with interesting holds. Felt hard.

Linked L1 and L2. 5+ according to local topo.

Cool! Even better still than it’s neighbour to the left, Black Hole

If you climb more on the arête, it does not become easier.

Lead L2, L4-6. L2 5c is not to be underestimated. As for the neighbouring lines (Federer), the lower pitches can be sandy. The last three pitches, however, are quite fun: Juggy steeper sections, simple slabs, technical dihedrals.

Powerful yet technical tufa boulder problem in the beginning, followed by easy but more difficult-to-read climbing on smaller holds.

Weird line and grading. Expect to struggle if you’re just comfortable at 5s

Together with Psilon’s extension (50m)

2nd go with a water-filled crimp in the bottom.

Stemming through the dihedral.

Burly at the top!

2nd. No warmup flash for me.

2nd. Took a wrong turn on OS 🙃

Beautiful and hard!

Some misleading bolts towards the end. Follow your intuition. If you keep right, you might encounter a potentially big loose ledge.

Super interesting, long climbing (40m), not necessarily hard. According to guide book it is "bolted to modern sport climbing standards" and as such it has a whopping 7 bolts on 40m of climbing. I guess it is already time to learn how to use slings in Montserrat :)

2nd press, fantastic and technical climb. Hard?

-2 stars for the polish

Suiting style and massive beta from Alden. Grade hard to judge. Between 7a and 7a+?

The original route and it’s variant are mixed up in the 2022 edition of the Versante Sud guide book. Watch out. Wanted to do the 6a :)

According to new route names on the wall, this route should be Edolo, whereas Faustolona is to the left.

Heartbreaker at the victory jug.

The hard start wont get easier as the seasons pass

Fun climbing. Chimney, crack, offwidth. And you don't even need crack climbing skills.

Almost got the onsight, couldn't solve the last hard move. 2nd go.

This route demanded a lot from me today, happy with the onsight.

Fun! All hard pitches are marvellous climbing.

Some rather reachy moves! But fun climbing.

Interesting crux on grey slab.

Slightly polished but still very much fun. The extension would be 3* but didn’t happen in the current conditions.

Could be 3* if it wasn’t as polished. Still fun though

Quite had for the grade! Maybe it deserves the plus or maybe I should just stick to slabs. Fun route nonetheless.

2nd go

Cool route requiring some smearing techniques. Clueless on flash attempt, messed it up on 2nd go. 3rd go it was.

Perfect route for finishing a good day at the crag. Rather technical than powerful crux, a bit reach perhaps.

7a+ according to UKC and 8a. Soft.

2nd go.

2nd, onsight attempt felt like 7a, send go like 6c. From the last clip you can go either left or right, it seems a bit undefined. The moves in the second half are well worth climbing though.

Mossy, chossy, single-bolt anchor (2022). All clips clippable from the crack on the right, which would make it 5+. No fun at all without cleaning 🙃 maybe I’ll come back with a wire brush for a directer line.

Quite okay, but short.

Really fun, exciting and technical moves on British flowstone, just after a bouldery move to and over the lip. Three stars if the lower half would be more entertaining and first bolt not as high (climb starts on very loose terrain). Not easy onsighting and maybe not necessarily easy for the grade.

Found the route description slightly misleading and ended up too far right in the last third, clipping bolts on Scyphostoma and anchor again on Ryme Intrinseca. Not 7b this way (and not recommended).

Fun crux, good rock quality, interesting holds.

Short and straight forward, one of the better warmup’s in the gorge if you want to climb below 6.

OK climbing but very choosy in the middle third

2nd go. Fun boulder sequence and 2 stars if it'd be longer!

2nd go, two years later

Good climbing for the grade here at Skevik!

2nd

Nice climbing, better than the other 6a’s below

Soft. Första delen är lite hårdare än övriga

Quite a bit harder than the the other 6c-7a at Brattberget. Enduring and technical climbing all the way up. Excellent route despite being slightly overgrown.

håller graden för mig (7a)

2nd. Quite fun slab climbing

2nd go

Best on the slab wall?

Harder if you cannot jam.

2nd go. Little sketchy moves on onsight

Great climbing. Hard crux at maybe almost 6b?

Superb climbing on fantastic rock. Super happy with the onsight.

2nd go. Easy start into a bouldery overhanging move, followed by technical face climbing. Grade according to UKC. Lower in the grade.

Fingercrack

2nd go

2nd press

Weird but kinda fun

3rd go. Really fun route with some delicate moves. Onsight felt harder than other 6c/+ at Skevik.

Superb varied and technical climbing. Maybe easy for the grade despite a reachy crux move off some mediocre crimpers. Perfect finish for this trip.

No low hanging fruit. Anchor as drawn in Rockfax does not exist anymore. Now same anchor as Suphi.

one missing bolt/hanger

Superb technical climbing in the first half

2nd go

2nd go. contrary to the route description, I don't remember any missing bolts. route felt safe