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This crag is made for pure pleasure climbing. Most routes are either vertical or slabs and covered with perfect pockets and jugs.
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Here you get a lot of sun, so this crag is a good option if you want to tie in your harness in winter time. Best season is spring and autumn though. Only "Stierberger Nordwand" is recommended for summer.
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Beside "Stierberger Nordwand" all sectors are faced south more or less and are highly exposed up on a hill. So these sectors dry very fast after rain. On the other hand there's almost no one route that's rain protected.
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Access is a little steep but the sectors "Münchser Wand" and "Stierberger Gemsenwand" are perfect with kids. All other sectors have steep bases and require some spotter.
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Next Camping is in "Betzenstein". Good restaurants are located in "Stierberg", Betzenstein" and "Obertrubach". For shopping you need to drive either to "Ottenhof" at the motorway. A little grocery store is in "Betzenstein" or "Hiltpoltstein".
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If you need any climbing related stuff, go to "Rock Store" in "Betzenstein".
Swimming pool is in "Betzenstein".
💎 Goodies
super soft:
- Westkante (Langer Berg- Heuler)
- Asselpfeiler
soft:
- Wacholderweg
- Finger
- Weiße Verschneidung
- Handriss (Stierberger Gemsenwand)
- Brillentöter
- Südpfeiler (Stierberger Gemsenwand)
medium:
- Referendarsteig
- Fräulein Smillas Gespür für Schnee
- Traumtänzer
- Franz Sticht Gedenkweg