Description

🧗
This crag is made for pure pleasure climbing. Most routes are either vertical or slabs and covered with perfect pockets and jugs.

❄️🌼🌞🍂
Here you get a lot of sun, so this crag is a good option if you want to tie in your harness in winter time. Best season is spring and autumn though. Only "Stierberger Nordwand" is recommended for summer.

💧
Beside "Stierberger Nordwand" all sectors are faced south more or less and are highly exposed up on a hill. So these sectors dry very fast after rain. On the other hand there's almost no one route that's rain protected.

👶
Access is a little steep but the sectors "Münchser Wand" and "Stierberger Gemsenwand" are perfect with kids. All other sectors have steep bases and require some spotter.

🍽🍻🛌
Next Camping is in "Betzenstein". Good restaurants are located in "Stierberg", Betzenstein" and "Obertrubach". For shopping you need to drive either to "Ottenhof" at the motorway. A little grocery store is in "Betzenstein" or "Hiltpoltstein".

🏊
If you need any climbing related stuff, go to "Rock Store" in "Betzenstein".
Swimming pool is in "Betzenstein".

💎 Goodies

super soft:
- Westkante (Langer Berg- Heuler)
- Asselpfeiler

soft:
- Wacholderweg
- Finger
- Weiße Verschneidung
- Handriss (Stierberger Gemsenwand)
- Brillentöter
- Südpfeiler (Stierberger Gemsenwand)

medium:
- Referendarsteig
- Fräulein Smillas Gespür für Schnee
- Traumtänzer
- Franz Sticht Gedenkweg

Routes on Stierberg
116 sport 41 trad 15 Likes
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Stierberg

Climbing has been limited!

⛔️🦌
Please leave the forest one hour before sunset due to wild life.

🚗
This crag is located between the small villages "Münchs" and "Stierberg", 2 km west of "Betzenstein".
The easiest Approach is via Motorway A 9. Take exit #46 and drive to "Betzenstein". Drive almost through "Betzenstein" and turn left onto "Stierberger Straße" next to the sports field. You reach "Stierberg", turn left in the middle of the village towards "Münchs". 340 meters before you enter the village "Münchs" park to your right at the parking where the forest ends to your right next to the street.

🚶‍♂️

Stierberger Gemsenwand:
Go back the road towards "Stierberg" for 320 meters. Turn left onto a forest road. After further 100 meters there's a foot path to your left leading to the crag.

Stierberger Nordwand:
Go back the road towards "Stierberg" for 320 meters. Turn left onto a forest road and follow that road for about 180 meters. You pass the base of "Stierberger Gemsenwand", then spot for the lowest section of the ridge. There's an unclear footpath crossing the ridge. Keep slightly right after you've passed the ridge, then you'll get to the very right section of the sector.

For all further sectors take the forest road into the forest up north (right to you, facing "Münchs"). Turn right immediately after you've entered the forest and follow the forest road up the hill for 100 meters.
From here: ->

Langer Berg Wände:
Turn left and get onto the hiking trail that is just 10 meters parallel behind to the forest road you get onto.
Follow that hiking trail. After 250 meters you'll pass the first sector (Heuler). Go ahead the hiking trail and you'll pass the next sectors (Smilla & Hyde). Last sector is after 670 meters.

Münchser Wand:
This sector is just in front of you slightly to your right.

Käferstein:
Go to "Münchser Wand" and follow the crag's base to the left. Stay close to the rocks, otherwise you'll get lost between the young trees. You'll reach the sector after 180 meters.