Description

Majestic rock pillars in amazing and awe inspiring surroundings. A must visit for trad climbing in the area. Old school mountaineering crag. Vertical climbing on cracks, corners, chimneys, dihedrals and ledges. Here you will find first class climbing for climbers of all grades.

The two massive rock pillars are called Gubben and Gamla.

Long ropes are needed for many of the routes. Bolted anchors for rapelling down can be found above Mossekspressen (35 meters), Babyface (20 meters) and Telemarksuiten (40 meters). The easiest way up is Den sorte kamin (4+).

Some of the lines are mix routes, that have not been rebolted since the 80s. Rusty and dodgy looking bolts should be inspected before being used.

Classics:
Den sorte kamin (4+)
Babyface (5+)
Superrisset (7a)
Mossekspressen (7c+)

Recommended climbs:
Tjuvstart (6a)
Delicatessen (6b)
Ilddåpen (7a)
Blodbekk (8a)

History

There are old stories of people climbing on Gygrestolen, but one of the first confirmed ascents of Gamla was done by Bjørn Hafskjold in the 1960s.

Øyvind Moss established several of the obvious lines in the 80s and early 90s. Between 2015 and 2018, many new hard projects were sent, where several ascents were made by Chris Glastonbury.

Routes on Gygrestolen
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Martin Hagen Ring
M. Hagen Ring
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Ole Karsten Birkeland
O. Birkeland
from Sogndal, Norway
Tobias Brodahl
T. Brodahl
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Gygrestolen

The area is access sensitive!

1) Gygrestolen is located inside a nature reserve, and the wildlife, vegetation and geology is protected by law. Bolting is not allowed.

2) Driving from Bø: Drive towards Lunde and take a right when there's a sign to Gygrestolen. Follow signs until you reach the parkings. The large parking is a paid parking, but it's possible to park on smaller, free parkings that are located before the paid one.

3) Walking from parking: Walk along the car road, and walk PAST the first trail to Gygrestolen. Walk 350 meters further, and you will see a new trail (with sign) to Gygrestolen to the left. Take this trail for about 20 minutes, and look for a trail going left, that is marked by a small rock pile (this is the trail AFTER the trail leading to "Maurknatten"). Follow the small rock piles through rugged terrain until you reach the base of the corner of the west- and north face of Gamla.

Approach to Den sorte kamin:
In order to reach popular routes Den sorte kamin and Babyface, you will have to do a short climb first, called Normalveien (grade 4-), followed by a scramble. To find the start of Normalveien, walk down and along the front of the north face of Gamla. Around the corner you will arrive at the start.