Tobias Martin

Piti olla aika tähtikala cruxissa. Hauska cruxi on

Herkkää on. Seuraten pulttilinjaa cruxissa

On kyllä hienoa hiippailua, herkkää menoa ison osan aikaa

Messed up my crux sequence on lead and chickened out as it gets spicier later

Sanoisin että ehkä 6c/+, loppu halkeama ei ollut itselle spicy ja suht selkeä layback betalla, aikaisemmin reitillä oli oma ”voimakkain” kohta mutta suht nopeasti sai koko homma kasaan. Ja eka liidi yrkällä meni

Pointless forced dumb arete elimination, route just climbs poorly and forces a grade instead of the natural line. Minus stars because of that

Eka 7b liidi, hienot muuvit cruxissa. Meni sitten päivän ekalla liidi yrkällä, pari päivää aikaisemmin ylärillä. Pianomatch oli omalle pituus/sylivälille the way.

Found beta in the sweaty heat. Lead next session

Hikikitka meininki. Previously toproped 21.4.2023

Hieno on! Enemmän tekninen kuin fyysinen, aika beta herkkä. Eka 7a+ sportti

Seems I top roped this 22.6.2013.

Oikein hieno reitti, kun löytää oikeat ”jalat”. Eka sportti 7a mutta mahdoton kommentoida greidiä kun ei ole fyysinen vaan tekninen ja beta herkkä

Enemmän henkinen kuin fyysinen. Tärkeimmissä kohdissa saa hyvät varmistukset

Next time lead

kakkostelen siivoamaan camut

Nice sneaking on non holds

Mostly mental crux, good to have small cams. Top rope 24.5.2020

Cleaning gear

Really nice route! A lot of microbeta to remember. No need for second bolt preclip, there are good crimps that can be used for clipping. Top roped it 9.8.2022

Didn't get the clean lead yet

On kyllä varsin epämukava poketti

Varmaan kokeillut joskus ylärinä aikanaan

Kakkosena

Messed up the start

Oikein hieno, loppu ote oli aika lammikko

Hienot muuvit oli

Riittävän kuiva oli mutta iso osa aika märkä

Mielyttävä muuvittelua

Sent this in 30 degrees direct sunlight with 5 giant paarmas in my face Toprope 29.7.2021

Really nice route! Requires really small protection, largest was 0.5 at the end. Toproped 2.7.2021

Feels harder than 5 as I’m bad at jamming

Done as rope solo

Top rope 10.10.2020. Nice route with sensitive beta

Need to return for the lead

Climbed it after rain so some holds were still wet

Lead two first pitches

Spaced bolting

Third bolt is pretty rusty looking

24.7.2020 onsighted first pitch, was too wet for the second pitch so have to return for the rest still

Osaispa jammaa

Date not exact

Lead rope solo

Lead rope solo

Dirty and hard to protect

Second go send

Seems this is marked as 6c in the topo behind the board

Good moves, rock is a bit crumbly

Nice bouldery start, easy finish. First 7a+ for me

Second pitch felt pretty hard for N5+

Super nice line! First N7- or 6c trad lead. Super proud of this climb, flashed it on top rope the day before and came back and lead it.

Seconded

Nice route, lead pitch 2 & 4 seconded the rest

First N6 or 6a+ trad lead

12.7.2019 Backed off after third pitch so still need to come back and climb the rest of the route

11.7.2019 Backed off after third pitch at anchor so still need to go back for the rest. You need longer ropes than the topo says for the last rappel, had 60m ropes and still had to down climb most of the first pitch. Second pitch needs a #5 or maybe even #6 cam if you want to protect the off-width crux section

Almost got the onsight but foot slipped just before the anchor. Need to go back for this one

2nd go send woop, first 6c lead as in 2018 guide, messed up onsight by hitting hold after the crux a bit off

Got some nuts in the beginning but last good one about in the middle of the route and a run out afterwards to the anchor

Svolværgeite pretty much ruined by organized tourist groups, the guides hog the abseil anchor and causes a complete circus and super long cues to get down and they fly annoying loud drones

Hard to place gear, needs small cams

Might have climbed wrong but felt harder than 4+

Topo says “a little bit bold” this holds true

Quick clearad anchor

First ridgewalk

Done as 6 pitches, lead pitch 2,4,6 and seconded cleanly 1,3,5. Used harder variation for last pitch to top. 4 hours

First multipitch woop woop, although only seconded it cleanly