John Niklasson

after 100's of tries of 2+ years I finally went! bump beta was the way for me, after coming oh so close with the under-cross. superb in almost every way!

going straight up makes the problem ALOT harder.

damn, this is one helluva climb! so techy and cool. to me this is harder then I'll be back.

A rare seasonal flash! Worked it in summer temps last year, now with good stick it went quite easy. Prob a lil easier if your 180ish cm. Tremendous in every way! KING LINE!

A bit easier then platta rattar. The fact you can skip the heel is a bit sad 😔

I think this is equally as hard as dad's in the woods.

good holds but hard body positions! at least for me. turned into a war once I stuck the heel hook but hadn't really planned the upper part of the boulder! this might be 7A btw.

Absolute nails! 50 degree overhang on crimps. Like a minimoonboard in the wild! Might not be a classic but still packs alot of fun.

Hard to grade since the first move is the only hard part.

First move it the hard one, last move its the committing one. Soft for the grade.

I found this quite easy. Placed heel first and then went left hand. But perfect rock and moves! Basically 2nd go.

Had no skin but lotsa psyche! Beautiful line.

Lovely hold! The heel was hard for a stiffy like me.

Broke beta by using gaston and never using the left arete. Still nice climb but ALOT easier.

Nice crimps into a font-esque top out. I liked it! Sitstart is hard though!

Right hand crimp beta felt very easy. Almost flashed it. Fun moves though.

took me some 8-10 tries to stick the bump to the jug. such a cool power test piece! the move with left hand from heel hook is stellar.

An awkward start into some really nice and fun moves on an incredibly aesthetic line! Got some height to it as well.

this is a crazy problem! such a mystery that this absolute gem of a climb fell into oblivion! but it's back. get on it. absolute 3 star problem.

terrific movement on good solid holds! once all the moves where figured out it went down quick. well worth a visit.

physical and fun!

massive move with a tricky top part. went left hand on big move. splendid.

went alot higher up then the beta video from Mikael Uponen. felt easier but still very fun climb.

first move is the only hard one. might be harder if you exclude some holds but why would you?

slopers galore

the most beautiful arete one can find. just enough holds. the most technical move I've done. deserves all the stars!!!

imo the perfect problem. so many fun moves on great rock! comitting top out, kinda scary. such a cool line!!! just superb. hard to grade due to its length. but took me more seshs then umpf and plasma låg combined. so I say 7c, to me.

Took an absolute eternity to do. Some 4 years of on & off tries. Every single beta tried. Felt impossible until it didn’t. Best lowball in Västra Götaland?

Stellar line. Absolute span limit going to the edge w/o getting right foot into the crack.

Very close to 3 stars imo. High straight away, fantastics holds and great moves. Love it!

Started w lh in small crimp pretty high up. Possible 7a+ if you can reach it. Cool straight forward crimping.

So nice!

At 182cm this isn’t 7b, not even in sub tropic conds with slippery slooper. Still fantastic! Sit start is a bit awkward tho.

Took forever. My true anti style. Did it with horrible campus beta for the 2nd move. Almost didn't snatch the jug. Happy its over with.

Did it with extreme hardcore beta. Still awesome problem.

Not sure if it was a height thing but it felt super easy. 2nd go. 1 move wonder.

The horrible mantle stops the 3 ⭐️. But fantastic climb!

With the absolute worst sesl mantle I’ve ever done 🫣

Felt super hard until I dialed the beta. So much fun to climb even if the holds a man made. They are however very comfortable lol.

Tension-y on fine holds.

The sloper was baked!

Jeeezus this one is good! Super solid rock, height and a no fall zone top out. One of the best 7a’s I’ve climbed.

Too me soft side of 7b+. But dat swinggg! 🤯

Brilliant!

Committing top out to say the least.

Somewhere between 7b+/7c imo. But with good stick and 10000 tries it felt more b+. 3 star top out!

Very close to 2 ⭐️s but the rather dull location + awkward starts stops it. Terrific moves though!

1st in the grade. Too me this might not be 7c. Did it in 1,5 session. But since most ppl here and on other platforms seem to agree I won’t rock the boat. But to me its soft and fits me like glove. Amazing climb on amazing rock. Too bad that the tree fucks it up.

Meh. Decent one move wonder. 3rd try

Beautiful

Cool one-move wonder!

Helluva first move in every way. Hard and beautiful.

Very nice one-mover! always hard to grade but with my reach it wasn’t that hard even if I’m out of shape. But well worth doing!

Had to dig alot deeper than was probably necessary

Very good climb in a very scenic enviroment. Whats not to love!?

Maybe not the hardest but my god the rock quality!!! 🤩

Magic line!

A bit unclear what is included and whats not. Sticking to the right side when topping out is what makes the grade imo.

Crimpy and reachy. Without crash pad is alot spicier then it should be lol.

I found this to be one of the best I’ve climbed! The top out is so much fun. Found myself hanging up there for a good 30 sec before committing.

Sharp crimp in the start. Not one of the better on the rock.

A very solid climb with a committing top out on slab. Might be on soft side of 7a+?

Probably on the soft side if you’re taller. Still splendid no matter the grade.

So fun! Crimp galore.

Sustained and even. Just fantastic movement throughout. Best I’ve climbed in sweden!

Alot easier then Kermit.

Might even be 6c imo.

A very pleasant problem on pebbles

Very nice holds and fun pogo to the ledge. The overhang is real!

Dynamic!

Delicate but Alot easier then Dogma. Prob 6b in Font 🤣

Had so much fun on this one!

Couldn’t start in the lowest crimp rail. Simply to long legs and could easily reach next crimp rail from sit. Fun move to lip!

Very nice climb! Quite easy though. try and stay away from the arete to the right whilsy topping. Much more fun. ;-)

Baaaaaarn door!

Took me some time to figure out not the go to the right…

Hard to grade. Bascially can u do the first move you can do the boulder. All come down to pulling on crimps

Upper 6c+ imo.

Burned flash :-(

Very cool! Soft for the grade maybe?

One move wonder

Alot harder then the other ones

Moonboard in the wild!

very nice climbing!!

might be softer then 6c+. stay on the left side makes it funner and harder

Awesome problem. Nice compression moves. No way is it 7b tho. Still one of the best in Borås.

3rd go.

Short but sweet

Hard for the grade!

Great moves!

Very neat climb! Icy top out meant bringing out the alpine knee.

Fantastic climb featuring a perfect full crimp and a slopey mono!

Very good climb. Solid roof with potential heartbreak at the end.

Did it with LH in sidepull lower down as well as both hands on horizontal crimps. Both are nice but neither is 7b.

Classic Utby boulder. Mantle was tricky.

Very close to 3 stars. Just amazing. One of the best in Borås for sure!

Soft side of 7a. Nice movement. Too bad it doesn’t top out.

Sharpest crimps in Västra götaland? Might just be. Still a good climb. Soft side of 7a+.

Borderline 2 stars. Scary to go to the top w/o spotter

Finally try before summer rain shower

Went w right herl beta. Felt quite easy. Skipped top out slab due to rain. Was told I could tick anyway ;-)

Got DAMN! Sooo good. Easier then Beach bum though.

Damned good moves on damned good rock in a damned good location.

Soft side of 7a?

First move is the grade. The rest is just pump. One the best problems i’ve climbed on. The locations, the rock quality, the moves. Spectacular!

Very nice and stiff problem.

Outstanding!

Campus

Almost 1 move wonder.

Blew a foot on first move flash attempt. 2nd go. Dynamic and spicy top

Very nice little climb. Soft side of 6c maybe...?

warm up w a little bit of spice at the end

Short, fun, easy. Very nice! All surroundling forrest has been cleared so yay!

I’d say it’s easier if your tall (182) and go a little further to the right when going to the lip. Still darn fantastic problem!

Maybe bad beta but I found South Beach easier. Font fantastic!

Can it really get any better then this? Font quality holds on a small beach by the ocean. Yay! Easier if your tall imo

Mantle mantle mantle. Season flash.

Easy side of 7a but still really fun and interesting movement.

Easier then the 6a arete next to it. Roll over sesl top out in pure font fashion.

Slopey. Hard for the grade.

Reaaaal good

Best boulder I ever climbed

Very very fun dyno to the top!

Proper hard for the grade. Top out 100% Font ;-)

Niiiice & balancy

Very fun!

Fun slab. Used my hands tho

FA

As good as it get. Perfect boulder, sharp crimps, amazing movements. Dynamic finnisj. Top notch.

Soft 6b. Nice movements and fun top out

Outstanding high ball slab.

Probably the best problem on Hestrastenen. Fantastic movement. Best elimination problem in Västra Götaland...?

Steep beautiful rock. Interesting holds that needs figuring out. Its almost perfect.

Nice compression problem

Just a great problem. A Hönö classic!

2nd go. Slipped off w right hand on flash try :-(

Truly a unique problem. Technical feet in the beginning and then just do it!

tremendous climb. very technical. feel like your on the dawn wall ;-)

campus like a mf. not the prettiest ascent (knee may have been involved). top out is seriously wierd/hard.

did it first try but had done the stand start first. if you can hold the crimps it's not really that much harder then stand start

the holds, the view <3

fantastic problem. well worth visiting only for this problem imo.

Top class problem. Involves an amazing kneebar right from the get go! Horribly approach though.

hardest 6b+ I ever climbed. rumor has it the crux hold for the left hand broke some years ago. which would explain why I found it so damn hard ;-)

really nice problem with good holds. a crux in the middle and good solid big holds at the end!

2nd go

First move is the crux. Nice moves.

Fantastic dyno. As always with dyno's grading is kinda hard. But sooo well worth doing no matter the grade!

goooood quality rock + a really fun crux move in the middle

Very nice big moves on slight overhand. really good.

Fun crack boulder-climb.

2nd go. may even be easier then 6b. well worth doing

my 1st ever 7a boulder. the holds are just terrific! It almost feels like a indoor problem. just try for yourself and you´ll love it!

Fantastic two move problem! Very stick dependent.

Fantastic problem imo. Maybe 6c+ is a bit too much or the problem just suits my style of climbing.

Really nice climb.

border line 6a imo. but since Hestrastenen is infamous for it's tough grades we'll go with 5+.

Fantastic highball in the lower grades. Great warm up!

classic

if you stick to only using the crack it's ALOT more fun!

massive dyno. soo much fun!

basically the stand start for adamantium imo. then the 6B holds up.

fantastic short but sweet problem. hard to grade though since it's just the mantleling. well worth doing!

Nice line following a nice crack. Borderline 6A imo

Sport climb-y and fun. Not often you get to boulder a dieder.

Great holds. Kinda hard to pad all the way making it scarier

Fantastic little problem imo. Might not be full 6A if your tall.

Fantastic rock quality. Campus start to small crimp and then just magical move involving a high LF

Fun & easy high ball. Great for warm ups. Excellent top out.

Awkward start but really nice line otherwise.

Really nice, short problem. Good start on crimpers followed by dyno to lip and delicate moves over said lip.

Climbed it with wet holds and damp mud on the top out making it ALOT scarier. Good warm up though.

not that hard. but the height is fun :-)

Really good beginners problem

such a fun slab! mind the enormous piece of rock that seems pretty loose, don't put to much weight on it if possible :-)

very nice arete with a nice kinda-scary top out. no way in hell this is 6a, at least not with utby standards ;-)

concur with mr NIva. not very fun when figuring out the moves but when done still worth doing. feet placement is key.

really diverse problem. the end, with a nice balance-y move is great!

Really good and hard moves. Fun big move to the top. Similar to Kraftkalas IMO

Short but very fun on tiny crimpers.

Very nice easy overhang imo. Great for beginners!

the top out is fun and slabby

Nice comitting problem. Good foot holds and fun big moves! Borderline 6a+

should a good problem! awesome rock, big dynamic move up to the lip, heel hook and sweet top out over the lip. what more can you ask for?!

nice match on small crimper, the rest is a breeze :-)

The original grade (6B) is if you exclude the big horizontal crack but that's really unnatural imo. But a very nice little climb.

Fun slab/deidre climb. Might be harder for shorter people.

If you're allowed to use the second shelf then I'm not sure 6A even holds up. But big nice dynamic moves and some height/exposure makes it fun!

Really nice, almost a slab. The start is really the crux. TIPS: Eliminate the last vertical crack and you get a much more fun last move up to big jugs ;-)

NIce one-move!

NIce Dyno.

great problem. not superhard if you've got the reach and use LH on arete.

Fantastic problem. Not a 7A imo though, at least not if LH uses the arete.

Good warm-up.

Very campus-y. Nice, short problem.

Fun moves. Note that not all holds need to be used in order to ascend.

Don't know if I did the "correct" beta but not 6B if you start with both hands in left jug and go straight up

Nice compression problem. Very smooth and sticky rock.

Nice moves on a very nice boulder!

A bit awkward start. Still nice though

top out needs cleaning, unless you use a root sticking out of the ground. stand start

Short & intense. Stick the first move and you're basically done.

Very nice problem and especially the crux move. Easy nice top out with big cracks and holds.

Highball, intense top out with great holds. crimp with RH (as seen in pic) is minimal due to breakage(?).

Wierd feet placement at start.

Could maybe have started a bit lower down "the hole". only 3-4 moves.

nice warm-up. i think top out makes it 5 instead of 4+

Mind your feet...

Pushy first move. Last dyno is incredible! Committing top-out. Super nice over all

already done SS

not really a sitstart, more like crouch start. fun long moves on slopes

Good warm up for Folke-blocket

soo much time invested in doing this one! amazing line on great quality rock.

Blew the flash due to stupidity. Found it easier then Ängsareten. Once left leg goes over the edge the problem is basically done.

Very fun climb. Diverse. If you eliminate jug with left hand just after/above arete the grade is 6a+ and even more fun!

magical place just by the water. a summer gem

nice dynamic move. not that hard. good for beginners.

Good warm up. Becomes dirty pretty fast due to overhanging trees.

I think it deservs a + because the crystal crimps are not very big making it kinda balancy. I liked it alot.

Fun traverse. Good warm up. Can be made into a longer traverse all the way round to Dvärgakungen.

MANY different beta possible. Each one with different grade. My beta: Sit start LH in crimp on left side of arete and RH on triangle hold. Shoot LH to small crimp ledge on left side of arete. RH follows right side to bowl hold. Follow arete to top-out. MAYBE easy 6B

Nice arete climb v

Really big holds and easy line. No way it's a 6a. Good warm up. Graded 5C in offical topo (http://www.crimp.se/web/topos/almenas/ALMENAS_BoulderGuide.pdf)

Kinda wierd line. Good warm up. Weird top out.

Good warm-up

Good warm up

Of of the best boulders I've climbed. Super intense and committing final move/top out. Holds are good but height + last move = 6B

2nd go and I got it. 6A according to offical topo. I agree http://www.crimp.se/web/topos/almenas/ALMENAS_BoulderGuide.pdf

really fun balance-y arete climbing.

Good warm-up on Hestrastenen

Very nice and technical climb with comitting top out.

strangly hard beginning with sharp crimps. might have had the wrong beta...

My first ever 6A boulder. :-)