Mikael Orkomies

Only the crux of the second pitch felt a bit stiff for the grade when going from under the bulge. This you can bypass though by going from above, of you wish. Nice cruising through pretty sustained pitches. Climbed the whole route two pitches at a time worth a 70 m rope.

Abseiling two first pitches is possible with a 70 m rope i.e. they are not over 35 m long. 3rd pitch is about 38 m long and abseiling with a 70 m rope required a bit of easy, but not super safe down climbing. Throughout the money pitch, which was very densely bolted (thank you!), I was thinking "here comes the crux", but always found such good stuff that it never did. Compared to for example with Judea del Frente Popular (7a) in the neighbouring Suizo sector, Negra Peste's money pitch felt very cruisy.

One short more difficult section on both harder pitches.

Was it the skin being already sensitive on the 3rd climbing day or was the rock little bit sharper than elsewhere? Rather varied journey in terms of climbing styles.

Nice one!

The longer it goes being easy, the more concerned you become of what's to come. 70 m rope was long enough for an abseil.

Instead of "somewhat spaced bolting in easy parts", I'd say "spaced bolting in general and even somewhat more spaced bolting in easy parts". With a 70 m rope, it is a good idea to finish off at the anchor of the neighbouring route (on the left), as the last meters do not really give anything much and this move allows you to rap straight down without.

2nd pitch catches your full attention.

Sweet & sustained. Would defo climb again. 😍

This one took good many tries and days. Well, in fact send go was during the second el Chorro trip to try the route. First 1/4 is brilliant overhanging tufa climbing with big holds & big, obvious moves. Well bolted & absolute treat! The next 1/4 is the crux section which is more vertical and complex. Last half is clearly easier face climbing.

Short section of 6c+. Otherwise below the grade.

Should have read the route description before starting the climb not to take the easy way out.

Easy to drift to a bit to the side of the intended route.

Aiding should be added to Ascent type options. 😀 The two crux pitches were too hard to free but possible to aid with the help of one nut placement at the beginning of the 6c+. It is hard to think of what to compare Zeppelin with in terms of ambience. 6a+, 6b+ and 6b pitches were all cool. 6b felt soft compared to the rest. Besides the few old bolts in the beginning, the route has new bolts all the way.

Very, very enjoyable climb with new school bolting... and grading. On the next day, a 6a+ pitch on Zeppelin - an old legendary route in Chorro - felt harder than any pitch on Fanatikos. This might have also been partly due to the old school bolting of Zeppelin.

Very tricky start, very powerful end.

Grisolo

Adventure climbing fell due to the moss. :)

Sustained route.

Big, rather polished, holds.

Doable in approach shoes.

Doable in approach shoes.

Aika hieno!

Herkkä!

Neidile meeldis.

Not much to tell the grandchildren about.

Adventure climbing at its best :)

Start is easier than it seems.

Very easy for the grade.

Crux at the top

Short and sweet

Crux alussa.

Felt a lot easier than the last time.

Good rest places

Pretty good jamming test

First bolt high but possible to pre-clip by climbing from the right. Otherwise nicely bolted.

Easier than I thought.

Ehkäpä 6a.

Helppo

crux at the middle

crux at the top

crux at the top

crux at the top

High step at the crux.

Great technical crimp climbing.

Brilliant crux!

One move wonder.

Very nice route!