Mikael Orkomies

Only the crux of the second pitch felt a bit stiff for the grade when going from under the bulge. This you can bypass though by going from above, of you wish. Nice cruising through pretty sustained pitches. Climbed the whole route two pitches at a time worth a 70 m rope.

Abseiling two first pitches is possible with a 70 m rope i.e. they are not over 35 m long. 3rd pitch is about 38 m long and abseiling with a 70 m rope required a bit of easy, but not super safe down climbing. Throughout the money pitch, which was very densely bolted (thank you!), I was thinking "here comes the crux", but always found such good stuff that it never did. Compared to for example with Judea del Frente Popular (7a) in the neighbouring Suizo sector, Negra Peste's money pitch felt very cruisy.

One short more difficult section on both harder pitches.

Was it the skin being already sensitive on the 3rd climbing day or was the rock little bit sharper than elsewhere? Rather varied journey in terms of climbing styles.

Nice one!

The longer it goes being easy, the more concerned you become of what's to come. 70 m rope was long enough for an abseil.

Instead of "somewhat spaced bolting in easy parts", I'd say "spaced bolting in general and even somewhat more spaced bolting in easy parts". With a 70 m rope, it is a good idea to finish off at the anchor of the neighbouring route (on the left), as the last meters do not really give anything much and this move allows you to rap straight down without.

2nd pitch catches your full attention.

Sweet & sustained. Would defo climb again. 😍

This one took good many tries and days. Well, in fact send go was during the second el Chorro trip to try the route. First 1/4 is brilliant overhanging tufa climbing with big holds & big, obvious moves. Well bolted & absolute treat! The next 1/4 is the crux section which is more vertical and complex. Last half is clearly easier face climbing.

Short section of 6c+. Otherwise below the grade.

Should have read the route description before starting the climb not to take the easy way out.

Easy to drift to a bit to the side of the intended route.

Aiding should be added to Ascent type options. 😀 The two crux pitches were too hard to free but possible to aid with the help of one nut placement at the beginning of the 6c+. It is hard to think of what to compare Zeppelin with in terms of ambience. 6a+, 6b+ and 6b pitches were all cool. 6b felt soft compared to the rest. Besides the few old bolts in the beginning, the route has new bolts all the way.

Very, very enjoyable climb with new school bolting... and grading. On the next day, a 6a+ pitch on Zeppelin - an old legendary route in Chorro - felt harder than any pitch on Fanatikos. This might have also been partly due to the old school bolting of Zeppelin.

Low ball with a small hop.

Tough start followed by a sporty traverse.

Fun!

After many years of trying, finally in the bag.

Good to have a trusted spotter.

Tricky, tricky.

Pocket + mantel skill test.

Nothing special.

One long move. Hard to say why I liked it. :)

Possible to climb both from up or down. Down is clearly more difficult.

Have a good spotter.

Went on 2nd attempt. Felt ready for the grade.

Climbed it from the right as the red arrow seems to suggest. Not a 5 in this case.

A delicate one. Finding the beta took +20 tries.

Delicate top.

Tough cookie.

Very nice technical pickle!

That was fun!

Felt easy for the grade.

Felt like doing a mantle from shoulder height. Sweet!

Fresh shoes rule!

With 🍒 on top.

Polished start feet.

Nice mantel stuff!

Nice long route. No specific crux move.

Much better than the name or appearance suggests. Zero difficult moves, endurance test is where the grade comes from. Good shit!

Not the most beautiful line but for some reason it spoke my language. Difficulties start from the lip.

This was a proper squeeze!

Nothing to write home about.

Almost run out of belief.

Really nice as a lay back instead of stemming. Possible as a jam as well.

Dunno whether starting from the top slopers was kosher.

Very nice route. 👌

Lowball hooking action!

Cool route. Didn't believe first...

Didn't start from the right though...

Very tricky start, very powerful end.

Grisolo

Adventure climbing fell due to the moss. :)

Great roof climb with a tricky exit

Finger crack.

Very fine face climb.

Fun corner climb with a whaly mantle.

Someone bolted a Beastmaker to the start? Followed by unusual topout.

Crimp master 3000.

Cool finger pockets!

Incredible! Pure gold.

Start felt bad before figuring out the beta.

One move wonder.

Beautiful line, scary top.

😍

Very cool, balancy route.

Sustained route.

Big, rather polished, holds.

One dyno move and its in the 🎒.

Doable in approach shoes.

Doable in approach shoes.

Aika hieno!

Herkkä!

Neidile meeldis.

Not much to tell the grandchildren about.

Adventure climbing at its best :)

Start is easier than it seems.

Very easy for the grade.

Beauty!

In the beginning the pine tree behind the back feels intimidating but when you get going it doesn't really matter.

Nice little climb.

Took a few tries.

Fine climb.

Easy compared to general Å grade.

Short stuff.

With a crimp in the corner instead of a dyno this felt rather tough for the grade.

Visually appealing but as a climb it wasn't so special.

Surely needs downgrading.

Have to use imagination to spot any holds on this one - yet it went on the first go.

Scarier than the other Zen slabs

I'd like to see how 160 cm tall climbers approach this problem.

Meh

Swing control problem

Short

Crux at the top

Short and sweet

Crux alussa.

Felt a lot easier than the last time.

Good rest places

Pretty good jamming test

First bolt high but possible to pre-clip by climbing from the right. Otherwise nicely bolted.

Easier than I thought.

Ehkäpä 6a.

Helppo

crux at the middle

crux at the top

crux at the top

crux at the top

High step at the crux.

Second side is a lot easier.

The start is not so relevant.

Felt easy this time.

Technical little bugger.

Sit start or nothing!

This route is likely to change a little over the years as the rock is a bit crumbly.