Helge Øystein Maakestad

I climbed to the midway bivouac hut (it took 8 hours) and returned. I did not have any information on the route and was alone.

No7+. Hankø is a beautiful sport crag in eastern Norway, by the sea.

No7+

Aelvnes is a sport crag west of sthlm.

Skevik - a classical sport crag east of sthlm.

The "right version": There are two versions - a left version sharing some holds with "Snøvit 7a", and a right version (right of the arete). The left version is 7a or 7a+, the right version is hard - 7b+.

No7+. Løkenhavna is a sport crag west of Oslo.

No7+

No7+/8-

No7+

no7

No7+

No7+

No7+

Siurana is a crag to the west of Barcelona.

Railay beach and Tonsai is a sport crag by the sea in south Thailand.

Orpierre is a sport crag 100 km south of Grenoble.

2'nd try.

2'nd try.

Ceuse is a sport crag 100 km south of Grenoble.

4'th try.

Not 7a+.

No8-/8. Hauktjern is a sport crag in eastern Oslo.

Verdon is one of the most classical multi pitch crags from the 1980s and this is one of the most classical routes: 4 pitches. 1) 6b+, 2) 6c, 3) 7a+, 4) 7a. Beautiful and exposed.

We aided the bolt ladder which is climbed free at 7b+. Reputed to be "one of the most exposed 6c+ routes in France"

2'nd try.

Chateauvert is a sport crag east of Marseille.

A classical route.

In the guidebook it is graded "f7c+/8a".

Unclimbed? The bolts were new. Was said by the locals to be 7a+. 7c or 7c+ more likely. Espace Comboire is a small crag in Grenoble and even 7a routes are hard for the grade. It is located by the Isere river.

2nd try.

+30 reps. Warm up route in Cascade. 2nd try.

A vertical bouldery route on the main wall of the crag.

+30 reps. Warm up route in Cascade.

Morpho. The crux is to pull on a pocket through an overhanging bulge with poor footholds. Malsaire is a small limestone crag betwen Geneva and Chamonix.

I fell on the 6c-climbing in the top on the flash-attempt. 3rd try. For tall people (190cm +) there is a heel hook for the left foot on the crux. This makes the crux much easier. I originally downgraded the route to 7b+ but the grade seems to have settled at 7c. The original grade was 7c+. Ørnberget is a classical sport crag in sthlm.

A well protected multi pitch route on bolts. 6 pitches, everything onsight. The crag is located by the Arve river, a tributary to the Rhone river.

2nd try.

2nd try.

+30 reps.

2nd try.

Massone is a classical sport crag in Arco, Italy.

5 pitches 6b to 7a. All pitches onsight. Arco is a crag in Garda, two hours drive from Milan in Italy.

A steep and run out route on bolts - you take a long fall if you fall at the crux.

2nd try. Skevik is a popular sport crag south of Stockholm. Routes in the range 5a-8a.

Frankenjura is a sport crag close to Nurnberg in Germany.

+50 reps. Warm up route at Ørnberget.

+50 reps.

+50 reps.

+50 reps.

Dødskalleberget is a crag to the south of sthlm.

+30 reps.

+30 repeats. warm up route at Ørnberget - a classical sport crag south of Sthlm.

No 7+/8-. +20 reps, warm up route.

No7+

No8-

No8-

No8-/8. 2nd try. Sørkedalen - a beautiful sport crag in west Oslo.

No8-

No8-

No8-/8. In the "2021 Kolsås climbing club guide book" it is claimed this route was first ascended by Kolsrud in 1992. I climbed it in 1990 - maybe there is a mistake in the guide - ask Kolsrud. I heard from Tor Rustad that Kolsrud had climbed it when I did it.

No8. Warm up route at Løkenhavna.

No8/8+. Vertical crimp route. I fell above the crux on the flash attempt. This route and Hjallarbrui (7c) at the same crag were the hardest sport routes in Norway in the 80s prior to the ascent of Stive Dempere (8a+) at Damtjern in 1986. Toprope.

No8+. A classical route - overhang on "big" holds. I flashed the route on a toprope to above the final overhang. The sport crag Løkenhavna was developed in the period 1990-1992 and is famous because of some 8b-routes put up in the beginning of the 90s.

No8-/8. +30 reps, warm up route at Løkenhavna.

No7/7+.

I flashed to the top slab. Toprope ascent.

7a+ in guide.

Sector "La Plage" - right of "Scorpion".

No7+. A well protected trad route. +50 reps. Warm up route.

No7/7+. Damtjern is probably the most classical sport crag in the Oslo area.

No8. 7b+ for tall people (190cm +). A classical route.

I believe I spent 10 days on this route on a top rope in 1989 and was able to do it with one rest. For me it felt harder than "Marathon 8b" since I spent more time doing the moves, but others may disagree about this.

No8-. A classical route.

Closed project: The "Stive Dempere f8a+" crux into another crux (top crux of "Draumkvedet f8c") with no good rest in between: This is f8b/b+.

No7+/8-. 2nd try. Hard.

No8-/8. 2nd ascent.

No7+/8-. 2nd try. Fell at the last bolt on the onsight attempt.

No8+. 2nd ascent. A Damtjern-classic - boulder on thin crimps. 8a or 8a+.

Topptau - tynt og teknisk.

No8-/8. Fell above the crux on the flash attempt. 2nd try. A classical route. Hellerud is a crag in central Oslo.

No7/7+.

No7+. 2nd try.

No7+/8-.

No?. Morpho, a boulder on rope. The crux is harder than the crux on "Marathon F8b" (believed to be Norway's first F8b) and the top crux of "Draumkvedet 8c". Note: It is forbidden to dyno and to use holds on "Baker for smed" and "Sikre perioder". First ascent: summer 1989. Grade: Unknown. If you are able to do the route without the far right ledge, please post an uncut video of the ascent. It would be interesting to see your beta.

No8-.

No7+/8-. A classical route, 2'nd try.

No7+

No8/8+. A steep route on slopers and sidepulls.

No7+/8-

No8-/8

No7

No8-. I did not use traditional protection and the route was "run out". A classical route.

No?. 9th repeat? Hardest route in Norway for 2 years and one of the most classical sport-routes in Norway. A bouldery route with a 7C+ boulder-crux.

No7+/8-

No7+/8-

Buoux is one of the most classical sport crags in the history of sport climbing.

2nd try.

Sector "La Plage".

No7+. 2nd try.

No7

No8-/8. 1'st or 2'nd ascent? 2'nd try. The hardest route in Øvre Sydstup. People have climbed trad and sport in Kolsås since 1904 - it is the oldest such crag in Norway. In the "2021 Kolsås guide book" this route is referred to as "Elektrodynamikk 7b/b+" - a route climbed by Tor Rustad. The route "Elektrodynamikk" is a route at the boulder area "Høybakktraversen" - there appears to be a mistake in the guide. I remember Ulf Geir Hansen referring to this route as an "open project" in 1988 - ask Hansen about the identity of the first ascender.

No7

No7

No6+. A well protected trad route.

No7+/8-. Top rope flash.

trad.

No7. +100 reps. Warm down route.

No8-. A vertical bouldery route. Top rope flash. Location: Den skjulte veggen.

No8-. +40 reps, warm up route.

No7+. 2nd try.

No7+. +50 reps, warm up route. 2nd try.

A loose and traditionally protected big wall (1000 meters). We climbed 500 meters but did not find the midway bivouac ledge in the darkess. We tried to spend the night sleeping hanging from the ropes, but It was raining and the temperature dropped. For this reason we had no choice but to abort the climb and downclimb. We tried but failed.

No7+

No7+/8-. Uncertain date. Grade: Fr 7a+ or 7b.

No8-/8. A bouldery route.

No8-. 2nd try.

No7+/8-. A poorly protected and technically diffcult trad route.

No8-/8. A classical route on bolts. An overhanging boulder on thin crimps and sidepulls. My first 7b/b+ and one of the harder routes in Øvre Sydstup. Someone referred to this as an "open project" when I climbed it in 1987 - who knows?

5 pitches on natural protection: No 6+/7+/7-/7+/7-. All pitches onsight except the upper 7+ pitch. The first 7+ pitch was poorly protected in 1987.

A classical 6+ route. The route has been "renamed" - in the "2021 Kolsås climbing club guide" the new name is "Psykiske lindringer". The route is scary and the original name "mental health issues" is because of this.

A naturally protected vertical crack.

Traditional. A sparsely protected slab-route. You need "running belay" to avoid ground fall on the crux. The crux is at the top of the route. Utby is close to Gøteborg, Sweden.

6 pitch well protected route on natural protection.

No7. A well protected dihedral.

No7. A well protected vertical crack.

No7-/7. Traditional, not so well protected. + 20 repeats.

No7. Trad. Sparsely protected slab route - a long fall onto a ledge from the crux. If you fall you break something; an ancle or something worse. Note: Forbidden to use the crack on "Bloodway" for protection. Protected by a small rp behind a flake.

A well protected trad route.

No7-. An exposed but well protected trad route.

First 6+ in Norway - first climbed by U. G. Hansen. (from 1969?). A classical and well protected trad route.

trad.

No6+. 2 pitches, traditional protection. A classical 6+ route. An exposed vertical jamming and lay back crack. The name "Nervous breakdown" is because the route is exposed and scary.

No6+. A well protected trad route.

A classical route, one of the first grade 6 routes in Norway.

A well protected trad route.

trad.

A well protected trad route. One of the first grade 5 routes in Norway.