Jake Croft

Crimp broke apparently, felt quite hard to me but I was also very tired

Wow! Psyched to be in the sport climbing mode again! Either all this training paid off or this one is soft or something.... felt hard but maybe not fucking limit? Either way, very psyched to work from home and take this down on a perfect sunny spring day :)

My return to sport climbing... So feckin poomped

2nd try, soooo sore and so much complaining today from me. Nice rainy day with adam katrin and martin

Like a mini black eagle, for the people!

No way 8A, did the stand then 2nd go from start. Dope boulder though and the right heel hook beta for the first move is like shoshaloza for the weak. Good end to a day of trials and cowardice

Some enjoy the experience of figuring out the beta for themselves but I prefer to have Will pound me with the super soaker. He is the brains, I am the body. Jump to the jug from the kneebar? Hell ya I'll do that no questions asked, swooooop. First flash of the grade 👉👌

Couldn't do it in 2016, became obsessed, sent simulators of it countless times and came prepared. Took 3 tries on the first morning of the trip, such an amazing feeling. Also yes, I'm logging it as 8A+ even though it's easy I don't give a damn Scott Noy and your new book full of downgraded classics. I still own the old book and I'll take my vacation grades thank you very much 🤠

FA, Bird Violence! Sick! Actually ended up being easier than I expected when I did it. Maybe a forced line but still pretty cool.

Tricky top part! Exciting! Good way to end the day

Not a real flash, felt some holds and positions on the way down... But nice one!

Good one! I got surprisingly pumped

One of my favorites at the crag and first DWS of the day... I love this shit! Quite easy for 6c+...

Got all pumped from getting out of the harness and keeping my feet dry at the start then did a desperate move to the loose block... good one though! Grade probably soft

So goood!!!

After a rainstorm!

Maybe FA, maybe not

Would like to take the 7c flash, but... Soooooft

So fun! 2nd go

Fun

Worlds hardest bulge

Cool, hard

Wrong date. 2nd ascent in the rain! Nice one Daniel.

Wrong date

Surely only 7B+ if you top it out. Top out is the crux. I did not top out

3rd go, easy but nice. Or maybe I climbed an easier variation? Heel toe in big jug, big cross right, left to the nice slopey jug

Beautiful line by the sea, nice crimping. Jumped to lip from match on the sidepull

No warmup, started from stacked pad on obvious hold. Very easy this way but siiiiiiiiick line absolutely worth climbing. Almost blew the easy topout tho...

So sick, double dyno!

3rd try

2nd go

Better line than epicentrum imo! Pretty tired end of the day, 3rd go

2nd go. Wrong date. Sometime in march

Wrong date, did it sometime this month

Beauty

Cool heel hook. Sent during a micro snow hail storm, top a bit wet

Snow ascent

Such a good line! Night send

thought it was sandbagged but then it turns out that's cause it's a lot harder when it's humid and 20 degrees than when it's dry and 1 degree. sick problem! good night sesh!

Better than voodoo I thought! from the stand then from the low, which was a real desperate mantle that time...

1st go (already flashed stand). Adds some heinous shitty moves to a good problem!

Such a good boulder. squeezing, pinches, slopers, beautiful pink stone. felt really hard for 7C to me until I discovered the ~soft choss~ beta

felt pretty easy, I thought it was a 6B so I warmed up on it and it felt 6B

hard for me, took a lot more tries than the rest of the 7A's I rampaged today

hard start, nice holds. went quick

2nd go soft. ahgggg blew the flash like an idiot, let my foot slip!

Cool jump! 3rd go

Sweet highball!

Sick! Had my eyes on this one for awhile, comprises everything I love. Worked out the beta last weekend with one pad, returned this weekend with two despite high chances of getting wet. Sometimes weather optimism pays off! Good to finally send something hard again... never sport climbing again

Beautiful boulder, perfection! Kinda funny it's basically in someone's backyard... returned for night swoopage with Jon, got lucky and it was dry despite rain earlier in the day

Pristine slab. Couldn't do it in the summer haha! Returned when it wasn't 30 degrees and found I could do it without much trouble!

Ending the day with a flash! Super easy compared to glenn som van... topped out to view of the sun setting over a golden ocean. Beautiful

Beautiful

Hard! Sweet wide compression! Perfect black stone... was giving me trouble then rested, pulled on from bottom and did the end moves for the first time. bam

Warmup, gave me a bit of trouble. Cold and windy!

Nice mini hop

beautiful sloper rail, so nice!!!

2nd go

sitstart takes away stars. first go soft! before the back pain returned...

What a session, Adam only brought one pad to midnight molndal, we got lost trying to find korridorren, then the topout to this was damp and covered in leaves and I almost ate it completely sideways off the top....

Wrong date

kneebars and squeezing, no bullshit crimps! Good night sesh with martin, andrea, and jocke

Cool one. strenuous lay backs. 2 toprope laps

Nice day with ylva

So good!!! Perfect crimps on a beautiful boulder. Feels alpine! Kinda easy

Fun! End of the day jaunt

One of the strangest moves I've done, heinous gaston bumping while balancing on my left palm. In a lot of pain at this point of the day.

So tired, and having weird old person back pain.... but managed to send the rig anyways. My body is becoming useless

Just had to get the good part of the crimp for it to go... This problem is rad!!!

2nd go. Nice, squeezy!

Finally stopped punting! And it felt easy today too haha... good end to an "artificial daytime" session with Adam and Ylva

nubbins and slopes

One hard move! Left heel hook. Grabbed the hold with 1 finger and crawled my way up on the 100th try

Lol, actually fun moves despite the lowness. Good session with Patrik och Adam

2nd go. Sick slopers!!!

Little spooky, kinda dabbed the tree on the topout too... Feelin weak today

Good one! Painful right crimp with the mangled finger... And not an easy warmup...

Nice crimps. One of the only dry things in this whole damn place! Good to be bouldering again

3rd go? felt pretty easy. A good nubbin' problem. session started out real good today and 15 minutes later all my power was gone. Still got in climbing after the rain though! The haters said it would be wet

Love roofs. One and done

Nice crimps, cool moves, kinda sketch on the top out. good to be bouldering again

Kinda hard for an easy problem

Nice one!

meh

5 tries. Punted after the crux a couple times, it's not over til it's over. Felt like shit all day, climbing hurt

2nd go. Got scared of the tree first time. Should be renamed the backscratcher! Nice moves though. Pretty soft, would be even softer if you used the tree as a hold ;)

Dope! Pretty chill except for where it gets thin for a sec and the feet get bad. 2nd try

So fucking good... Granite crack climbing at it's finest.

Harder than it looks

Sporty feeling. Fun!

Short but nice crack

Sick rig. nice pump climbing on cool black stone, dope boulder problem, technical finish. psyched! waited for the right moment, like daniel-san. Total 12 attempts, 3 sessions

Blew the flash a year ago on a bouldering trip when I had no endurance. 2nd go, a year later. Really good one! Nice granite edges on an overhanging face, nice and long, what more do you want?

2nd go soOoOft. ;) Wild route, technical smearing! Dogged up as a warm up and thought how is this a 5.13a and then next go I was super pumped at the end and realized "oh, that's why". sent as the sun was setting. Only thing that takes away from this one is having to aid to get to the start...

Granite tufa thing??? wtf??? Damn this thing is fun!

So damn good!!! Long, sustained, with a spectacular finish. One of the best. So psyched to finally make it to Hylte and find it was better than I imagined... 3rd attempt, super hot and sweaty! Hot ham hands

Dang, hard to onsight when you're weighed down by the weeks cinnamon buns/ I really fooked up and upclimbed and downclimbed harder beta in 1 part 5 times and got me self real friggin pumped before grabbing a draw to clip.... 2nd go soft though

Bit adventurous. Cool moves at start, but quite contrived... Lots of lichen and loose feeling stuff up top

So rad. Kind of a punt fest for me... wen't from thinking it would go first session to a loooooot of punting, pumping out, foot slips, etc, can't even do it... finally went down :) One of the best!

Wish it wasn't so short! Fun moves. Started raining as I was finishing it

Don't know why this gets its own name. Continued upwards

Good warm up

Continued upwards, if you don't you're missing out

Good long route

BP on a rope. Kinda hard actually

So good! Beautiful line. Harder to clean than to climb...

fell on the last move on the flash attempt... missed the good part of the hold. damn! 2nd go soft ;) nice crescendo of a route

Super tricky balancey top part! first go up felt way sandbagged, sent it and it felt way soft

Super good one! 2nd go

funky stem to steeper holds! out of it, almost forgot to clip the last bolt until I realized I was 15 feet run out and down climbed to back it

Funky, surprisingly pumpy Clipped the anchors and kept on goin

Nice, style change. Doesn't add too much difficulty but I love when a route goes to the top! Think I fell on orgasm a year or so ago when I came so not a flash.

Sooooo fucking good. Best I've done I Gothenburg so far. 3rd go. Good day with Anthony and Nicho, the boys are getting close!

2nd go soft. nice crimping!

Sick roof! 4th try

kneebar, kneebar, kneebar!

So fun! awesome hand crack!

fun, long. many fingerlocks. Happy to be crack climbing again!!!

Mega pitch!

Best one at the crag

Speed round

soft

2nd go. Crimpy! Just before the rain came and the midsummer partying and dancing and nudity and sauna and... etc

Date unknown

Super good! Nice bouldery ending!

Not bad

Nice one! On you nonstop for the first half. 2nd try

Such a good route, big throw at end! pretty tired, instantly pumped but still hung on for the onsight

Hard start then eases up

Sweet one! Just a boulder problem though. 2nd try

I dont remember doing a dyno this big on 5+ since.... well ever haha!

Nice stone

Kinda hard for the grade, or very hot out

Woke up sick today, bleh. Nice time though, a little sunburnt but good swim in the ocean!

Good 'ol BP on a rope

Nice one. 3rd go. Adam got so damn close!

called "torped" on gbo bouldering. Kinda crappy start holds, fun little hop to lip!

Beautiful rock, fun moves! Nice line. So damn sweaty...

Not too much to say about this one

Fuck that topout when your alone with one pad... way harder than it looks for some reason. Finally sucked it up and did it. Nice rock!!!

Fucking sweet. such a good problem, right next to the sea.... after falling trying to top it out alone over one small pad 3 times another crew rolled in and I was able to muster the confidence for the heinous topout. Also who knew a ferry was an aircraft carrier for cars? Not I

slippy slappy slopes

first boulder on hönö!

crimpy. sweet jump to lip though! don't think the 1 pad was under me...

So good! surprise send

Perfect boulder. First go of the day. Felt surprisingly easy...

Can't believe how much the jug flexed under my weight. Also sooooooft

2nd go. Fuck!!! so close to flash

Sweet! crimp enduro

Great problem! Consolation send after my legs were too tired for summer girl. Pretty solid day! For a trad climbing trip I've sent a surprising number of hard boulders....

The hardest part about this one is figuring out which line is which from the shitty topos...

Nice one! rest day from the crack climbing...

End of the day, goddamn was I tired

summer heat eeeewww. my beta was trash too. this place is dooooope!

No pad ascent after trad climbing. Last move is a bit tricky. Neat!

Nice one! Night send

Psyched! Perfect boulder. Hot day, maybe 23 C. Punted off the last move a bunch after making Christopher listen to excuses then managed to put it down by not looking at the hold you jump to at the end beforehand and just going for it. Dope. Off to Göteborg!

Psyched! jetlagged, no sleep, still sore from climbing 36 hours ago in Tucson but it went down in my first 6 hours of being in stockholm. Got super close on freak gasoline after so not a bad way to start the trip

according to Christopher the 2nd most contrived line in stockholm

Happy that the paths cleared and I could bike here again before leaving Sweden! Really nice slopers on this one. Felt hard my first two sessions but came together and went down pretty easily on the third one, making it hard to grade correctly

Rocklands reference? One of the best I've done in Uppsala! Rad! No snow on top either which was nice. 2nd go, blew the flash :'(

Fucking heinous first move. Feels pretty cool though. Way harder than any other 7A i've done in focksta, and felt harder than many 7Bs as well...

Perfection. one of the best boulders around.

Classic. Feeling so out of it and somehow fell off to the right and missed the pads on my first go, then did it 2nd

So good. tall black slab with perfect landing, whats to fear? Stephen took a fun sideways digger then sent it next go like a boss

Perfect boulder problem. 3rd day on, didnt think it would go and gave up then a massage from James gave me power and it went down easy

Loved this one. Nighttime damp highball, kinda cut feet at the end like a hero. or at least thats how it felt. probably just looked like a sketchball

Night send, fucking exhausted

painful. but kinda cool

Nice one! crimp jumpin!

wow, thrutch fest. kinda embarassing

haha love it!

Sooooft 2nd go. cool feature though, wish it was bigger.

Awesome last move lockoff standing up on heel. Crimpin!

Kindof a turd

cool rock. slickfoot

Pure line, Classique! Kinda feel like a badass mofo hanging off the top jug

5 man train!

Honestly not sure if we did the right line, kindof a mess of many options and the german book was hard to read

Spooky night send. stepped in the wetness before topping out :0

Night send, figured out the beta for the crew cause we was flailin on da start

semi hand jam, heel hook, crimping, nice nice. Took more trying than expected though

Left hand crimp, right hand jug. 2nd go yo

Unnecessary jump beta

Dry!

Struggle bus for some reason. RAIN RAIN RAIN, well at least this was dry!

Fridge compression in fridgelike temperatures

shenanigans. Luke right hammy hurt so he climbed it feet first

Better ending than super nova. Didn't want to stop climbing for the day, but too tired to keep trying neverending pt 2. Sooooooft

Last day best day! Didn't know if the conditions or the finicky heel hook would allow, but super psyched to finish this one on the last day of the trip. Boosh!

Wet wet wet

:)

One of the best of the grade, so sick. Had to dry this sopping thing after the rain, but worth it

Not gonna lie I thought I was slipping off the top and was (not so?) secretly a bit freaked out. Mega!

Techy techy classic... :)

Last problem of the first day in magic. Felt soft, but its totally my style so probably solid. Too bad its a drop off

So psyched! All that I love. Followed the flash train behind conductor Luke

A bit spooky but lots of pads! It was nice to see Derw fall off the last move and survive to know I could really go for it. Favorite from the trip maybe? 2nd try

First boulder in magic!!!

One of those sessions where everyone sends :) After falling off the end 3 times in the rain last time I was sure it would go down but not super rested this time and it was definitely a fight. Maybe soft for 8A or maybe just my style?

Thought it would go down quick but the final 6B move bucked me off more times than I'd like to admit... kinda hard after all that climbing! Thought the movement flowed real nicely on this one. Best climb at the sector in my opinion

Jumped off instead of topping out first time. A bit mossy to commit to the easy top out with no spotter or pad for the bad landing

Tired, end of day. not a bad little low ball

Harder then I expected, should have put on climbing shoes

Psyched to find and clean a nice one within biking distance of my house!

3rd day on tired... Very nice problem in a cool hallway though :)

Kinda scary fall potential, but good problem

Night sesh send. Tired at the end of the day

Tried it a bit on a tired day, came back and put it down first go of the day. Nice long problem, good drop knee move. Pretty fu for a traverse!

Nice long problem. Headlamp flash, despite bad beta and exhaustion!

Nice blocky pinches, cool down send by headlamp

Sweet movement. Quickly put it together to punting on one of the final bumps, realized I was going to the wrong part of the hold, punted once more, then put it down by headlamp. Big span! Maybe 7C?

Really close on the flash, then quick negative progress after rapid fire attempts, then put it together. Nice one!

Perfect angle on right arete

good warm up

Nice one! Big span. Very tired, and had to fight for the mantle. Mantles are hard.

couldn't catch the sloper at the end until I found a higher foot. nice one!

2nd try

Fun move! jump beta!

Good block on nice rock!